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Old 01-20-2017, 09:15 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Yes, they're basically the same as the cook top, with the oven below. And, from what I recall, the oven capacity is larger than the one offered by Escape. Question - is Reace just leaving a cutout for it, or is he installing it for you? I would assume you have to install it, no?
Not sure on comparative oven sizes, but we did check out the Dickinson against the pans we would use, and it is plenty big. Bigger than our BBQ which we have been using as an oven.

Reace is really doing nothing for it, as I will be completely rebuilding the galley, and will install the range then.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:53 AM   #42
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The 3/8 flare fitting reduces to a 1/4" male fitting. This then connects to another intermediate 1/4" male-female connector. So I replaced the intermediate connector with the 1/4" elbow and then reinstalled the 3/8" flare fitting. I was able to get the elbow from Lowes off the shelf, so it shouldn't be a big deal to wait and see what I'm talking about.
Thanks! I took a look at the stovetop and see exactly what you are talking about. I know what I need now but unfortunately the Home Depot by work was out of stock. I'll try another store and might start on it this afternoon.
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:12 AM   #43
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Thanks! I took a look at the stovetop and see exactly what you are talking about. I know what I need now but unfortunately the Home Depot by work was out of stock. I'll try another store and might start on it this afternoon.
Not directed at you specifically, but wanted to spring-board another thing.

When I said I bent the copper tubing I want to make sure that it's known I used a pipe bender. There are two types: a wrench type bender with grooves and angle scale and sleeve springs that allow you to do it by hand. I used the springs and you can get a set at HD or Lowes for about $10. If you don't use a proper bender you run the very likely risk of kinking the pipe.
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:20 AM   #44
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If you don't use a proper bender you run the very likely risk of kinking the pipe.
Good message in making others aware of proper procedure. I would hope anyone attempting work like this is well aware of the process and tools needed, like tube cutters, pipe benders, and a flaring tool. A joint check with soapy water after install is needed too.

Another consideration is that the only connection allowed inside an RV is the one at the appliance. No splicing of the tubing allowed.
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Old 01-21-2017, 09:28 AM   #45
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Good message in making others aware of proper procedure. I would hope anyone attempting work like this is well aware of the process and tools needed, like tube cutters, pipe benders, and a flaring tool. A joint check with soapy water after install is needed too.

Another consideration is that the only connection allowed inside an RV is the one at the appliance. No splicing of the tubing allowed.
Also, I used teflon tape for my fittings, but used the yellow, gas-specific teflon tape. Do not use anything on the flare end of the flare-fitting.

I used kids bubbles and indeed found a leak at my flare joint and was able to correct it. I also shut-up the trailer with the drawers removed to give the propane detector a chance to sniff any gas too. Seems to be a-okay so far.
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:11 PM   #46
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Thanks guys. I should have everything I need. Found the fitting I think will work too thanks to Mesa's guidance. WATTS LFA-739 street elbow- 1/4" MIP x 1/4" FIP
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:24 PM   #47
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since we are on the subject of stoves and ovens..possibly a dumb question but does the pilot light on the Escape Stove/oven option shut off the gas/propane if the pilot light goes out like appliances in the home..and for that matter any other appliance (furnace/fridge) that uses gas/propane and has a pilot light?
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:29 PM   #48
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I do not think there is any pilot light, but instead there is the piezo ignition for the stove, water heater, refrigerator, furnace. The oven is manual light.
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Old 01-21-2017, 04:52 PM   #49
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Thanks guys. I should have everything I need. Found the fitting I think will work too thanks to Mesa's guidance. WATTS LFA-739 street elbow- 1/4" MIP x 1/4" FIP
Got the stove into the counter but this fitting is actually too big. Going to have to make a run to HD to figure this out. Maybe 3/16"?
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Old 01-21-2017, 05:55 PM   #50
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Most appliances use 1/4" NPT threads, don't they?
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Old 01-21-2017, 07:39 PM   #51
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Most appliances use 1/4" NPT threads, don't they?
That's what I was thinking, wrong threads....
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:11 PM   #52
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.... does the pilot light on the Escape Stove/oven option shut off the gas/propane if the pilot light goes out like appliances in the home..and for that matter any other appliance (furnace/fridge) that uses gas/propane and has a pilot light?
No, typical RV style stoves have no pilot.

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I do not think there is any pilot light, but instead there is the piezo ignition for the stove, water heater, refrigerator, furnace. The oven is manual light.
Correct. A piezo ignition for the burners, match light for the oven. No piezo if it's cook top only.

That's one of the things I love about the Dickinson cook top. No more lighters or matches.
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Old 01-21-2017, 08:50 PM   #53
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The ETI supplied optional oven has a pilot light. When using the oven, you manually light the pilot, then you set the temperature. The pilot ignites the oven burner as needed while the oven is in use. When you turn off the oven, the pilot is turned off. It's not like home ovens, where the pilot stays on even when the oven is off.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:37 PM   #54
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That's what I was thinking, wrong threads....
Here is what I ended up using. Removed the intermediate fitting supplied with the stove as Mesa did. Used a 1/8" MIP x 1-1/2" nipple and then a 1/8" FIP female pipe elbow and then put the supplied flare fitting back on. My arrangement just barely cleared the drawer. A 1-1/4" nipple would have been perfect but they didn't have one.
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:45 PM   #55
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Cooktop is done. I ended up going as far right as possible against the divider to maximize space between the sink and cooktop and better align the high output burner under the range hood above. Fought the propane line in the limited space but all in all it came out perfect without having to modify the drawer. Thanks to Rbryan4 and Mesa for forging the way!
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:51 PM   #56
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With flush cutting board infill piece
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Old 01-21-2017, 10:55 PM   #57
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Really close tolerance on the drawer to the gas line. 1-1/4" nipple would have helped.
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:23 PM   #58
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Really close tolerance on the drawer to the gas line. 1-1/4" nipple would have helped.
Looks Great!
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Old 01-21-2017, 11:25 PM   #59
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Nice work Dave. I would probably shave off a little bit of height on that drawer just to make sure it never hits the fitting and potentially causes a leak.
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:07 AM   #60
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another option

Somewhat related to this stove thread - I loved the Dickinson stove but didn't need/want that much burner power in my Scamp 13, so I went with a "SMEV PI8022US 2-Burner". It sits flush with the counter when not in use, and the quality is way better than my old original stove. Its stainless and thermocouple-protected. I think it was a bit over $300 as a scratch-and-dent special on Ebay. Oliver uses these. Just mentioning it as an option; we are very pleased with ours.
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