|
|
06-28-2017, 08:50 PM
|
#21
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Thanks ! the fan upgrade is sitting right here . Taking a little break for as long as I can stand it . I love going out to the trailer every day . Question I was going to ask you and Robert ?
The vent they sent , any problems with water going in trailer ? And is the vent UV so it won't yellow ? I probably will have some more questions about installing if I get stuck if that's ok ? Pat
|
No problem with any water, but I obviously wouldn't spray directly into it when washing the trailer. It still looks like new and believe it is UV stable. I don't think you could buy a better vent, but only time will tell. Certainly ask any questions you have. I started with a recirculating hood so I cut the hole in the trailer too. Yours should be easier. I did opt to discard the foam gasket that came with the exterior vent and went with butyl tape. This allowed me to pad out the top a bit thicker as the trailer curved away slightly. Then sealed perimeter with white ProFlex.
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 08:53 PM
|
#22
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Thanks ! the fan upgrade is sitting right here . Taking a little break for as long as I can stand it . I love going out to the trailer every day . Question I was going to ask you and Robert ?
The vent they sent , any problems with water going in trailer ? And is the vent UV so it won't yellow ? I probably will have some more questions about installing if I get stuck if that's ok ? Pat
|
Pat, the grille style vent that's included in the SAM-1 hasn't leaked on ours, but I must admit it looked like it would when compared to the stock one which was fully hooded.
Here's what I did to reduce any chance of water getting in. First, I cut the black air outlet on the fan assembly by a little less than an inch, so that once the range hood was in place, it touched the screen material on the new vent, but didn't protrude too far.
Then, once the range hood was back in place, from outside, I removed the Phillips screws that hold the center grill in place on the vent, and removed it. Not the whole vent cover - just the middle insert.
Now I had direct access to the air outlet on the fan assembly from outside the trailer. I took some pvc pieces and cut them to fit around the black air outlet all the way around, and caulked them in place - so that the only place for any water to possibly get in would be through the air outlet.
Then, I just put the grill insert of the outside vent cover back in place. This worked very well. The pvc pieces were probably not necessary, but I suppose it was peace of mind.
One other thing - If yours is like mine, you'll find a piece of foam wrapped in some of the wall vinyl, that is glued to the back of the range hood and acts as a "gasket". Leave that in place. That way, once the range hood is reinstalled, it will fit tightly against the interior wall.
I did it a bit different than Dave, in that I did use the foam gasket that came with the vent. Works well. As for UV, the new vent is supposed to be less susceptible to yellowing. Time will tell.
Hope all this makes sense. Feel free to follow up if needed.
EDIT: nice work on the floor! Question - how did you deal with the screen door guide rail along the floor by the entrance? Did it require removing the screen door or just the bottom rail?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:00 PM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Seatac, Washington
Trailer: "The Trailer", 2nd Gen 21' & a 2017 Tundra CrewMax in Blazing Blue Pearl
Posts: 2,888
|
STUNNING floor, Pat. Wonderful work there.
Dirk loves it too! When he saw the photos - "WOW" were his exact words. A man of few words.
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:06 PM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Rich you might be right ! The trailer probably would stay afloat for awhile anyway . Pat
|
Long enough for the Coast Guard to get to you I'll bet.
__________________
Rich & Mary
"Everything in moderation, including moderation."
- Oscar Wilde
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:24 PM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
|
Gotta get me one of those flooring upgrades! Nice job on the raised floor too.
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:30 PM
|
#26
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett
The flooring and bling look great. I too can't say enough about the SAM-1, a nice upgrade.
|
Thankyou Jim ! Good to know about the fan ! Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:32 PM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
No problem with any water, but I obviously wouldn't spray directly into it when washing the trailer. It still looks like new and believe it is UV stable. I don't think you could buy a better vent, but only time will tell. Certainly ask any questions you have. I started with a recirculating hood so I cut the hole in the trailer too. Yours should be easier. I did opt to discard the foam gasket that came with the exterior vent and went with butyl tape. This allowed me to pad out the top a bit thicker as the trailer curved away slightly. Then sealed perimeter with white ProFlex.
|
Thanks for the head's up on installing the vent . Good to know about the water , I was a little concerned looking at vent . Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:49 PM
|
#28
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
Pat, the grille style vent that's included in the SAM-1 hasn't leaked on ours, but I must admit it looked like it would when compared to the stock one which was fully hooded.
Here's what I did to reduce any chance of water getting in. First, I cut the black air outlet on the fan assembly by a little less than an inch, so that once the range hood was in place, it touched the screen material on the new vent, but didn't protrude too far.
Then, once the range hood was back in place, from outside, I removed the Phillips screws that hold the center grill in place on the vent, and removed it. Not the whole vent cover - just the middle insert.
Now I had direct access to the air outlet on the fan assembly from outside the trailer. I took some pvc pieces and cut them to fit around the black air outlet all the way around, and caulked them in place - so that the only place for any water to possibly get in would be through the air outlet.
Then, I just put the grill insert of the outside vent cover back in place. This worked very well. The pvc pieces were probably not necessary, but I suppose it was peace of mind.
One other thing - If yours is like mine, you'll find a piece of foam wrapped in some of the wall vinyl, that is glued to the back of the range hood and acts as a "gasket". Leave that in place. That way, once the range hood is reinstalled, it will fit tightly against the interior wall.
I did it a bit different than Dave, in that I did use the foam gasket that came with the vent. Works well. As for UV, the new vent is supposed to be less susceptible to yellowing. Time will tell.
Hope all this makes sense. Feel free to follow up if needed.
