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Old 11-07-2014, 02:07 PM   #41
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Alan, the 250 watt panel he offered has too high a voltage for me. I want to stay with the appx. 17 volt output so he is looking again.
I was thinking that if you found a 250 watt panel in the lower voltage range, then sign me up - I want one. But as you have found out, those higher wattage panels generally come in the 36-40v range, which is not too useful. The primary benefit of the higher voltage panels is the smaller gauge wire (less $$) that can be used with them.

But there is one solution to that particular dilemma. It would be to use a DC-DC buck regulator (aka buck converter). That device can cut the voltage in half and at the same time double the amps. No power lost, except a % of efficiency which is usually tolerable. In fact, the DC-DC buck converter is the brute force half of a MPPT controller. (The brainy half being a small computer similar to what is used in the GoPower controller).

But if you don't want to experiment, then a pair of 125 watt, 17-20v panels will give you exactly the same useful power. But if you do want to "play" then get that 250w panel and a DC-DC converter in the 300w range from eBay for about $40US and have a ball.

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Old 11-07-2014, 02:13 PM   #42
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I was thinking that if you found a 250 watt panel in the lower voltage range, then sign me up - I want one. But as you have found out, those higher wattage panels generally come in the 36-40v range, which is not too useful. The primary benefit of the higher voltage panels is the smaller gauge wire (less $$) that can be used with them.

But there is one solution to that particular dilemma. It would be to use a DC-DC buck regulator (aka buck converter). That device can cut the voltage in half and at the same time double the amps. No power lost, except a % of efficiency which is usually tolerable. In fact, the DC-DC buck converter is the brute force half of a MPPT controller. (The brainy half being a small computer similar to what is used in the GoPower controller).

But if you don't want to experiment, then a pair of 125 watt, 17-20v panels will give you exactly the same useful power. But if you do want to "play" then get that 250w panel and a DC-DC converter in the 300w range from eBay for about $40US and have a ball.

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Alan
Alan, I would probably go down in wattage to maybe 140-160 watts and possibly a portable mount like I indicted earlier. I could also move one of my 95 watt panels to the front top of the 19 and put a new 160 in its place on the back top area. First I need to see if I need any more charge capacity. My conservative estimates tell me I have plenty now.
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Old 11-07-2014, 02:16 PM   #43
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... First I need to see if I need any more charge capacity...
I was under the impression that having excess charge capacity was like having excess money or beer.



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Old 11-07-2014, 02:38 PM   #44
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I was under the impression that having excess charge capacity was like having excess money or beer.
I think buying excess solar capacity is a little like paying for a lot of beer, then pouring some of it down the drain when it turns out to be excess. Having more than needed is good, but maybe buying way too much is not entirely desirable...
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:38 PM   #45
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Actually having excess solar capacity seems like a good idea. The ability to meet demands when you need it and when there is sufficent solar radiation is ideal . The output from the photovoltaic system is regulated by the controller in response to variable energy requirements.
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Old 11-08-2014, 12:14 AM   #46
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More capacity, more options. I would never complain that I was not using all the power at my disposal.
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Old 11-08-2014, 01:10 AM   #47
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What is excess capacity on a sunny day in southern latitudes in midsummer might be just right for someone on a cloudy day in late fall up north. I would suggest taking your location and camping habits into consideration. For example, I live in the Pacific Northwest and want to be able to go out early and late in the year. It is guaranteed to be cloudy and raining some of the time. I'm planning on a lot of panels. I've been delighted to see what hotfishtacos has done since I may need extra panels and batteries and it's nice to know a system expansion like that has been done. I figure after my first year as an owner I'll know if and by how much I need to expand .
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:56 PM   #48
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Well, we got back from a week of camping at Morro Bay so I pulled the Dometic 4.3 refer and microwave to make room for the new Nova Kool unit. I rough cut the opening and disconnected the two 120 volt outlets for the refer and microwave. Notice that there was no insulation or baffles behind the original refrigerator. I was pleased to see that the 12 volt supply wires for the Dometic refer are 10 gauge which is perfect for the new refer. For now I am going to plug the end of the old gas supply line. Longer-term I would like to pull it out. Here are some pics;

Pulled the Dometic 4.3 Refer


Pulled out the microwave


Rough cut opening


Tomorrow I will start the finishing cuts. When the new refer will fit into the opening I will purchase some polyiso insulating board and insulate the back area.
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Old 11-16-2014, 07:24 PM   #49
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Thanks for the update Steve. Lookin' good so far, no surprises.
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:22 PM   #50
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Great start. Love seeing the detail photos of the hidden spaces. Lots of folks will be following your progress with interest.

