Switching 12v to dual six volts - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-11-2015, 07:01 AM   #11
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I have a different solar controller then you folks with the ETI install but when traveling I get 10 amps from the TV and nothing from the solar. It must sense the higher voltage from the TV and not output anything. Unfortunately the fridge uses 14 amps.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:55 AM   #12
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That is news to me, one would think if the drain was 4 amps then the controller would allow charing o take place? Anyone else have any ideas on this issue. Still with a negative 4 amp draw one would be good for awhile on 12V? I'll have to check my input while hooked up with the stock Escape controller.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:51 AM   #13
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I'll be interested to see what you get. At the end of a long day on the road I was down something like 30 amps. If you're stopping for the night somewhere with hookups then you'd be good to go and fully recharged by morning.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:09 PM   #14
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I've been wondering about how much charge folks were getting from their solar while driving. So, it depends on the solar controller? The tow vehicle connection overrides it with some controllers?
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:21 PM   #15
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I've been wondering about how much charge folks were getting from their solar while driving. So, it depends on the solar controller? The tow vehicle connection overrides it with some controllers?
I think it's more a function of the voltage that's present at the battery. With the TV connected and running you have 13.x or some such, might signal the solar charger the batteries are full. I could be completely wrong too!
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:38 PM   #16
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I have 195W of solar panels and 232 amp-hours of battery capacity. After a typical five-hour drive towing in sunny weather with the fridge set on 12V, my trailer battery charge level declines about ten percent. I don't recall the output of my truck's alternator, but I've been told not to expect it to keep the trailer's batteries charged due to the distance from the truck's alternator to the rear of the Escape 21 where its batteries are located.
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:36 PM   #17
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After a typical five-hour drive towing in sunny weather with the fridge set on 12V, my trailer battery charge level declines about ten percent. I don't recall the output of my truck's alternator, but I've been told not to expect it to keep the trailer's batteries charged due to the distance from the truck's alternator to the rear of the Escape 21 where its batteries are located.
Right - I'm sure that the alternator has more than enough capacity. A fix would be a DC-to-DC charger mounted in the trailer, taking whatever is left at the end of the wire of the voltage the truck provides and converting it up to what the battery needs. I know I'm not the only one who has thought of this, but I don't know of anyone who has gone to the expense and effort of setting it up.
Examples: Matson/Powertrain, ProMar, Powerstream, Chargetek
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:41 PM   #18
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When I was contemplating getting a three-way fridge, Reace advised me that I would need a #10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge. I think the standard used is a #12.
Do you know what gauge your ground wire is?
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Old 03-12-2015, 04:41 PM   #19
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When I was contemplating getting a three-way fridge, Reace advised me that I would need a #10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge. I think the standard used is a #12.
Do you know what gauge your ground wire is?
No, I do not. When I hook up next time I'm going to measure the feed and report back. My truck has a complete tow package with tow mode and integral brake controller so I'm hoping they did the wiring correct.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:38 PM   #20
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"#10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge"
or a 10 gauge battery positive supply wire ??
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