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11-21-2013, 02:06 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Questions on upgrades
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Hi, and grats! We have 180 days and counting. Can someone tell me why they would want the reinforced walls. Question 2, why would someone want so many 12v outlets? Why not use the u-ground plugs with the inverter instead? You'd have to get the transfer switch but that should take care of that. Most devices, phones computers and the like use a u-ground recepticle? I must be missing something here. Could it be an efficiency issue. More draw and the batteries with the inverter, i'm not sure? And at what temp would I ever need the 12v heat pads under the spray foam insul. I like the idea of getting the insul on the bottom but do I really need the 12v heating pads? There is less draw for me to go after anything regarding the esthetics, but more draw for me with anything to do with the functionality of the TT. I don't want to miss something on the TT i'd regret later and I'm a bit of a procrastinator anyway, so I want it set up the way I want it now, except for the easy things to add like a portable stereo or something. I don't like the idea of putting a stereo that would be outdated in a year into a trailer. I'd rather just get a pre-wire, or have a decent portable. I hope someone will chime in and answer some of my questions. Thanks and again congratulations on your purchase. We also purchased the 21, and will be picking ours up May 20th.
Mike
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Converting 120 v to 12v to charge a 12v item is inefficient when you can directly use the 12v. Only if the item is 120v only would you need the inverter. Most computers and televisions are dc using black boxes converting 120v to 6-14v. The 12v heat pads are thermostatically activated at 40 degrees on/off. But with the foam spray I found I did not need them. In addition, you need to be hooked up as they use a lot of battery juice.
The reinforced walls is for hanging televisions or shelves or any item where you do not want to be limited to finding and only hanging on a stud, if there is one.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-21-2013, 02:13 PM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Luis Obispo, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' OTW
Posts: 18
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Questions on upgrades
Hi Everyone,
Can someone tell me why they would want the reinforced walls.
Why would someone want so many 12v outlets? Why not use the u-ground plugs with the inverter instead? You'd have to get the transfer switch but that should take care of that. Most devices, phones computers and the like use a u-ground recepticle? I must be missing something here. Could it be an efficiency issue. More draw and the batteries with the inverter, i'm not sure?
When would I need the 12v heat pads under the spray foam insul. I like the idea of getting the insul on the bottom but do I really need the 12v heating pads?
Can someone tell me which tv antenna they have the most luck with. There are two upgrades, one says has power amp, the other is a Jack, which i'd assume also has a power amp. I'm not sure what problems one or the other may cause with height differences on top of the tt. Which receives better reception?
Does anyone know where the surge protector is located. Is this something that can be added later? $260 for a surge protector seems steep to me. Must be something really nice.
Any comments on the 2 way water heater, I'm thinking this might be a good upgrade also, if used when 120 is available or if using a generator. Boondock propane, hookups elec, what are the advantages to having both? any comments?
Which inverter would someone recommend, wouldn't the 1000 watt be big enough? How fast can someone drain a battery anyway? I would be thinking anything with over a 1000 watt draw while using the batteries would cause a very fast discharge.
Your answers may help me and other decide on what's important and not important when it comes to our own expectations when trailer camping and setting up our rigs.
Thanks in advance for any comments you might provide to the questions I asked.
Mike
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11-21-2013, 02:14 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
I'm not sure if this is the right area for the questions, but since i'm here i'll ask anyway. Can someone tell me which tv antenna they have the most luck with. There are two upgrades, one says has power amp, the other is a Jack, which i'd assume also has a power amp. I'm not sure what problems one or the other may cause with height differences on top of the tt.
Does anyone know where the surge protector is located. Is this something that can be added later? 260 for a surge protector seems steep to me. Must be something really nice.
Any comments on the 2 way water heater, I'm thinking this might be a good upgrade also, if used when 120 is available or if using a generator.
Which inverter would someone recommend, wouldn't the 1000 watt be big enough? How fast can someone drain a battery anyway? I would be thinking anything with over a 1000 watt draw while using the batteries would cause a very fast discharge.
I'm asking for myself, but these are the type of questions others may have because of the inexperience with TT's in general.
Thanks All!