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Old 11-16-2014, 11:20 PM   #51
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Ron, after my previous post I kept working so I finish cut (almost) the opening for the new fridge and if you look at the previous "Rough cut opening" picture, all of the the wood bracing on the right side wall all had to come off. I'll show a picture of that tomorrow. The refer is just too wide with that 1" wood in place. Thankfully the thin wall can stay where it is and the original closet that was converted to a pantry with pull out baskets a long time ago won't be affected by this work. It really helped to completely remove the front metal frame from the Nova Kool refer to use as a sizing template for cutting the opening. This installation is going really fast and I expect it to be completed by the end of the week. For those woodworkers out there one of my most versatile tools has been my Fein Oscillating Multitool with different blades. I can get in really tight places and make very precise cuts. The entire cutout was done with this tool. I work full time so my fun begins after I get home from work. Stay tuned!

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Old 11-16-2014, 11:29 PM   #52
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I was under the impression that having excess charge capacity was like having excess money or beer.



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Alan, you and I definitely need to fish together!
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Old 11-16-2014, 11:54 PM   #53
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Can't wait to see how this turns out. I am so leery of the current propane/AC/DC fridge options.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:43 PM   #54
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Tonight I was back at it and made great progress. I finished the cutouts for the new Nova Kool refrigerator and used the frame removed from the refer as a template to get the cutout exact. I have included pictures and will comment on them individually.

Here the the refer frame sitting in the cutout. Notice the refer will be on top and the freezer on the bottom. Also notice that the microwave cabinet has been cutout and the new refer frame fills the entire width across to the pantry door.




This is a picture of the bottom right edge. Notice that the refer frame sits behind the heater cover and directly against the pantry door. What a tight fit!




This is the bottom of the frame. I will have to trim it out and I have a nice piece of trim that greggo provided last week. Thanks Greg!



I have about 1/2 inch of the original microwave cabinet left on the top. Maybe a good place to store a pizza?



Here is a 2" thick polyiso board (R-15) that I will insulate the back area of the refrigerator cavity with. This area will vent the motor and condenser heat away and normally gets very hot with the sun shining directly on the fiberglass. I doubt if any heat will penetrate this stuff!



Stay tuned! Steve
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:54 PM   #55
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You could put a pizza peel up there but would probably have to cut off part of the handle.
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Old 11-19-2014, 12:56 AM   #56
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Tonight I was back at it and made great progress. I finished the cutouts for the new Nova Kool refrigerator
So you're saying that the Fein multi-tool does a fine job. Good to hear. It's probably one of the few tools that I don't have but maybe I should get one before I hack into the woodwork to install two new cabinets. I want to do the neatest job possible.

Great photos as usual and I'm guessing that the R15 insulation will be a lot better at keeping external heat out than the reflectix.

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Old 11-19-2014, 09:37 AM   #57
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Ditto what Ron said. Thought I was fearless but I am in awe watching this.
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Old 11-19-2014, 09:50 AM   #58
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Steve, I think it would have to be a Brooklyn style pizza.

Interesting that the fit is so tight given the dimensions supplied by NovaKool. I guess they're talking unit size and not frame size.
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Old 11-19-2014, 11:44 AM   #59
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Steve, I think it would have to be a Brooklyn style pizza.

Interesting that the fit is so tight given the dimensions supplied by NovaKool. I guess they're talking unit size and not frame size.
Yes, it is really, really tight! That is why I took the frame off the refer and used it as a cutting template. BTW, It occurred to me last night that I haven's shown any pics of the refer and the compressor system so I will post some of those this evening.
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Old 11-19-2014, 06:06 PM   #60
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When I bought my multi-tool it was the only tool I didn't have. first used it to cut into wall/cabinet under my kitchen sink to repair a leak. The acsess hole was so square, I made a hinged plumbing door out of it. Now I use it everywhere. You can cut with great precision in the most awkward of spots. Right out of the box my cuts were good.
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