Nova Kool RFU 8320 Refrigerator Installation - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-03-2014, 04:27 PM   #21
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If this is a 2013 trailer should it not still be under warranty ? If so, would the logical step be to get it looked at diagnosed and repaired under warranty ? Jumping to the conclusion that a retro fit to another fridge that hasn't even been tested seems a bit harsh.
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
According to the Nova Kool web site you'll use 125A a day (5.2x24). Using Vancouver BC for a location, an online calculator says you need 357 watts worth of panels. The 2 6v batteries will just manage.
This model shuts off when it reaches temperature then runs at about 50% duty cycle at normal ambient temps..longer when it gets hot. You must have it confused with another model..
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:15 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by dave macrae View Post
If this is a 2013 trailer should it not still be under warranty ? If so, would the logical step be to get it looked at diagnosed and repaired under warranty ? Jumping to the conclusion that a retro fit to another fridge that hasn't even been tested seems a bit harsh.
It is a 2012 model and I'm sure you'll get over it!..
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Old 11-03-2014, 05:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by TRF18 View Post
We have a 2013 Escape 19 with the Dometic RML 8551, 6.7 cu ft. refrigerator. Worked well on AC prior to trip & when I returned from the trip. No access to AC during the trip. Set up the trailer at my campsite & set to propane, could hear propane burning well, no error messages from fridge electric panel. Just wouldn't cool. Has been "marginal" on propane in the past but this time, I may as well have had the door open - it was colder outside than in the fridge!
Sorry to not be clear . This was the post my response was to.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:33 PM   #25
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Hopefully I'm wrong on the power usage, 125A would put it out of my reach. They make no mention of it shutting itself down, just to multiply their Amperage spec by 24. It's down by the bottom. It'll be interesting to see what your bench testing reveals, hoping for the best.

http://www.novakool.com/products/two...al2013_001.pdf
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
They make no mention of it shutting itself down, just to multiply their Amperage spec by 24. It's down by the bottom...
http://www.novakool.com/products/two...al2013_001.pdf
What that page says at the bottom is this:
Quote:
*Note: The amperage listed is while the unit is running. To determine 24hr consumption calculate the run time for 24hrs and multiply
this by the listed amperage.
If the unit is running 50% of the time, then the "run time for 24hrs" is only 12 hours; multiply that by the "listed amperage" of 5.2A, and you get 62.4 amp-hours (Ah).

This part of the note at the bottom is misleading:
Quote:
Listed amperage will change with ambient temperature and unit door openings.
It should say that run time (not listed amperage) depends on conditions.
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:48 PM   #27
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Hopefully I'm wrong on the power usage, 125A would put it out of my reach. They make no mention of it shutting itself down, just to multiply their Amperage spec by 24. It's down by the bottom. It'll be interesting to see what your bench testing reveals, hoping for the best.

http://www.novakool.com/products/two...al2013_001.pdf
"calculate the run time for 24hrs and multiply this by..." so not (<draw> x 24), but (<draw> x 24 x <duty cycle>). The duty cycle will depend on the amount of insulation, ambient temperature, how often you open the door, etc...

In a hypothetical fridge with perfect insulation (keeping perfectly spherical cow fragments cold), the compressor would run until the desired temperature was achieved and then shut off until somebody opened the door. The duty cycle is the percentage of the time that the compressor has to run to account for heat infiltration through the insulation.

(This is assuming that the compressor is either on or off. It's also possible to design a system that runs at different power levels, but the formula provided suggests this isn't the case for these fridges. Talking hypothetically, you might achieve a system that runs at exactly the right power level to compensate for heat coming through the insulation, and then kicks up the power to achieve the desired temperature after somebody opens the door.)
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Old 11-03-2014, 06:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by dbailey View Post
(This is assuming that the compressor is either on or off. It's also possible to design a system that runs at different power levels, but the formula provided suggests this isn't the case for these fridges. Talking hypothetically, you might achieve a system that runs at exactly the right power level to compensate for heat coming through the insulation, and then kicks up the power to achieve the desired temperature after somebody opens the door.)
I agree. Refrigerators do not commonly have a variable speed compressor, but they do exist (including some from Danfoss, which supplies many of the mobile 12VDC refrigerator manufacturers). An on/off controller is cheaper.
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Old 11-03-2014, 07:09 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I agree. Refrigerators do not commonly have a variable speed compressor, but they do exist (including some from Danfoss, which supplies many of the mobile 12VDC refrigerator manufacturers). An on/off controller is cheaper.
An experienced refrigeration engineer told me today that the reason my compressor drew lower amps as the refer cooled is because the head pressure on the compressor is reduced when the unit isn't drawing as much heat from the refer. It was drawing around 4.2 amps just before it shut off. My compressor also has a resistor wired in series with the compressor motor and different values are used to change the RPM depending on the application.
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