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Old 07-21-2017, 09:48 PM   #21
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Drawer is in and working well. Still enough room on the right side to reach the HWH bypass valves and the winterizing tee valve.
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Old 07-22-2017, 08:53 AM   #22
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Your drawer looks great ! A word of caution though. You may want to consider a means of positively locking the drawer so that it won't slide forward if you have to brake hard. My 2-drawer system (as linked by Donna earlier in this post) has worked well for us for years, but during a "hard brake" one of the drawers rammed forward and broke one of the cabinet doors. I was able to fix the door without any visible effects, but have since installed sliding bolt locks on each drawer to prevent further "ramming".

Hope this helps,

Bret
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Old 07-22-2017, 09:18 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by 3498hyt View Post
Your drawer looks great ! A word of caution though. You may want to consider a means of positively locking the drawer so that it won't slide forward if you have to brake hard. My 2-drawer system (as linked by Donna earlier in this post) has worked well for us for years, but during a "hard brake" one of the drawers rammed forward and broke one of the cabinet doors. I was able to fix the door without any visible effects, but have since installed sliding bolt locks on each drawer to prevent further "ramming".

Hope this helps,

Bret
Thanks Bret. Once installed we saw that the detents on the slides were useless to keep it closed under braking. We actually just took the wood piece that is used as a prop for the bed hatch and cut it down a few inches. Still works as a prop, but allows us to jam it between the floor and the bed hatch vertically in front of the drawer. Because the hatch lifts slightly but has some of the weight of the mattress it is very easy to get in and out. We'll see how this works.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:12 AM   #24
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Ended up adding a spring loaded cabinet latch to the drawer. This will latch when the drawer is closed and eliminates the need to put the wood blocking piece in to stop the drawer from coming forward when braking. This was given to me so I don't have the exact item but believe it is made by Ives. It is very similar to something like this:
www.woodworkerexpress.com/draw-latches-cupboard-catches-cupboard-catches-brushed-nickel.html. The latches that are stocked at Lowe's/HD are crap.
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:25 AM   #25
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rubicon327, I think your latch is one of these;

Transom Latches - Lee Valley Tools




Nice job by the way..
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:33 AM   #26
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rubicon327, I think your latch is one of these;
Transom Latches - Lee Valley Tools

Nice job by the way..
Yeah, that's it. Mine just looks like a finish that isn't made anymore. Good find. Didn't know they were called transom latches.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:19 PM   #27
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Another great idea!
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Old 09-10-2018, 09:53 PM   #28
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Update

The 75# capacity Blum 430E slides are not holding up well on my drawer. Getting binding when opening. I think they may have bent slightly. Going with 200# slides from Lee Valley. Will post pics once I get them mounted.

200 lb Slides - Lee Valley Tools
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Old 09-21-2018, 02:32 PM   #29
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The 75# capacity Blum 430E slides are not holding up well on my drawer. Getting binding when opening. I think they may have bent slightly. Going with 200# slides from Lee Valley. Will post pics once I get them mounted.

200 lb Slides - Lee Valley Tools
Drawer is back in with the new 24" 200# full extension slides. Nice that I was able to reuse the Blum universal mounting brackets. I was able to mount it lower so I didn't have to shim up my transom latch like I did previously. The drawer is much more smooth and sturdy with the ball bearings. The reason that I didn't do this from the beginning is that the original slides were two piece and allowed the drawer to be removed. I thought that this was required to access the hot water heater bypass valves and winterizing T-valve. With the new slides the drawer is no longer removable without unscrewing the floor brackets, but that is ok. There is still room on the right side to reach the valves or one can access them through the hatch under the bed by propping the mattress up. Sorry no pictures yet.

https://www.amazon.com/handyct-Blum-.../dp/B002K9TAN2
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:37 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
The 75# capacity Blum 430E slides are not holding up well on my drawer. Getting binding when opening. I think they may have bent slightly. Going with 200# slides from Lee Valley. Will post pics once I get them mounted.



200 lb Slides - Lee Valley Tools


Dave, you promised pics. Where da pics? Love me some pics. Pretty please?
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:47 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Yeah, that's it. Mine just looks like a finish that isn't made anymore. Good find. Didn't know they were called transom latches.
There are some of those in my neighbors attic, they hold the half moon windows closed. There is a chain attached, here is a picture
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Old 05-12-2019, 12:17 PM   #32
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we turned the closet into a 2 additional shelve pantry. under bed we use storage totes and milk crates.


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Old 05-15-2019, 02:17 PM   #33
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Dave, you promised pics. Where da pics? Love me some pics. Pretty please?
Sorry. Next time I'm in the trailer I will snap a few and post. It looks very similar to the original install but the drawer sits a little lower so I didn't need to a add a block of wood under the transom latch. These slides also do not allow the drawer to "jump up" like the others which could have allowed the transom latch to come out of the catch. The drawer is now very solid on the 200# slides and I'm much happier with the installation.
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Old 09-30-2020, 12:56 AM   #34
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and the front storage box has drain holes, would make a great cooler filled with ice....
Too funny. $300 or so of ice?
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Old 09-30-2020, 05:50 AM   #35
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Mount some beer taps on the top of the box, place the kegs outside and run the supply hoses inside the box in the ice and be a hit no matter where you park,,,,,cold beer on tap......party Escape..........
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Old 05-31-2021, 09:15 AM   #36
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Tucker Tote boxes and tension bars

I use assorted Tucker Tote plastic lidded boxes and other sizes in different brands to slide under the bed/dinette areas. I keep then in place with a couple of tension bars I got from Amazon. I just searched for the size I needed. Same tension bars as the hardware store 40 miles from here has but closer and half the price.
I just make sure the tension bars are in place as part of my drive away checklist and upon arrival, the bars come down and the boxes under the dinette get moved out on top of the bed. But lately I've been using the bathroom for those boxes and moving them as needed.
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