"Texas"fan option for refrigerator

[cpaharley2008]

Highly recommend you get a set of these for the refer and freezer. It has a max and min so you can monitor the temperature upon arrival to determine if you had any issues while enroute. Also recommend using the lithium batteries for the freezer remote. ACU_RITE Refrigerator/Freezer Wireless Digital Thermometer 00986 : Amazon.com : Kitchen & Dining

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Highly recommend you get a set of these for the refer and freezer. It has a max and min so you can monitor the temperature upon arrival to determine if you had any issues while enroute. Also recommend using the lithium batteries for the freezer remote. ACU_RITE Refrigerator/Freezer Wireless Digital Thermometer 00986 : Amazon.com : Kitchen & Dining

Those are what we use and they work great.

[Jim Bennett]

What advantage is there is putting one in the freezer, seeing you can't control the temperatures in the fridge and freezer separate.

We just keep a simple manual read thermometer in the fridge compartment. It works just fine, we just have a quick glance when getting something out. Cheaper, simpler and less stuff lying about.

We keep a fan going inside and keep the temps a bit above freezing, and have never had an issue.

This is the $3 one we use. Click image for link.

[cpaharley2008]

What advantage is there is putting one in the freezer, seeing you can't control the temperatures in the fridge and freezer separate.

The issue being discussed is the efficiency of the refer during times of heat. Your freezer temperature will tell you if your unit is operating correctly. With the "Max" and "Min" one can evaluate temperature swings while towing or absent. If you determine that the freezer temperature increased then perhaps the flame went out or it was during the hot part of the day. then you could take measures to keep the temperature level.

[Jim Bennett]

I still see no advantage to using a freezer AND fridge thermometer. Or, do the new fridges allow for separate control.

We have monitored the temps while travelling (especially in hot climates), and have not noticed much for temp swings. A couple times after stopping the temp in the fridge was up by a degree or two, but we usually attribute that to the temp increases outside.

We do sometimes lower the fridge temp a bit when travelling when we expect temps to increase a lot during the day, and monitor more closely under these conditions. We have never had any issue with fridge temps not being low enough, even when in temps of 35°C (95°F), though were pretty close to the lowest setting.

Maybe we just got lucky using old thermometer technology.

[Donna D.]

Years ago, I purchased an 'elcheapo indoor/outdoor thermometer from Wally World. This was before wireless! I put the outdoor lead in the refrigerator, "pinching" the wire in the refer gasket and placed the controls on the counter above the refer. I like it! Can monitor the refrigerator without opening the door, can change the temperature control on the refrigerator up or down as needed. Easy peasy.

[cpaharley2008]

Donna,
With the new 5th you may need to upgrade to the digital wireless world some of your accessories…...

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

What advantage is there is putting one in the freezer, seeing you can't control the temperatures in the fridge and freezer separate.

Although they are presumably not individually controlled, they are at different temperatures. If the refrigerator section is at an acceptable temperature but meat is thawing in the freezer, I would want to know that. I find this happens with other RV refrigerators at the opposite extreme of ambient temperature: when it gets really cold outside, the refrigerator does not need to run much to keep the main compartment cool, and the freezer section thaws.

[PGDriver]

I use the same old thermometer Jim does, thats is when I can find it or bother to check it in the fridge, as for the freezer I use the tried and true old high tech method of leaving an ice cube loose in the corner. If it melts or partially melts I know I have a problem. We tend to keep our fridge FULL (if there is any spare room beer is inserted) and the temperature doesn't seem change much do the the thermal mass.

On a side note I think a wine cooler should be offered as an option... Tammy?

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by PGDriver

I use the same old thermometer Jim does, thats is when I can find it or bother to check it in the fridge, as for the freezer I use the tried and true old high tech method of leaving an ice cube loose in the corner. If it melts or partially melts I know I have a problem. We tend to keep our fridge FULL (if there is any spare room beer is inserted) and the temperature doesn't seem change much do the the thermal mass.

On a side note I think a wine cooler should be offered as an option... Tammy?

Hi: PGDriver... Our 5.0 came std. with a wine chiller. It's located under the bottom step to the loft, on the left side!!! Holds 4 bottles. Happy wife...etc. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[ADKzookeeper]

I was thinking of having our bed raised in our 19 and having Reace install a Kegerator! Do you think there is enough room?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Although they are presumably not individually controlled, they are at different temperatures.

Obviously I am coming across as not being too bright. I did know this, honestly.

If the refrigerator section is at an acceptable temperature but meat is thawing in the freezer, I would want to know that. I find this happens with other RV refrigerators at the opposite extreme of ambient temperature: when it gets really cold outside, the refrigerator does not need to run much to keep the main compartment cool, and the freezer section thaws.

Keeping the fridge at just above freezing has always kept things frozen in the freezer, In many 100's of nights, we have never had an issue. If there was one, and you had to lower the temps to keep the freezer freezing, then the stuff in the fridge would freeze too.

