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Old 06-08-2019, 10:37 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
While this works if I have the trailer & tow vehicle together, I'd hate to have to hook up the trailer & haul it to the local (30 miles away) Ford dealer to show him the charge line isn't working.
I do tow some kind of trailer a lot, and almost always check the connections when hooking up, or even if hooked up first thing in the day.
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Old 06-08-2019, 05:10 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
All the light functions inside and outside the trailer can be tested when disconnected from the tow vehicle?
No, only the clearance lights and interior lights, brake and turn signal will not operate while disconnected.
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Old 06-13-2019, 02:18 PM   #23
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Hmmm...my 5,0 has a switch built in.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:20 PM   #24
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Coming back from Osoyoos we stopped at Flying J's, etc. for the night. I uncoupled from the 7 pin on my 4 Runner in order to run off the trailer batteries. I was concerned about draining the vehicle battery. I had loads of fun each morning trying to plug back in. What a pain. The 4-Runner's receptacle is recessed way back in underneath the bumper. Even the guy who walked us through the hitch up orientation at the Escape facility said it was difficult. One time I had to lie down on my back in a driving rain with a flash light in one hand in order to plug the harness in. Has anyone added a cutoff switch on the 21 that would bypass the tow vehicle battery?
My 2008 Tacoma, my 2001 E150, my 2002 F250 all had/have trailer cutoff relays, they only energize the RV socket when the alternator is running.
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Old 06-13-2019, 03:34 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by algonquin50 View Post
Hmmm...my 5,0 has a switch built in.
Do you mean the "storage" or "isolation" switch which is part of every Escape? That doesn't turn of the power from the tow vehicle and leave everything working from the trailer battery; it disconnects the trailer's battery from the charger/converter and the fuse panel, so unless you are plugged into shore power almost everything stops working.
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Old 06-14-2019, 07:11 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
My 2008 Tacoma, my 2001 E150, my 2002 F250 all had/have trailer cutoff relays, they only energize the RV socket when the alternator is running.
I posed this question on the T4R.org. forum. Here was the most closely aligned response to my question.

"simple test for you - press the brake pedal of your TV - brake lights on trailer will still come on & if you turn on your headlights - marker lights on trailer will come on.
So it's not isolated - you will avoid big power drain from TV by doing your trailer disconnect but small drain stuff will still happen - don't sweat it - it's ok. BTW I have used my 4R for last 5 years like you are using yours - no issue & never a flat battery in the 4R"
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Old 06-14-2019, 09:56 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
I posed this question on the T4R.org. forum. Here was the most closely aligned response to my question.

"simple test for you - press the brake pedal of your TV - brake lights on trailer will still come on & if you turn on your headlights - marker lights on trailer will come on.
So it's not isolated - you will avoid big power drain from TV by doing your trailer disconnect but small drain stuff will still happen - don't sweat it - it's ok. BTW I have used my 4R for last 5 years like you are using yours - no issue & never a flat battery in the 4R"
The lights are never shut off - relay or not. The relay (if present) will only shut off the +12V charge circuit. You can test it with a multimeter, 12V test light or socket tester.
https://www.amazon.com/d/RV-Engine-C...ter/B001EOWQY4
You are looking for +12V with the ignition, all lights, and brakes off. If nothing start the tow vehicle and look for +12V.
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Old 06-14-2019, 11:07 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
I posed this question on the T4R.org. forum. Here was the most closely aligned response to my question.

"simple test for you - press the brake pedal of your TV - brake lights on trailer will still come on & if you turn on your headlights - marker lights on trailer will come on.
So it's not isolated - you will avoid big power drain from TV by doing your trailer disconnect but small drain stuff will still happen - don't sweat it - it's ok. BTW I have used my 4R for last 5 years like you are using yours - no issue & never a flat battery in the 4R"
As long as the 4Runner's lights are not left on, and no one is sitting in it pushing the brake pedal, there is zero power drain from the vehicle lighting circuits, so there is no need (or reason, or benefit) to unplug.
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Old 06-14-2019, 11:45 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
I posed this question on the T4R.org. forum. Here was the most closely aligned response to my question.

"simple test for you - press the brake pedal of your TV - brake lights on trailer will still come on & if you turn on your headlights - marker lights on trailer will come on.
So it's not isolated - you will avoid big power drain from TV by doing your trailer disconnect but small drain stuff will still happen - don't sweat it - it's ok. BTW I have used my 4R for last 5 years like you are using yours - no issue & never a flat battery in the 4R"
trailer running lights don't use the trailer battery circuit at all, they are powered from separate pins on the controller specifically for those lights. no light == no power. what that person described is no different than leaving the lights on in your vehicle without a trailer.... sure, that will eventually flatten your battery. (albeit with LED lights, it would take quite awhile).
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Old 06-14-2019, 01:54 PM   #30
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i was told that my trailer would not drain my 2009 Highlander's battery if it was off /key out. But it did i ended up with a dead battery in a Walmart parking lot. i would test it before i trusted it. i always unplug now - but i few times i recently didn't - no issues but just one night and fully charged camper batteries and now a Ford truck so maybe its doesn't drain the truck battery.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:03 PM   #31
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did that 09 Highlander come with a factory 7-blade RV connector, or was that added aftermarket? If aftermarket, they might not have used an isolation relay, and instead directly connected to the vehicle battery.
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Old 06-14-2019, 03:33 PM   #32
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Again, an inexpensive tester such as the one Jim mentioned in post #10 is useful for determining if you have a "always live" or switched with the ignition trailer charge line.

By the way, I whined in a later post that mine was upside down when used with the F 150. I took a good look at the device & there is a set screw that, when loosened, lets you turn the LED display any direction. Mine now points up!
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:48 PM   #33
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you could also use a volt meter to do this, albeit being careful not to short pins...
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Old 06-15-2019, 07:05 AM   #34
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you could also use a volt meter to do this, albeit being careful not to short pins...
I'm trying to visualize what would it be like to short the pins. Like putting one lead in, say, the 11 slot and instead of putting the other lead in the neutral slot somewhere else? Like I did....
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:51 PM   #35
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I'm trying to visualize what would it be like to short the pins. Like putting one lead in, say, the 11 slot and instead of putting the other lead in the neutral slot somewhere else? Like I did....
you're probing the 'socket' side on the vehicle, which has naked blades not in slots, the slots are in the 'plug' side on the trailer.
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Old 06-15-2019, 04:17 PM   #36
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The vehicle is what he is probing in order to determine if his power is off when the ignition is off.....
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Old 06-15-2019, 04:42 PM   #37
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ooops...sorry you're right. I guess I just read it wrong. Still a nice feature though as it prevents vamping, etc. Guess it would also be nice in case of an emergency.
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