Switching 12v to dual six volts - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 03-10-2015, 03:55 PM   #1
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Switching 12v to dual six volts

Well it finally warmed up to where I can start doing some modifications. Today I pull out my group 29 battery and installed dual 6 volt batteries. These were purchased at Sam's Club, $84/each, total a/h capacity has been increase from 126 to 215 or useable from 50 to 90, not quite doubling my reserve capacity. I'm also going to add another solar panel since my unit came with the 95 watt solar. Need to wait until it gets warmer to attach to the roof.
I had ordered the extra capacity group 29 with the trailer and because of it's size Escape installed the larger battery box and longer cables. The dual six volts fit perfectly. I removed the dinette seat and the old battery. First you have to remove the 2x4 wood inside the box, slide the battery over and unscrew the box from the floor. This allows you to lift the battery right out.
I installed the dual sixers in series as well as the new Zamp Battery Check which attaches to the negative terminal. Batterycheck - Wireless RV & Marine Battery Management.
There is an APP you download to your iPhone/Ipad for diagnostics. Total time 2 hours.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:43 PM   #2
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You must be an electrical engineer or better, right?
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:54 PM   #3
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Thanks Jim
I'm glad to see an interconnect cable of the proper gauge... and the use of the classic red-handled Robertson screwdriver.

I'm looking forward to the report on the BatteryCheck system after you have had a chance to work with it.
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Old 03-10-2015, 07:21 PM   #4
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Jim,

I'm wondering what wire gauges and their lengths were used . i.e. from
Solar panel to controller…..Controller to batteries….. Batteries to inverter ? And or converter. I believe the converter and it's housing is also the 12 v and 110 v distribution center ? I'm trying to get a good picture of the electric system layout in the 21.
Your battery monitor seems simpler than monitors that require a negative shunt to be installed.

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Old 03-10-2015, 07:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
... the new Zamp Battery Check which attaches to the negative terminal. Batterycheck - Wireless RV & Marine Battery Management.
There is an APP you download to your iPhone/Ipad for diagnostics.
The app is also available for Android devices, as well as Apple's iOS devices.

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Originally Posted by craiginpetaluma View Post
Your battery monitor seems simpler than monitors that require a negative shunt to be installed.
Well, that is a negative shunt... but the rest of the monitor is built right onto it, except for the display (for which you use a smartphone or other mobile device). More detailed discussion is in Upgrading your battery system...., starting at post #84.
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Old 03-10-2015, 08:32 PM   #6
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You must be an electrical engineer or better, right?
Nope, a retired government law officer. But I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express awhile ago......
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:16 PM   #7
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With over 50 days/nights with 160W solar/single 12V Group 29 we were down to 3/4 only once- otherwise full charge.
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:18 AM   #8
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That must be it!
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Old 03-11-2015, 01:21 AM   #9
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Nope, a retired government law officer. But I did sleep in a Holiday Inn Express awhile ago......
That must be it!
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Old 03-11-2015, 05:09 AM   #10
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With over 50 days/nights with 160W solar/single 12V Group 29 we were down to 3/4 only once- otherwise full charge.
My unit came with the 95 watt solar so you have that extra benefit. This was an attempt to try and run the refer off 12volts during daytime and even nights while towing. With the Zamp monitor I should be able to determine whether I'll need to add another solar panel to keep up with the discharge rate.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:01 AM   #11
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I have a different solar controller then you folks with the ETI install but when traveling I get 10 amps from the TV and nothing from the solar. It must sense the higher voltage from the TV and not output anything. Unfortunately the fridge uses 14 amps.
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Old 03-11-2015, 07:55 AM   #12
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That is news to me, one would think if the drain was 4 amps then the controller would allow charing o take place? Anyone else have any ideas on this issue. Still with a negative 4 amp draw one would be good for awhile on 12V? I'll have to check my input while hooked up with the stock Escape controller.
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:51 AM   #13
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I'll be interested to see what you get. At the end of a long day on the road I was down something like 30 amps. If you're stopping for the night somewhere with hookups then you'd be good to go and fully recharged by morning.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:09 PM   #14
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I've been wondering about how much charge folks were getting from their solar while driving. So, it depends on the solar controller? The tow vehicle connection overrides it with some controllers?
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:21 PM   #15
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I've been wondering about how much charge folks were getting from their solar while driving. So, it depends on the solar controller? The tow vehicle connection overrides it with some controllers?
I think it's more a function of the voltage that's present at the battery. With the TV connected and running you have 13.x or some such, might signal the solar charger the batteries are full. I could be completely wrong too!
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Old 03-11-2015, 10:38 PM   #16
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I have 195W of solar panels and 232 amp-hours of battery capacity. After a typical five-hour drive towing in sunny weather with the fridge set on 12V, my trailer battery charge level declines about ten percent. I don't recall the output of my truck's alternator, but I've been told not to expect it to keep the trailer's batteries charged due to the distance from the truck's alternator to the rear of the Escape 21 where its batteries are located.
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:36 PM   #17
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After a typical five-hour drive towing in sunny weather with the fridge set on 12V, my trailer battery charge level declines about ten percent. I don't recall the output of my truck's alternator, but I've been told not to expect it to keep the trailer's batteries charged due to the distance from the truck's alternator to the rear of the Escape 21 where its batteries are located.
Right - I'm sure that the alternator has more than enough capacity. A fix would be a DC-to-DC charger mounted in the trailer, taking whatever is left at the end of the wire of the voltage the truck provides and converting it up to what the battery needs. I know I'm not the only one who has thought of this, but I don't know of anyone who has gone to the expense and effort of setting it up.
Examples: Matson/Powertrain, ProMar, Powerstream, Chargetek
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:41 PM   #18
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When I was contemplating getting a three-way fridge, Reace advised me that I would need a #10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge. I think the standard used is a #12.
Do you know what gauge your ground wire is?
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Old 03-12-2015, 04:41 PM   #19
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When I was contemplating getting a three-way fridge, Reace advised me that I would need a #10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge. I think the standard used is a #12.
Do you know what gauge your ground wire is?
No, I do not. When I hook up next time I'm going to measure the feed and report back. My truck has a complete tow package with tow mode and integral brake controller so I'm hoping they did the wiring correct.
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Old 03-12-2015, 06:38 PM   #20
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"#10 ground wire from the tow vehicle to get enough power to the fridge"
or a 10 gauge battery positive supply wire ??
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