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Old 06-28-2017, 08:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Thanks ! the fan upgrade is sitting right here . Taking a little break for as long as I can stand it . I love going out to the trailer every day . Question I was going to ask you and Robert ?
The vent they sent , any problems with water going in trailer ? And is the vent UV so it won't yellow ? I probably will have some more questions about installing if I get stuck if that's ok ? Pat
No problem with any water, but I obviously wouldn't spray directly into it when washing the trailer. It still looks like new and believe it is UV stable. I don't think you could buy a better vent, but only time will tell. Certainly ask any questions you have. I started with a recirculating hood so I cut the hole in the trailer too. Yours should be easier. I did opt to discard the foam gasket that came with the exterior vent and went with butyl tape. This allowed me to pad out the top a bit thicker as the trailer curved away slightly. Then sealed perimeter with white ProFlex.
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Thanks ! the fan upgrade is sitting right here . Taking a little break for as long as I can stand it . I love going out to the trailer every day . Question I was going to ask you and Robert ?
The vent they sent , any problems with water going in trailer ? And is the vent UV so it won't yellow ? I probably will have some more questions about installing if I get stuck if that's ok ? Pat
Pat, the grille style vent that's included in the SAM-1 hasn't leaked on ours, but I must admit it looked like it would when compared to the stock one which was fully hooded.

Here's what I did to reduce any chance of water getting in. First, I cut the black air outlet on the fan assembly by a little less than an inch, so that once the range hood was in place, it touched the screen material on the new vent, but didn't protrude too far.

Then, once the range hood was back in place, from outside, I removed the Phillips screws that hold the center grill in place on the vent, and removed it. Not the whole vent cover - just the middle insert.

Now I had direct access to the air outlet on the fan assembly from outside the trailer. I took some pvc pieces and cut them to fit around the black air outlet all the way around, and caulked them in place - so that the only place for any water to possibly get in would be through the air outlet.

Then, I just put the grill insert of the outside vent cover back in place. This worked very well. The pvc pieces were probably not necessary, but I suppose it was peace of mind.

One other thing - If yours is like mine, you'll find a piece of foam wrapped in some of the wall vinyl, that is glued to the back of the range hood and acts as a "gasket". Leave that in place. That way, once the range hood is reinstalled, it will fit tightly against the interior wall.

I did it a bit different than Dave, in that I did use the foam gasket that came with the vent. Works well. As for UV, the new vent is supposed to be less susceptible to yellowing. Time will tell.

Hope all this makes sense. Feel free to follow up if needed.

EDIT: nice work on the floor! Question - how did you deal with the screen door guide rail along the floor by the entrance? Did it require removing the screen door or just the bottom rail?

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Old 06-28-2017, 09:00 PM   #23
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STUNNING floor, Pat. Wonderful work there.

Dirk loves it too! When he saw the photos - "WOW" were his exact words. A man of few words.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:06 PM   #24
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Rich you might be right ! The trailer probably would stay afloat for awhile anyway . Pat
Long enough for the Coast Guard to get to you I'll bet.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:24 PM   #25
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Gotta get me one of those flooring upgrades! Nice job on the raised floor too.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #26
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The flooring and bling look great. I too can't say enough about the SAM-1, a nice upgrade.
Thankyou Jim ! Good to know about the fan ! Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:32 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
No problem with any water, but I obviously wouldn't spray directly into it when washing the trailer. It still looks like new and believe it is UV stable. I don't think you could buy a better vent, but only time will tell. Certainly ask any questions you have. I started with a recirculating hood so I cut the hole in the trailer too. Yours should be easier. I did opt to discard the foam gasket that came with the exterior vent and went with butyl tape. This allowed me to pad out the top a bit thicker as the trailer curved away slightly. Then sealed perimeter with white ProFlex.
Thanks for the head's up on installing the vent . Good to know about the water , I was a little concerned looking at vent . Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Pat, the grille style vent that's included in the SAM-1 hasn't leaked on ours, but I must admit it looked like it would when compared to the stock one which was fully hooded.

Here's what I did to reduce any chance of water getting in. First, I cut the black air outlet on the fan assembly by a little less than an inch, so that once the range hood was in place, it touched the screen material on the new vent, but didn't protrude too far.

Then, once the range hood was back in place, from outside, I removed the Phillips screws that hold the center grill in place on the vent, and removed it. Not the whole vent cover - just the middle insert.

Now I had direct access to the air outlet on the fan assembly from outside the trailer. I took some pvc pieces and cut them to fit around the black air outlet all the way around, and caulked them in place - so that the only place for any water to possibly get in would be through the air outlet.

Then, I just put the grill insert of the outside vent cover back in place. This worked very well. The pvc pieces were probably not necessary, but I suppose it was peace of mind.

One other thing - If yours is like mine, you'll find a piece of foam wrapped in some of the wall vinyl, that is glued to the back of the range hood and acts as a "gasket". Leave that in place. That way, once the range hood is reinstalled, it will fit tightly against the interior wall.

I did it a bit different than Dave, in that I did use the foam gasket that came with the vent. Works well. As for UV, the new vent is supposed to be less susceptible to yellowing. Time will tell.