EDIT: nice work on the floor! Question - how did you deal with the screen door guide rail along the floor by the entrance? Did it require removing the screen door or just the bottom rail?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
|
Thanks Robert . I am going to print out your instructions , that way I can keep referring to them .
Yes on the screen , you will need to remove the rail and the screen mechanism not the whole frame around the door . Go to files on the forum and there is the manual for our door . I needed to cut the screen mechanism in height ,just the height of the flooring . I have a shelf over the door and really like it so I just gave in and cut the mechanism . They tell you in the manual which end to cut etc. I just followed their instructions on cutting . Don't do what I did and not take a few pictures before you take things apart . Took me awhile , I had the screen quide wrong . It attaches with little screws on each side at the bottom . I finally saw what I did wrong . Also I removed the moulding Escape installed and added my own . It is birch 1/4 round I had . You don't need to leave 1/4 in space, more like 1/8 in . Greg told me that is what he did so I followed his lead since he has done this before . Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:52 PM
|
#29
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner
STUNNING floor, Pat. Wonderful work there.
Dirk loves it too! When he saw the photos - "WOW" were his exact words. A man of few words.
|
Thanks Laura ! Tell Dirk Thankyou too ! Did you see on the split hose thread the picture I took for you ? People like signs so they don't forget Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:53 PM
|
#30
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz
Long enough for the Coast Guard to get to you I'll bet.
|
Yup ! Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 09:58 PM
|
#31
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue
Gotta get me one of those flooring upgrades! Nice job on the raised floor too.
|
Thankyou Ross I just decided to leave it the way it has been for over 2 years with the carpet . I did raise it up 1 1/2 in higher though even though there has never been a problem with the vents . Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 10:01 PM
|
#32
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Thank you Pat. Pretty much confirmed what I thought. I already have the Seiki screen instructions and recall reading where they talk about cutting to fit.
Just to confirm: we're talking about cutting a bit off the catch frame (page 8 of their manual) and the screen housing assembly (page 9 of their manual), just to compensate for the floor thickness - correct?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 10:22 PM
|
#33
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4
Thank you Pat. Pretty much confirmed what I thought. I already have the Seiki screen instructions and recall reading where they talk about cutting to fit.
Just to confirm: we're talking about cutting a bit off the catch frame (page 8 of their manual) and the screen housing assembly (page 9 of their manual), just to compensate for the floor thickness - correct?
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
|
Basically I cut the , catch frame . I removed the screen housing from the door frame . You will be removing the top rail , no cutting on that , just removing it . Follow the directions which end to cut and how . You will be removing the lock adjusters end caps , and then after the cut , putting them back . There is a aluminum roller with the screen attached you will be cutting through the whole thing . Hope this helps . Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 11:07 PM
|
#34
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Seatac, Washington
Trailer: "The Trailer", 2nd Gen 21' & a 2017 Tundra CrewMax in Blazing Blue Pearl
Posts: 2,888
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Thanks Laura ! Tell Dirk Thank you too ! Did you see on the split hose thread the picture I took for you ? People like signs so they don't forget Pat
|
Didn't see the comment. Stopped reading that thread some time ago since it's way off topic now and my trailer has been fixed.
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 11:11 PM
|
#35
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by NW Cat Owner
Didn't see the comment. Stopped reading that thread some time ago since it's way off topic now and my trailer has been fixed.
|
I 'll send it to you tomorrow . It was a picture for you cause of your signs in your trailer . Pat
|
|
|
06-28-2017, 11:14 PM
|
#36
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
I 'll send it to you tomorrow . It was a picture for you cause of your signs in your trailer . Pat
|
Or post #365 in the thread . Pat
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 05:39 PM
|
#37
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Porterville, California
Trailer: 2020 Bigfoot 25RQ
Posts: 199
|
Very nice! Looks beautiful!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
Sandy
2020 Bigfoot 25RQ
2016 Ford F-150 3.5 v6 Eco boost
Porterville, CA
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 06:54 PM
|
#38
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Pat, one more question. When planning the floor, I intended to remove the moldings, cut the existing vinyl along the edge, and peel it up and remove it before installing the Allure. My thinking is that it will reduce the thickness and maybe make the screen mods unnecessary. Did you remove the vinyl or just put the Allure over it?
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 08:16 PM
|
#39
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
|
When I installed my Pergo floor (I have done it 3 times now, 2 in my Lance and one in my 19) I did nor remove the vinyl as the Pergo floats on top. You do not want to frame it it either, it needs to expand and contract with the temperature change. I butted one side to the existing molding and caulked the opposite side with dark caulk. I covered the edges with new 1/4 molding but did not nail into the floor, it needs to float and not be fixed, so I nailed into the existing molding. See here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...a-1657-15.html
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
|
|
|
06-29-2017, 08:40 PM
|
#40
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
When I installed my Pergo floor (I have done it 3 times now, 2 in my Lance and one in my 19) I did nor remove the vinyl as the Pergo floats on top. You do not want to frame it it either, it needs to expand and contract with the temperature change. I butted one side to the existing molding and caulked the opposite side with dark caulk. I covered the edges with new 1/4 molding but did not nail into the floor, it needs to float and not be fixed, so I nailed into the existing molding. See here http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...a-1657-15.html
|
Yes, I understand the laminate floats. The Allure floats too, but a different product. Not laminate but vinyl. The grip-strip of the Allure turns it into basically one vinyl sheet when complete. Framing all the way around just keeps it from coming up along the edge, and it still has room to expand and contract. The framing isn't attached to the floor, but the walls. It's not supposed to be adhesed or caulked anywhere.
My question has more to do with the floor thickness, and whether removing the existing vinyl before installing would help that. As a side note, Allure is much thinner than laminate flooring.
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
|
|
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|