Most of our camping is in colder temps, very often around freezing at night, and we have always been able to maintain frozen foods at that temp. An absorption refrigerator like RVs use, are always on at a constant level, so even when it gets colder outside, the fridge will still run the same amount, and in fact under these conditions things inside the fridge would get even colder. Your only control is the amount of heat that you use to heat the liquid mixture in the boiler, which in turn controls the amount of heat 'absorbed' from the fridge/freezer.

The biggest single thing we have done in maintaining fridge temperatures, aside from monitoring temps, is to use a fan inside to not allow cold spots, while evenly distributing the air in the fridge.

Sorry, I am a poor wordsmith, so may not make a lot of sense, but I really do understand how both absorption (RV) and compression (home) fridges work.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Obviously I am coming across as not being too bright. I did know this, honestly.

LOL
No one's questioning that you're bright! Obviously everyone realizes they're at different temperatures.

It's just that a good temperature in one compartment does not mean a good temperature in the other.

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Most of our camping is in colder temps, very often around freezing at night, and we have always been able to maintain frozen foods at that temp.

As you know Jim, that's cold for camping, but not cold for Alberta in the winter...

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

An absorption refrigerator like RVs use, are always on at a constant level, so even when it gets colder outside, the fridge will still run the same amount, and in fact under these conditions things inside the fridge would get even colder. Your only control is the amount of heat that you use to heat the liquid mixture in the boiler, which in turn controls the amount of heat 'absorbed' from the fridge/freezer.

No, the absorption RV refrigerators that I have cycle between a minimal flame and full flame (in the old one) or no flame and full flame (in the newer electronic ignition units, or when on electricity cycle power on and off... that's their heat control, so they don't run the same amount in varying ambient conditions. They do have temperature sensors, not just cycle timers. Our most recent piece of junk from Dometic (in our motorhome; presumably not the model in any Escape) has no adjustment at all - it uses an electronic sensor and varies to achieve it's own warped idea of a suitable interior temperature.

Because propane refrigerators need an outside exhaust (nothing to do with the absorption cycle), they are exposed to outside ambient conditions on the backside. That means in really cold weather they barely have to run at all to keep the main section cool enough... and so the freezer section thaws. This may only be noticeable in RVs which have more insulation (I have experienced this in two conventional with insulated walls), and not so much in our barely-insulated eggs.

Maybe this isn't an issue at high ambient temperatures. My point was just that success controlling temperature in one compartment does not automatically mean similar success in the other... and thus the logic of a dual temperature monitor.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Maybe this isn't an issue at high ambient temperatures. My point was just that success controlling temperature in one compartment does not automatically mean similar success in the other... and thus the logic of a dual temperature monitor.

So, now that I've bought yet another device to cause me more stress by delivering even more numbers than I really need to know, what does one do with these numbers, since there is only one temp control for fridge and freezer? What's the fix? Assuming there is a problem?

baglo

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

So, now that I've bought yet another device to cause me more stress by delivering even more numbers than I really need to know..

If there is no problem with the second compartment, you could then stop using the second sensor, and be happy that your stuff is sufficiently cold.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

what does one do with these numbers, since there is only one temp control for fridge and freezer?

I suggest turning the one control to whatever makes both parts cold enough. Of course that could make the other one too cold... which means a priority decision. Soft ice cream may be okay but the beer, of course, must not be frozen.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What's the fix? Assuming there is a problem?

Perhaps there is no problem. If there is, the fix may be to give up on the freezer for anything that can't stand the occasional thaw... ice cubes for drinks refreeze okay.

[gbaglo]

Well, I still don't get it, but I do know this.
When you get to my age and you are stuck for ideas - it would make a great stocking stuffer.

[gbaglo]

Dog with a bone here.
I've got a small digital (cheap) thermometer that lives in the fridge and I've used it to keep records, mostly temp at beginning of a trip and at the end of a five hour drive with the fridge turned off. Usually starting about 36F and sometimes rising to 45F on a hot day. Also used to monitor fridge temp while camped.
If my fridge temp is less than 42F ( as it should be for safe storage of food ), under what circumstances would the freezer be warm enough to thaw the contents?
As in, if I know that fridge is less than 42F, shouldn't the freezer be OK?

[Ruthe]

Okay so bottom line here -- can we in general, figuring that we're not in extremely hot places -- count on the freezer to keep meat and fish frozen?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Ruthe

Okay so bottom line here -- can we in general, figuring that we're not in extremely hot places -- count on the freezer to keep meat and fish frozen?

Ruth, it seems to have always worked fine for us. Maybe we just got lucky. It sounds like others here have been having problems with either the fridge or the freezer working right.

Our dog is raw feed, so we very often have meat frozen in there. We also make ice cubes with no troubles too.

Of course, hitting constant high temps like the Texans will find, is a whole nuther story. It sounds like they are stressing the capacity of these fridges to the max.

[cpaharley2008]

Since there are some of us who seem to know how these things work, I have often wondered, if operating off 120v, does the refer need an exhaust and fresh air intake. The reason I ask is, as some have already mentioned, in cold weather the refer is not as efficient as in more temperate climates. Would it not be good to cover the fresh air intake to (1) make the trailer warmer in colder climate and (2) help the refer? I realize this only applies to 120v operation.