Switching 12v to dual six volts - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-28-2015, 12:26 PM   #41
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I listen to the Vintage Airstream Podcast (I used to own a vintage trailer) and one of the hosts is a professional Airstream restorer. He said on one podcast that he had never seen a failure of solid wire in any age of Airstream. My vintage 1968 trailer also had solid wire and after 45 years, it all worked fine.
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:35 PM   #42
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I found a hydraulic crimping tool on Amazon for under $40.
...
Amazon Link
That looks a lot better suited to the wallet of a very occasional user! Of course, it's easy to go too cheap on tools and get something ineffective, but if this works and lasts for at least a few dozen connections, it looks like a great idea. Thanks Steve and Paul

Unfortunately, Amazon Canada doesn't list any similar low-priced tools.
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:01 PM   #43
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I understand the reasoning behind the stranded wire for use in a vehicle, but has anyone heard of the solid wire actually failing in a trailer? I would think there would have to be a heck of a lot of vibration to cause failure, and I can only image what else would fail on a trailer with the same effects on it. I pulled the old stuff out of the '76 Trillium I am working on, and it was in great shape. I just plan on replacing with new solid #14 wire, as I have lots on hand.
That's why I added "for those that prefer". I have no problem with solid wire for AC. Using stranded presents a problem with many receptacle & switch connections.
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Old 04-28-2015, 05:49 PM   #44
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Is there a problem with solid wire for DC?
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Old 04-28-2015, 06:18 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
That's why I added "for those that prefer". I have no problem with solid wire for AC. Using stranded presents a problem with many receptacle & switch connections.
I did catch that disclaimer.

I have just heard others say that any wire, in any moving vehicle should be stranded.
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Old 04-28-2015, 10:03 PM   #46
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Is there a problem with solid wire for DC?
No difference between commercial 50/60 Hz and DC. Use whichever you desire, as long as it meets the current carrying capacity for the load and round trip length.

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Old 04-28-2015, 11:26 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by bdornbush View Post
Is there a problem with solid wire for DC?
No more (or less) problem than with solid wire for AC... as long as the connectors (or terminals of devices) that you are using are suitable for solid wire.

Solid wire in larger sizes can be hard to work with, due to inflexibility (regardless of whether it is AC or DC), and 12 volt circuits carry ten times more current and thus need much thicker wire than a 120 volt circuit carrying the same power.
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Old 11-11-2015, 02:39 PM   #48
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My unit came with the 95 watt solar so you have that extra benefit. This was an attempt to try and run the refer off 12volts during daytime and even nights while towing. With the Zamp monitor I should be able to determine whether I'll need to add another solar panel to keep up with the discharge rate.
Not sure if it is due to the battery being a year old(with plenty of use) or the time of year, but with using the heater some in the morning and coffee maker(new appliance) we're seeing the monitor go to the 1/2 way mark- red light. checked water level and it's fine, so I guess it's time to go dual 6'ers too. Looks really easy to do; down to Costco I go. then an auto parts store for a short wire for wiring them in series. Should've gone that option to begin with looking back- the good news is Costco sells the same Interstate batteries and fortunately both 6V's will fit in the existing box.
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