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Old 04-18-2019, 02:26 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micheal K View Post
A minor advantage of the mechanical thermostat is that it doesn’t have any standby power consumption. Digital themostats probably use 10 or 20 mA (more if it has feaures like wifi and a color touchscreen).
Ours used a battery which lasts for years . Just a regular alkaline. Pat
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:30 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Micheal K View Post
A minor advantage of the mechanical thermostat is that it doesn’t have any standby power consumption. Digital themostats probably use 10 or 20 mA (more if it has feaures like wifi and a color touchscreen).
The digital thermostat we bought uses 2 AA batteries for power. I don't think the manual thermostat has constant power wired to it (I could be wrong). The Honeywell website said the batteries should be replaced once a year which makes me think they will last at least one year. We will just have to add changing the batteries to the de-winterization checklist!
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by GoCampBC View Post
The digital thermostat we bought uses 2 AA batteries for power. I don't think the manual thermostat has constant power wired to it (I could be wrong). The Honeywell website said the batteries should be replaced once a year which makes me think they will last at least one year. We will just have to add changing the batteries to the de-winterization checklist!
Ours is white Rogers and we find the batteries will tell you because when you press buttons up or down the light will be dim . Pat
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Old 04-23-2019, 01:36 PM   #24
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We tried unsuccessfully to install the new digital thermostat over the weekend. We were camping out of call reception so we couldn't do any research or check the forum. We pulled the stock thermostat and as expected there were two wires. The new thermostat can accept a multitude of wire so we referred to the manual. I was hoping for a "if you only have a two wire system just do the following" which didn't exist. My guess was to put the wires into the "U" and "R" terminals, but its wasn't warm enough at night to jeopardize the heater!

For those that have done this upgrade, any ideas on how to hook it up?

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Old 04-23-2019, 02:09 PM   #25
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This is what I did, and it works. I didn't understand the instructions either. I didn't pull the u-shaped connector.
On yours, it looks like R and W.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:18 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by GoCampBC View Post
We tried unsuccessfully to install the new digital thermostat over the weekend. We were camping out of call reception so we couldn't do any research or check the forum. We pulled the stock thermostat and as expected there were two wires. The new thermostat can accept a multitude of wire so we referred to the manual. I was hoping for a "if you only have a two wire system just do the following" which didn't exist. My guess was to put the wires into the "U" and "R" terminals, but its wasn't warm enough at night to jeopardize the heater!

For those that have done this upgrade, any ideas on how to hook it up?

Attachment 38531
Attachment 38532
Determine your 12V + with a multi-meter. This goes on "R". The other wire goes on "W". This is a simple 2-wire hookup and the thermostat is simply connecting power to the furnace board when the temperature is below set point. I see that this agrees with what Glenn just posted as well.

(FYI it definitely can't be the "U" terminal as the manual for your thermostat says that it does not support L/A, S, or U terminals.)
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:22 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
This is what I did, and it works. I didn't understand the instructions either. I didn't pull the u-shaped connector.
On yours, it looks like R and W.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Determine your 12V + with a multi-meter. This goes on "R". The other wire goes on "W". This is a simple 2-wire hookup and the thermostat is simply connecting power to the furnace board when the temperature is below set point. I see that this agrees with what Glenn just posted as well.