Mike
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The Jack antenna is an improvement over the winegard in that it is tunable for the best direction. It has 4 less and you rotate the top until most bars are on. You then turn on the tv, and the amplifies at the coaxial and tune the television. Other wise you have to turn the whole trailer to try and get better reception. The EMS is located next to the converter with the remote read out under the refer. See my build sheet, last set of pictures for the remote location. It can be assed later, if you wish, but the cost charged by Escape is cheaper.
It protects all the electronics in your trailer, the refer, the converter, the air conditioner from burn out from under voltage, from voltage spikes from lightning, from improper cg wiring issues.
I got solar so that I did not have to carry around a generator, I skipped the 120v water heater option. Besides you have to go outside and turn it on/off and if you forget it can cost you $.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-21-2013, 02:38 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: _, Texas
Trailer: Escape 5.0 SA
Posts: 544
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Welcome Mike,
You can use the search engine on this forum to find many of your questions. There is a wealth of information to be found with time and effort.
I will start out with one of your easy question about 2 way hot water tanks. It would depend on what kind of camping you plan to do. If you plan on using campgrounds with hookups. that means you can save your propane by switching to the electric heat element in your tank. If you going to dry camp with out power or water hookups most of the time then you can burn propane when you want hot water on demand. Personally, I like both options. I camp in parks that have hookups most of the time. It's your choice. We have a few members that never use their hot water heaters and a very few have no hot water heater at all.
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11-21-2013, 04:55 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Hi Mike,
Not sure what you mean by reinforced walls. Escape does use cabinetry or gables to add support and stability to the roof.
I have two 12V plugs, and there have been a couple times a third would be handy, but not necessary. They mostly get used for chargers.
You don't have to get the 12V heat pads with the spray insulation underneath. Many have opted out, as even though 12V, you do need to be plugged in, or you would drain the batteries in a hurry.
I can't comment on the inverters, antennas or surge protectors, as I don't have any, or do I have need for them with my camping style.
I got the dual fuel water heater. For a few more bucks, it is nice to use the electricity when at a campground, it saves propane and is quieter.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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11-21-2013, 05:04 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Highland Park, New Jersey
Trailer: Escape 19 February 2014
Posts: 975
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Reinforced walls I believe make it possible to put hooks etc. into the walls -- or shelves.
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11-21-2013, 05:30 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Sorry if I mess this up by copying responses from another thread threw the first one out of whack.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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11-21-2013, 06:34 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 755
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I got the two-way water heater, and we've used it both ways. I looked at it as one more option when camping, and one added feature down the road to a potential buyer if I ever sell the trailer. Yes, you need to go outside to turn it on, but in the grand scheme of things that's not a big deal to me.
I seem to remember a thread either here or on FGRV where somewhere wired an inside switch for the two-way heater, but when I looked at my set-up, it looked forebodingly difficult, so I'm just getting used to things the way the are, at least for now.
__________________
2019 Tundra CrewMax Limited TRD 4WD
2014 Escape 19
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11-21-2013, 10:50 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Luis Obispo, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' OTW
Posts: 18
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Hi and thanks for the responses. I'm going to spend some time searching other threads as mentioned. I thought someone had similar questions about the options and I'll start looking at what I find. I keep checking Jim's thread on the build, the pictures with descriptions are the draw for me. Thanks for putting those up Jim. All the people on this forum seem to be really fine people who like helping others find their way.
Thanks for that,
Mike
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11-22-2013, 06:30 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
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You need to have the walls reinforced if you wish to hang anything from a television to magazine rack to towel rack. That's if you wish to use screws to afix the items. Doesn't mean you have to have all the walls done. Plan ahead and put some thought in how you wish to outfit your trailer for creature comforts.
There's only three walls in the new 5er, I'm getting them all done.
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11-22-2013, 12:00 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by santacruzer
I got the two-way water heater, and we've used it both ways. I looked at it as one more option when camping, and one added feature down the road to a potential buyer if I ever sell the trailer. Yes, you need to go outside to turn it on, but in the grand scheme of things that's not a big deal to me.
