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Old 11-23-2014, 10:02 AM   #81
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Appears to me Myron, your space is already insulated on the exterior wall, I'm not sure what little benefit you may obtain doing the small side walls.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:09 AM   #82
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I'm guessing none. Back to square one.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:14 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Very nice work, I appreciate the pic and tips. Did you just have a big open cavity with no insulation or plywood baffle??

I do have a rubber seal on 3 sides and foam sealing the bottom. (which I replaced) of the refer box. And a plywood baffle starting about 12" up which also provides some dead air space (insulation). There was no insulation installed anywhere in the cavity except a section of vinyl/foam on the roof.

Mel
Mel, I had no insulation nor baffle...just a big open cavity. This was the standard 19' design in 2012.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:14 AM   #84
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Myron,
I agree, your installation appears good, other than the baffle situation. I remember ETI posting something about the baffle and your plug, if it was in locale okay, in another then the baffle may help. Yors, if I recall is in the "other" and the baffle install was simple and not that complicated, if my memory serves me right.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:17 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Mel, I had no insulation nor baffle...just a big open cavity. This was the standard 19' design in 2012.
Now that you mention it, I remember on my 2012 19' Escape seeing the exterior wall covered with condensation on cool mornings right around the refer area, perhaps due to nothing on the wall then.
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:04 AM   #86
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It is all a matter of degree. If you can live with the fridge performance than leave it alone. If you can't, how unhappy are you? How much work is worth a bit (very precisely quantified amount) of improvement. (Answers will vary wildly - see klem's posts.)

Given no baffle and only reflectix - I like the idea of making the baffle out of the foil backed foam hotfishtacos used. One or two layers as needed. You MIGHT be able to fish it up from below in short pieces - maybe get Dave over to help - he has smaller hands and arms. Maybe use string from above to pull it up, sticks/poles?
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Old 11-23-2014, 11:25 AM   #87
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Pulling the frig is simple if you have a surface to support it going in/ out. Disconnect AC, DC, and gas. There are 2 screws on each side of the box with plastic caps in the door slot.. I slide it out a couple inches then remove the door (3 screws on the top). Then slide it out. It's not very heavy to lift out/ in if you have a platform to set it on and the door is off so you can reach in with your arm.

I made a platform out of an old metal wastebasket with plywood on top/bottom screwed to it. Anything for support is the answer to smooth in/out.

How much will it help? I hope enough to keep Irma happy as she was in our previous trailers and campers.

Mel
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Old 11-23-2014, 12:45 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
So the question is... is adding a baffle to constrict air flow in an already constricted area really worth the trouble? Guessing no way to determine you've reached the point of diminishing returns without putting in the baffle and comparing results... but then, if there's no obvious tipping point achieved all you got to show for the work is um... the satisfaction of having done it. Dunno about that.

I don't see Steve's installation sheets being anything but a thicker version of what ETI glued to my walls... better R-factor, sure, but rather an expensive fix for my case, I think.
While a different fridge, the performance of my 5 cu ft improved considerably when I added a curved "baffle" to the top to guide the exhaust out the side vent, and a lower baffle to force the incoming air into the coils rather than bypassing them. I used this guide provided by this Dometic I found at the Bryant RV document pages.

If the space is too large, the cool air entering the bottom of the refrigerator just bypasses the fins. As jamman notes, the amount of space recommended by Dometic is very narrow. If the space it too wide (such as mine) they recommend a lower baffle. I made both of mine from aluminum flashing.
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:03 PM   #89
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From that Dometic Guide... "OPTION NO. 1
Consists of one roof vent and one lower side vent.
Recommended for normal installations where
natural draft ventilation is possible."


Ah-hah, Jon!...and clearly, "F" in their Figure speaks volumes. Is this a smoking gun? Looking maybe like I will be pulling out my fridge and doing the baffle after all.

OOps...excuse typo in my thumbnail "RM...etc."
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Option1.jpg (29.8 KB, 48 views)
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:12 PM   #90
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I like Steve's insulation job, but it's not critical for the type of fridge he's installing. Would a similar insulation job benefit the absorption fridges? Sure, since it will reduce the heat transfer from outside to inside. But, as some have pointed out, the critical factor for the absorption Fridge's is to reduce the SPACE between the outer wall and the back of the fridge. That way the rising air cannot help but pass over the fins.
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