Nova Kool RFU 8320 Refrigerator Installation - Page 8 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-22-2014, 12:03 PM   #71
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Hope you're keeping track of the costs to do a conversion. Too much to expect you to put a value on your time, but that would also be interesting data.
Actually Glenn, the time data wouldn't be all that accurate. Sorting out a process for the first time is always time consuming. Now that the trail's been blazed, the next person could use the photos and comments and probably shave off a lot of time.

As for the value on time, some folks view doing things like this more of a hobby than something the has a cost on their time. My view is that if these kinds of projects are done in my free time when I could be vegging out in front of a TV then then I don't put a value on my time.

Paving the way for installing a Nova Kool: priceless

Ron
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Old 11-22-2014, 12:26 PM   #72
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Hope you're keeping track of the costs to do a conversion. Too much to expect you to put a value on your time, but that would also be interesting data.
You might not want to go there, if you asked me you probably would not like to see the answer. The time and money we have spent working on our refrigerators only ' scratches the wound' .... it should have been spent camping.

Steve, like Lewis and Clark, should never be asked 'why did it take you so long?

The view only changes for the lead dog .... I am so thankful he is taking the lead
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:10 PM   #73
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...... never be asked 'why did it take you so long?
Lois.jpg
No way I'm going for the 8555 or the Nova Kool but must admit, this thread's got me thinking about pulling my 4.3 and adding a baffle. Oh, wait. You said Louis and Clark.
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Old 11-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #74
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This afternoon I installed all of the 2", R15 polyiso insulation board and sealed everything. The installation of the polyiso board was a very simple project and I encourage anyone with a 19 Escape to insulate their vent area like I did. It will significantly reduce the temperature in the back of the refer where the cooling business happens. The materials cost $42 including the polyiso board ($32) and adhesive ($10) and I now have R15 insulation so the sun can't get that area hot like an oven in the summer. I am now waiting for the fire block sealer foam to harden then the refer goes in permanently...probably tomorrow morning.

Here is the polyiso board laid out on saw horses being cut to fit, one piece at a time...Some cuts with the small power saw..some cuts with the Japanese pull saw.



Here I am fitting the board pieces in place one-by-one and bonding them to the fiberglass and each other with ECO-Bond Heavy Duty Adhesive and Sealant.



Here is a picture of the 2" thick poliso board closely fitted and sealed around the lower access vent.



Here is a picture of the job finished. This job was very easy to do and should have huge impact on keeping the temperature down in the area behind my new refer.



Tommorow the new refer goes in. Stay tuned!

Steve
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Old 11-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #75
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Hope you're keeping track of the costs to do a conversion. Too much to expect you to put a value on your time, but that would also be interesting data.
The cost ? Less than buying a TT with a primary component that does not work adequately to support our needs.
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:34 PM   #76
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Attachment 8810
No way I'm going for the 8555 or the Nova Kool but must admit, this thread's got me thinking about pulling my 4.3 and adding a baffle. Oh, wait. You said Louis and Clark.
This is what I want to see, the smiling wife as proud of her refrigerator as she is with her new trailer. She actually tuned me up about Lewis and Clark, so I like to use them to explain life ... Pulled the frig and implemented a few suggestions today. Update will be coming
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Old 11-22-2014, 11:52 PM   #77
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Steve
Very nice work, I appreciate the pic and tips. Did you just have a big open cavity with no insulation or plywood baffle??

I do have a rubber seal on 3 sides and foam sealing the bottom. (which I replaced) of the refer box. And a plywood baffle starting about 12" up which also provides some dead air space (insulation). There was no insulation installed anywhere in the cavity except a section of vinyl/foam on the roof.

Mel
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:30 AM   #78
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So I stuck a little camera through the outside vent and up behind my RM 8551, and here's what it saw. If I'm to insert a baffle up there seems to be not much benefit to it, and that duplex outlet will be an obstacle.
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:37 AM   #79
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The outlet should probably be relocated if you install a baffle. A baffle will help (not solve) the cooling problems by forcing the air to pass through the fins. Without the baffle much of the air will bypass them. The Dometic installation materials want very little extra space in the back - they want a wind tunnel rather than a still room (to make a tolerable analogy.)
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Old 11-23-2014, 09:49 AM   #80
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So the question is... is adding a baffle to constrict air flow in an already constricted area really worth the trouble? Guessing no way to determine you've reached the point of diminishing returns without putting in the baffle and comparing results... but then, if there's no obvious tipping point achieved all you got to show for the work is um... the satisfaction of having done it. Dunno about that.

I don't see Steve's installation sheets being anything but a thicker version of what ETI glued to my walls... better R-factor, sure, but rather an expensive fix for my case, I think.
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