"Texas"fan option for refrigerator - Page 8 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 12-01-2013, 05:52 PM   #71
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I was thinking of having our bed raised in our 19 and having Reace install a Kegerator! Do you think there is enough room?
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Old 12-01-2013, 07:12 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Although they are presumably not individually controlled, they are at different temperatures.
Obviously I am coming across as not being too bright. I did know this, honestly.
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If the refrigerator section is at an acceptable temperature but meat is thawing in the freezer, I would want to know that. I find this happens with other RV refrigerators at the opposite extreme of ambient temperature: when it gets really cold outside, the refrigerator does not need to run much to keep the main compartment cool, and the freezer section thaws.
Keeping the fridge at just above freezing has always kept things frozen in the freezer, In many 100's of nights, we have never had an issue. If there was one, and you had to lower the temps to keep the freezer freezing, then the stuff in the fridge would freeze too.

Most of our camping is in colder temps, very often around freezing at night, and we have always been able to maintain frozen foods at that temp. An absorption refrigerator like RVs use, are always on at a constant level, so even when it gets colder outside, the fridge will still run the same amount, and in fact under these conditions things inside the fridge would get even colder. Your only control is the amount of heat that you use to heat the liquid mixture in the boiler, which in turn controls the amount of heat 'absorbed' from the fridge/freezer.

The biggest single thing we have done in maintaining fridge temperatures, aside from monitoring temps, is to use a fan inside to not allow cold spots, while evenly distributing the air in the fridge.

Sorry, I am a poor wordsmith, so may not make a lot of sense, but I really do understand how both absorption (RV) and compression (home) fridges work.
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Old 12-01-2013, 09:51 PM   #73
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Obviously I am coming across as not being too bright. I did know this, honestly.
LOL
No one's questioning that you're bright! Obviously everyone realizes they're at different temperatures.

It's just that a good temperature in one compartment does not mean a good temperature in the other.

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Most of our camping is in colder temps, very often around freezing at night, and we have always been able to maintain frozen foods at that temp.
As you know Jim, that's cold for camping, but not cold for Alberta in the winter...

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An absorption refrigerator like RVs use, are always on at a constant level, so even when it gets colder outside, the fridge will still run the same amount, and in fact under these conditions things inside the fridge would get even colder. Your only control is the amount of heat that you use to heat the liquid mixture in the boiler, which in turn controls the amount of heat 'absorbed' from the fridge/freezer.
No, the absorption RV refrigerators that I have cycle between a minimal flame and full flame (in the old one) or no flame and full flame (in the newer electronic ignition units, or when on electricity cycle power on and off... that's their heat control, so they don't run the same amount in varying ambient conditions. They do have temperature sensors, not just cycle timers. Our most recent piece of junk from Dometic (in our motorhome; presumably not the model in any Escape) has no adjustment at all - it uses an electronic sensor and varies to achieve it's own warped idea of a suitable interior temperature.

Because propane refrigerators need an outside exhaust (nothing to do with the absorption cycle), they are exposed to outside ambient conditions on the backside. That means in really cold weather they barely have to run at all to keep the main section cool enough... and so the freezer section thaws. This may only be noticeable in RVs which have more insulation (I have experienced this in two conventional with insulated walls), and not so much in our barely-insulated eggs.

Maybe this isn't an issue at high ambient temperatures. My point was just that success controlling temperature in one compartment does not automatically mean similar success in the other... and thus the logic of a dual temperature monitor.
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:04 PM   #74
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Maybe this isn't an issue at high ambient temperatures. My point was just that success controlling temperature in one compartment does not automatically mean similar success in the other... and thus the logic of a dual temperature monitor.
So, now that I've bought yet another device to cause me more stress by delivering even more numbers than I really need to know, what does one do with these numbers, since there is only one temp control for fridge and freezer? What's the fix? Assuming there is a problem?

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Old 12-01-2013, 10:46 PM   #75
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So, now that I've bought yet another device to cause me more stress by delivering even more numbers than I really need to know..
If there is no problem with the second compartment, you could then stop using the second sensor, and be happy that your stuff is sufficiently cold.

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what does one do with these numbers, since there is only one temp control for fridge and freezer?
I suggest turning the one control to whatever makes both parts cold enough. Of course that could make the other one too cold... which means a priority decision. Soft ice cream may be okay but the beer, of course, must not be frozen.

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What's the fix? Assuming there is a problem?
Perhaps there is no problem. If there is, the fix may be to give up on the freezer for anything that can't stand the occasional thaw... ice cubes for drinks refreeze okay.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:02 PM   #76
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Well, I still don't get it, but I do know this.
When you get to my age and you are stuck for ideas - it would make a great stocking stuffer.
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Old 12-01-2013, 11:15 PM   #77
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Dog with a bone here.
I've got a small digital (cheap) thermometer that lives in the fridge and I've used it to keep records, mostly temp at beginning of a trip and at the end of a five hour drive with the fridge turned off. Usually starting about 36F and sometimes rising to 45F on a hot day. Also used to monitor fridge temp while camped.
If my fridge temp is less than 42F ( as it should be for safe storage of food ), under what circumstances would the freezer be warm enough to thaw the contents?
As in, if I know that fridge is less than 42F, shouldn't the freezer be OK?
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:29 AM   #78
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Okay so bottom line here -- can we in general, figuring that we're not in extremely hot places -- count on the freezer to keep meat and fish frozen?
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:56 AM   #79
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Okay so bottom line here -- can we in general, figuring that we're not in extremely hot places -- count on the freezer to keep meat and fish frozen?
Ruth, it seems to have always worked fine for us. Maybe we just got lucky. It sounds like others here have been having problems with either the fridge or the freezer working right.

Our dog is raw feed, so we very often have meat frozen in there. We also make ice cubes with no troubles too.

Of course, hitting constant high temps like the Texans will find, is a whole nuther story. It sounds like they are stressing the capacity of these fridges to the max.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:19 AM   #80
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Since there are some of us who seem to know how these things work, I have often wondered, if operating off 120v, does the refer need an exhaust and fresh air intake. The reason I ask is, as some have already mentioned, in cold weather the refer is not as efficient as in more temperate climates. Would it not be good to cover the fresh air intake to (1) make the trailer warmer in colder climate and (2) help the refer? I realize this only applies to 120v operation.
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