(FYI it definitely can't be the "U" terminal as the manual for your thermostat says that it does not support L/A, S, or U terminals.)
Great advice guys!! I will get out the multi-meter and hook up the hot lead to the "R" and the other to the "W". I got a bit more used to the mechanical "booing" on the weekend, but it still wakes me up here and there. Can wait to get this installed!
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:24 PM   #28
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Great advice guys!! I will get out the multi-meter and hook up the hot lead to the "R" and the other to the "U". I got a bit more used to the mechanical "booing" on the weekend, but it still wakes me up here and there. Can wait to get this installed!
Not "U"...."W"
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:26 PM   #29
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Not "U"...."W"
I guess I should proof read my posts! Edited to correct.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:27 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by GoCampBC View Post
Great advice guys!! I will get out the multi-meter and hook up the hot lead to the "R" and the other to the "W". I got a bit more used to the mechanical "booing" on the weekend, but it still wakes me up here and there. Can wait to get this installed!
Check Dave's post again and the other wire goes to W not U . R and W is also what we connected . Also Glen's instructions . Pat
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:28 PM   #31
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Check Dave's post again and the other wire goes to W not U . R and W is also what we connected . Also Glen's instructions . Pat
Dave glad you saw that ! Pat
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:36 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by GoCampBC View Post
Great advice guys!! I will get out the multi-meter and hook up the hot lead to the "R" and the other to the "W". I got a bit more used to the mechanical "booing" on the weekend, but it still wakes me up here and there. Can wait to get this installed!
I believe that the "R" terminal is labeled on the plastic on your old thermostat (circled in red). So you should be able to do this without checking the wires.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:42 PM   #33
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BTW, the U I was referring to is the "U-shaped" clip, which on mine connects the two top R terminals.
And, now you know your ABCs.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:54 PM   #34
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BTW, the U I was referring to is the "U-shaped" clip, which on mine connects the two top R terminals.
And, now you know your ABCs.
That's a jumper that only comes into play if you are providing 12V power for cooling also. GoCamp's thermostat doesn't use jumpers either way so it's a non-issue. If he attaches to "R" he is good to go.
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:42 PM   #35
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thanks for the great discussion

Thanks for this thread. We are still relatively new to the camper world in our 2017 Escape 19. My wife was just commenting on our last camping trip that she could not tell if the thermostat was off or on.
That combined with the analog slider makes this a must do upgrade.
I appreciate all of the feedback and hope that the thermostat I get will be easy to install.
I've noticed that several have had lots of connections and that you have to choose the right one.
JeffO
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Old 05-01-2019, 12:52 PM   #36
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Thanks for this thread. We are still relatively new to the camper world in our 2017 Escape 19. My wife was just commenting on our last camping trip that she could not tell if the thermostat was off or on.
That combined with the analog slider makes this a must do upgrade.
I appreciate all of the feedback and hope that the thermostat I get will be easy to install.
I've noticed that several have had lots of connections and that you have to choose the right one.
JeffO
Jeff: No sweat. The consensus for those of us who have done it is 12V+ on "R" and the other wire on "W". Shouldn't be different among thermostats. As I indicated in post 32 it appears that "R" is labeled on the back of the existing thermostat so you shouldn't even need to test the wires.

By the way...did you receive the parts for the outdoor shower I sent?
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Old 05-01-2019, 01:10 PM   #37
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Yes, I did!
I'm sitting here at my desk using them as a reminder to say thank you.
So, thank you. I'm happy to have that back up as it adds to the peace of mind that belt and suspenders provide. That whole ordeal was one big learning experience, of which I have had many
I'll be happy to pay that forward whenever I can
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Old 05-04-2019, 12:53 PM   #38
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Just another positive report here. I also used the Honeywell RTH5100B. Bought on amazon for US$36.06. Working great.

I had some trouble keeping the jumper in and fitting the cable in (at least with the gauge of cable used in my 2018 model) but reading through here it was clear the Rc input is only used if you’re using cooling, so I took out the jumper and just used R on that end and seems fine.
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Old 05-04-2019, 01:52 PM   #39
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Just another positive report here. I also used the Honeywell RTH5100B. Bought on amazon for US$36.06. Working great.

I had some trouble keeping the jumper in and fitting the cable in (at least with the gauge of cable used in my 2018 model) but reading through here it was clear the Rc input is only used if you’re using cooling, so I took out the jumper and just used R on that end and seems fine.
I installed the Honeywell TH1100DV1000. Heat only model, as I don't have an air conditioner.

As stated, just transfer over the R and W cables after clipping the terminal connectors. I did check that the R cable carried the +12 line voltage. The mechanical switch would not care if the terminals were crossed over. I don't know if the digital thermostat would be as forgiving?!
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Old 05-04-2019, 03:04 PM   #40
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I ordered a digital non-prgrammable thermostat and it only has three screws. I think I can figure that one out. Thanks again for all your help
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