I seem to remember a thread either here or on FGRV where somewhere wired an inside switch for the two-way heater, but when I looked at my set-up, it looked forebodingly difficult, so I'm just getting used to things the way the are, at least for now.
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Before I added the inside switch for 120V to the water heater I just left the outside switch on all the time. The only time I turned it off was for sites that only had 15A hook ups. The water heater will run on gas with the 120V switch on...
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11-22-2013, 04:01 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Denison, Texas
Trailer: 2015 21'; 2011 19' sold; 4Runner; ph ninezero3 327-27ninefour
Posts: 5,136
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We have found that the water heater will heat the water to very hot in not very long. It can then be turned off. The water will stay hot for many hours except in the coldest weather. Jon will not burn out the heater element but many people do when leaving the heater on and forgetting at some time that they don't have water in it. We also always make sure the heater is off when leaving the trailer.
Having that hot water is one of the best features of the trailer to me. I keep thinking that it might not be a bad idea to carry an extra heating element.
__________________
Cathy. Floating Cloud
"Live in the sunshine, swim the sea, drink the wild air.... "
Emerson
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11-22-2013, 05:22 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Yrs, it is a good habit to turn off the element, particularly if you drain the water heater for sanitary and weight reasons. All you need to do is hook up and poff, the element is gone.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-28-2014, 11:35 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye
Before I added the inside switch for 120V to the water heater I just left the outside switch on all the time. The only time I turned it off was for sites that only had 15A hook ups. The water heater will run on gas with the 120V switch on...
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You can also use the breaker to turn the water heater on and off and don't need a separate switch. I was wondering if shutting off the main breaker would switch off the gas detectors and other parasitic devices when in storage.
Harris
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02-28-2014, 11:39 AM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19
Posts: 74
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I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.
Harris
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02-28-2014, 11:40 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellentob
You can also use the breaker to turn the water heater on and off and don't need a separate switch. I was wondering if shutting off the main breaker would switch off the gas detectors and other parasitic devices when in storage.
Harris
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You do have to remember that breakers are not designed to be used as everyday switches, and will wear out faster if used that way. They really should only be used to disconnect a circuit for working on it, or of course to do their intended job, and to trip an overloaded circuit.
You can just turn off the disconnect switch, and all DC loads will be isolated.
It is a real simple modification to add a switch in the circuit to the heater. I did just that, and added an indicator light as well to remind us it is on. I also added a light to the propane activation switch for the water heater too. They have been a valuable modification for us. I even saw someone had copied the propane switch idea, and is marketing it now.
LINK
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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02-28-2014, 11:41 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellentob
I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.
Harris
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I see no reason you can't, you just have to take into account the narrowness of the stud cavity, and that you are installing them on thin plywood. For any light load, and one acting straight down, I would think the would work fine.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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02-28-2014, 12:04 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: North Vancouver, British Columbia
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
Posts: 17,136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellentob
I have a question on reinforced walls. Why can't you use expanding screws or "molly's" we call them here? They are made to hang things on hollow walls.
Harris
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As Jim said, the plywood is very thin. I've used expanding screws at home, and even though my house isn't traveling down the road, those screws have expanded the hole over time and come loose.
I favour the 3M Command line of products for coat hooks etc.
They are strong and easily removed and moved to another location without leaving a hole in the wall.
Command
__________________
What happens to the hole when the cheese is gone?
- Bertolt Brecht
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02-28-2014, 01:28 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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On my current non fiberglass trailer I have the same thin walls. In the bathroom I've used toggle bolts to hang coat hooks, towel racks, and such. Due to the size of the hole you have to drill for them I used the toggle bolts to attach 1/2" oak to which I attached the accessories. Worked fine but I don't think I want to go that route when hanging items in the fiberglass bathroom. Being as how you can get solid walls here and there, I'll take them up on the option.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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03-25-2014, 05:46 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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A couple questions if I can tack them on here.
If you got the aluminum wheels, did you get the spare done too?
Did anyone with a 21 get a counter extension, if so are you happy with it?
Where'd you get or wish you had gotten extra 12v outlets?
For the 5.0 owners, hows the default TV location work out for occasional use?
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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