Ron's Dual 12 volt install

[Ron in BC]

I expected to make a new tongue box and use the existing battery box for two 12s. Instead I got a free tongue box and had to make a custom box for two 12s. That's the way it goes sometimes.

I fabricated a battery box, used the existing floor drain and exterior vent. It's well sealed. I used separate entrance holes for the cables unlike ETI's way of notching the rim. The negative of that way is that every time you take off the lid you disturb the putty seal.

Installed the Blue Seas battery switch so that it's easily reachable. Easier install for the battery and switch than the 19, with the batteries and switch in the same locker. The old battery switch will become my solar on-off switch. I didn't have one of those switches on my 19, , but I see now why the Myron mod switch protector would be a good idea.

Took the opportunity to replace the seat support to nowhere with a continuous one and paint the plywood. I hate bare unfinished plywood.

Lots of mods to do and systems still to test. 2 night shakedown scheduled for next week.

Ron

[jxoco]

Nice..
It took me awhile to spot the seat support to nowhere.
Now I'm going to have take my 17 apart to see if it is made the same way.
What are you up to next? A small inverter? A plug for a portable panel?

[Ron in BC]

Well, if I was a betting guy I'd bet you'd find supports to nowhere in several places. The tip off is seeing a group of about 5 screws. They depend on several screws to the deck material to bridge the gap. It works but I noticed in my 19 that it you put a point load on the area, like kneeling, you hear it creak. Not a big deal but I wasn't going to ignore it and put it back together when I had a chance to improve it.

What's next? Don't make me think that far ahead. The list is very long.

One thing that is different though is that for the first time since 1988 when it became feasible to have a consumer priced inverter and microwave, they're not on the list. With USB charging and a 12 volt TV and extremely minimal use of the microwave I'll probably skip installing them. But they're are easy to retro-fit and never say never.

Ron

[jxoco]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Well, if I was a betting guy I'd bet you'd find supports to nowhere in several places.

With USB charging and a 12 volt TV

You can find lots of variations of this on amazon.ca for USB stuff.
And newer models have QC3 charging that works quite well.

I'll be looking for those non-supports...

[MyronL]

Eyes on you, Ron.

[Randy in Maine]

I just put one of these in where my 12volt socket comes in (since my "non-escape trailer" does not have a volt meter in it)......about $20.

[Oldtimer]

And where did you purchase this setup

[Ron in BC]

So just dealt with the support to nowhere on the other side and I open up the drivers side. What's the first thing that I do? Put my elbow down on the "support" and lean forward. Almost did a face plant. Must be a slow learner. Jim, no comment.

Yes, USB and voltmeter outlets are very inexpensive. I had 3 different ones in my 19 and will have at least 2 in the 21. Always nice to see voltage at a glance and you can never have too many outlets.

I see ETI hasn't lost their love of crimp connectors. At least opening up hidden spaces shows me where they are if I have problems in the future.

Ron

[gbaglo]

Here's the ad Google placed alongside your post.
Hope it helps.

[Ron in BC]

Good one Glenn. Kind of scary though, it's kind of like someones looking over your shoulder. We used to joke about Big Brother watching, not so much of a joke now.

Ron

[Mike Lewis]

Ron- Did you reinforce the front panel where you installed the marine battery switch? If so, how did you do it? Thanks.

And regarding ETI crimping connections-- how would you do it? Crimp and solder? I'm trying to learn best practices for low voltage wiring.

[Merlin]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Good one Glenn. Kind of scary though, it's kind of like someones looking over your shoulder. We used to joke about Big Brother watching, not so much of a joke now.

Ron

Not to worry, it's just google selling your data to advertisers. Big Brother has said this is OK.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

... how would you do it? Crimp and solder? I'm trying to learn best practices for low voltage wiring.

Electrical connections are crimped - there's nothing wrong with that. Practices which are problems (which may or may not occur in any specific trailer) include

• splices in what should be continuous wire runs (I think the crimped butt splice connectors in Ron's last photo are the issue to which he is referring), and
• insulation-displacing connectors (such as 3M Scotchlok taps)
• twist-on wire nuts

Solder is for printed circuit boards. Others will disagree, but try to find a soldered connection other than on a circuit board anywhere in a modern automobile...

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

So just dealt with the support to nowhere on the other side and I open up the drivers side. What's the first thing that I do? Put my elbow down on the "support" and lean forward. Almost did a face plant. Must be a slow learner. Jim, no comment.