Hope all this makes sense. Feel free to follow up if needed.

EDIT: nice work on the floor! Question - how did you deal with the screen door guide rail along the floor by the entrance? Did it require removing the screen door or just the bottom rail?

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Thanks Robert . I am going to print out your instructions , that way I can keep referring to them .
Yes on the screen , you will need to remove the rail and the screen mechanism not the whole frame around the door . Go to files on the forum and there is the manual for our door . I needed to cut the screen mechanism in height ,just the height of the flooring . I have a shelf over the door and really like it so I just gave in and cut the mechanism . They tell you in the manual which end to cut etc. I just followed their instructions on cutting . Don't do what I did and not take a few pictures before you take things apart . Took me awhile , I had the screen quide wrong . It attaches with little screws on each side at the bottom . I finally saw what I did wrong . Also I removed the moulding Escape installed and added my own . It is birch 1/4 round I had . You don't need to leave 1/4 in space, more like 1/8 in . Greg told me that is what he did so I followed his lead since he has done this before . Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:52 PM   #29
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STUNNING floor, Pat. Wonderful work there.

Dirk loves it too! When he saw the photos - "WOW" were his exact words. A man of few words.
Thanks Laura ! Tell Dirk Thankyou too ! Did you see on the split hose thread the picture I took for you ? People like signs so they don't forget Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:53 PM   #30
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Long enough for the Coast Guard to get to you I'll bet.
Yup ! Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:58 PM   #31
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Gotta get me one of those flooring upgrades! Nice job on the raised floor too.
Thankyou Ross I just decided to leave it the way it has been for over 2 years with the carpet . I did raise it up 1 1/2 in higher though even though there has never been a problem with the vents . Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:01 PM   #32
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Thank you Pat. Pretty much confirmed what I thought. I already have the Seiki screen instructions and recall reading where they talk about cutting to fit.

Just to confirm: we're talking about cutting a bit off the catch frame (page 8 of their manual) and the screen housing assembly (page 9 of their manual), just to compensate for the floor thickness - correct?

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Old 06-28-2017, 10:22 PM   #33
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Thank you Pat. Pretty much confirmed what I thought. I already have the Seiki screen instructions and recall reading where they talk about cutting to fit.

Just to confirm: we're talking about cutting a bit off the catch frame (page 8 of their manual) and the screen housing assembly (page 9 of their manual), just to compensate for the floor thickness - correct?

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Basically I cut the , catch frame . I removed the screen housing from the door frame . You will be removing the top rail , no cutting on that , just removing it . Follow the directions which end to cut and how . You will be removing the lock adjusters end caps , and then after the cut , putting them back . There is a aluminum roller with the screen attached you will be cutting through the whole thing . Hope this helps . Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:07 PM   #34
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Thanks Laura ! Tell Dirk Thank you too ! Did you see on the split hose thread the picture I took for you ? People like signs so they don't forget Pat
Didn't see the comment. Stopped reading that thread some time ago since it's way off topic now and my trailer has been fixed.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:11 PM   #35
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Didn't see the comment. Stopped reading that thread some time ago since it's way off topic now and my trailer has been fixed.
I 'll send it to you tomorrow . It was a picture for you cause of your signs in your trailer . Pat
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:14 PM   #36
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I 'll send it to you tomorrow . It was a picture for you cause of your signs in your trailer . Pat
Or post #365 in the thread . Pat
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:39 PM   #37
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Very nice! Looks beautiful!


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Old 06-29-2017, 06:54 PM   #38
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Pat, one more question. When planning the floor, I intended to remove the moldings, cut the existing vinyl along the edge, and peel it up and remove it before installing the Allure. My thinking is that it will reduce the thickness and maybe make the screen mods unnecessary. Did you remove the vinyl or just put the Allure over it?
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:16 PM   #39
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When I installed my Pergo floor (I have done it 3 times now, 2 in my Lance and one in my 19) I did nor remove the vinyl as the Pergo floats on top. You do not want to frame it it either, it needs to expand and contract with the temperature change. I butted one side to the existing molding and caulked the opposite side with dark caulk. I covered the edges with new 1/4 molding but did not nail into the floor, it needs to float and not be fixed, so I nailed into the existing molding. See here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...a-1657-15.html
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:40 PM   #40
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When I installed my Pergo floor (I have done it 3 times now, 2 in my Lance and one in my 19) I did nor remove the vinyl as the Pergo floats on top. You do not want to frame it it either, it needs to expand and contract with the temperature change. I butted one side to the existing molding and caulked the opposite side with dark caulk. I covered the edges with new 1/4 molding but did not nail into the floor, it needs to float and not be fixed, so I nailed into the existing molding. See here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...a-1657-15.html
Yes, I understand the laminate floats. The Allure floats too, but a different product. Not laminate but vinyl. The grip-strip of the Allure turns it into basically one vinyl sheet when complete. Framing all the way around just keeps it from coming up along the edge, and it still has room to expand and contract. The framing isn't attached to the floor, but the walls. It's not supposed to be adhesed or caulked anywhere.

My question has more to do with the floor thickness, and whether removing the existing vinyl before installing would help that. As a side note, Allure is much thinner than laminate flooring.
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