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Old 11-22-2013, 01:00 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by santacruzer View Post
I got the two-way water heater, and we've used it both ways. I looked at it as one more option when camping, and one added feature down the road to a potential buyer if I ever sell the trailer. Yes, you need to go outside to turn it on, but in the grand scheme of things that's not a big deal to me.

I seem to remember a thread either here or on FGRV where somewhere wired an inside switch for the two-way heater, but when I looked at my set-up, it looked forebodingly difficult, so I'm just getting used to things the way the are, at least for now.
Before I added the inside switch for 120V to the water heater I just left the outside switch on all the time. The only time I turned it off was for sites that only had 15A hook ups. The water heater will run on gas with the 120V switch on...
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Old 11-22-2013, 05:01 PM   #12
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We have found that the water heater will heat the water to very hot in not very long. It can then be turned off. The water will stay hot for many hours except in the coldest weather. Jon will not burn out the heater element but many people do when leaving the heater on and forgetting at some time that they don't have water in it. We also always make sure the heater is off when leaving the trailer.

Having that hot water is one of the best features of the trailer to me. I keep thinking that it might not be a bad idea to carry an extra heating element.
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Old 11-22-2013, 06:22 PM   #13
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Yrs, it is a good habit to turn off the element, particularly if you drain the water heater for sanitary and weight reasons. All you need to do is hook up and poff, the element is gone.
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:35 PM   #14
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Before I added the inside switch for 120V to the water heater I just left the outside switch on all the time. The only time I turned it off was for sites that only had 15A hook ups. The water heater will run on gas with the 120V switch on...
You can also use the breaker to turn the water heater on and off and don't need a separate switch. I was wondering if shutting off the main breaker would switch off the gas detectors and other parasitic devices when in storage.

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Old 02-28-2014, 12:39 PM   #15
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I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.

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Old 02-28-2014, 12:40 PM   #16
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You can also use the breaker to turn the water heater on and off and don't need a separate switch. I was wondering if shutting off the main breaker would switch off the gas detectors and other parasitic devices when in storage.

Harris
You do have to remember that breakers are not designed to be used as everyday switches, and will wear out faster if used that way. They really should only be used to disconnect a circuit for working on it, or of course to do their intended job, and to trip an overloaded circuit.

You can just turn off the disconnect switch, and all DC loads will be isolated.

It is a real simple modification to add a switch in the circuit to the heater. I did just that, and added an indicator light as well to remind us it is on. I also added a light to the propane activation switch for the water heater too. They have been a valuable modification for us. I even saw someone had copied the propane switch idea, and is marketing it now.
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Old 02-28-2014, 12:41 PM   #17
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I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.

Harris
I see no reason you can't, you just have to take into account the narrowness of the stud cavity, and that you are installing them on thin plywood. For any light load, and one acting straight down, I would think the would work fine.
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Old 02-28-2014, 01:04 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ellentob View Post
I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.

Harris
As Jim said, the plywood is very thin. I've used expanding screws at home, and even though my house isn't traveling down the road, those screws have expanded the hole over time and come loose.

I favour the 3M Command line of products for coat hooks etc.
They are strong and easily removed and moved to another location without leaving a hole in the wall.

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Old 02-28-2014, 02:28 PM   #19
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On my current non fiberglass trailer I have the same thin walls. In the bathroom I've used toggle bolts to hang coat hooks, towel racks, and such. Due to the size of the hole you have to drill for them I used the toggle bolts to attach 1/2" oak to which I attached the accessories. Worked fine but I don't think I want to go that route when hanging items in the fiberglass bathroom. Being as how you can get solid walls here and there, I'll take them up on the option.
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:46 AM   #20
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A couple questions if I can tack them on here.

If you got the aluminum wheels, did you get the spare done too?

Did anyone with a 21 get a counter extension, if so are you happy with it?

Where'd you get or wish you had gotten extra 12v outlets?

For the 5.0 owners, hows the default TV location work out for occasional use?
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