Yes, USB and voltmeter outlets are very inexpensive. I had 3 different ones in my 19 and will have at least 2 in the 21. Always nice to see voltage at a glance and you can never have too many outlets.

I see ETI hasn't lost their love of crimp connectors. At least opening up hidden spaces shows me where they are if I have problems in the future.

Ron

Ron first picture shows your cord confined but it is a little tangled . That will definitely gets worst as cord gets cold Pat

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Ron- Did you reinforce the front panel where you installed the marine battery switch? If so, how did you do it? Thanks.

And regarding ETI crimping connections-- how would you do it? Crimp and solder? I'm trying to learn best practices for low voltage wiring.

No, I didn't reinforce the front panel. It is a rotary switch, there isn't any push-pull action. The forces required to rotate the knob aren't large and the 4 machine screws are in shear. I've mounted them this way before and it's certainly strong enough to not require a back panel.

Personally I always solder my crimped connectors. Even being very careful crimping I've had crimped connectors come apart with a small tug. Soldered connections don't separate easily.

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Electrical connections are crimped - there's nothing wrong with that. Practices which are problems (which may or may not occur in any specific trailer) include

• splices in what should be continuous wire runs (I think the crimped butt splice connectors in Ron's last photo are the issue to which he is referring), and
• insulation-displacing connectors (such as 3M Scotchlok taps)
• twist-on wire nuts

Solder is for printed circuit boards. Others will disagree, but try to find a soldered connection other than on a circuit board anywhere in a modern automobile...

Yes, it's the butt splices in normally inaccessible spaces that I don't like. I'd like to see more continuous runs and less butt splices.

Also the wire color changes drive me nuts. You look in a hidden space and see that a red wire becomes a green wire etc. Makes it very hard to trouble shoot if you're looking for the exit point of the red wire.

True about the lack of soldered connections in a modern car. But I have to believe that the highly standardized process in car production yields pretty consistent results. The "individually done by hand" method that ETI uses does yield some less than terrific results as I found on my last trailer.

Pat, that's a discussion for another day.

Ron

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Personally I always solder my crimped connectors. Even being very careful crimping I've had crimped connectors come apart with a small tug. Soldered connections don't separate easily.

Properly crimped connections don't separate easily, either; however...

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

True about the lack of soldered connections in a modern car. But I have to believe that the highly standardized process in car production yields pretty consistent results. The "individually done by hand" method that ETI uses does yield some less than terrific results as I found on my last trailer.

This is a good point; it's not just the connection method, but the execution which matters. But would "individually done by hand" solder connections in an RV factory be any better? I doubt it.

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Also the wire color changes drive me nuts. You look in a hidden space and see that a red wire becomes a green wire etc. Makes it very hard to trouble shoot if you're looking for the exit point of the red wire.

Definitely an issue, especially without a wiring diagram for reference.

The only specific instance of this that I recall is splicing the tail lamp harnesses (which are the same on each side) to the lighting circuits (which have different colours for left and right stop/turn wires); that's understandable, and it could reasonably happen with other equipment which has pigtails rather than terminals. Are there others?

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No, I didn't reinforce the front panel. It is a rotary switch, there isn't any push-pull action. The forces required to rotate the knob aren't large and the 4 machine screws are in shear. I've mounted them this way before and it's certainly strong enough to not require a back panel.

Personally I always solder my crimped connectors. Even being very careful crimping I've had crimped connectors come apart with a small tug. Soldered connections don't separate easily.



Yes, it's the butt splices in normally inaccessible spaces that I don't like. I'd like to see more continuous runs and less butt splices.

Also the wire color changes drive me nuts. You look in a hidden space and see that a red wire becomes a green wire etc. Makes it very hard to trouble shoot if you're looking for the exit point of the red wire.

True about the lack of soldered connections in a modern car. But I have to believe that the highly standardized process in car production yields pretty consistent results. The "individually done by hand" method that ETI uses does yield some less than terrific results as I found on my last trailer.

Pat, that's a discussion for another day.

Ron

Ok I ‘ll wait .
That is the second time I have seen your picture of brake wiring . I guess I should get down there and take a look . If I find that I have some waterproof butt connectors to use ? Pat

[Ron in BC]

Don't know, I soldered and heat shrunk mine.

Ron

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Don't know, I soldered and heat shrunk mine.

Ron

Will do if needed . Have all that in case . Pat

[Oldtimer]

I had to redo my crimp connection on my 21 right after we picked it up last yr. seems to be a reoccurring problem that ETI hasn’t resolved yet.