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Old 05-13-2013, 08:08 PM   #1
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The Dark Side aka Curtains

Last year's rally was the first time I had actually slept in our trailer.
I found the "glow" through the blinds to be a bit more than I like for sleeping purposes. Not being the sewing type, I thought I would simply buy some blackout drapes and get them altered for length. Turns out that would be a costly venture so I headed to Walmart, bought an inexpensive sewing machine and tackled it myself. I just wanted to be able to draw them at night to block the light but I think they look pretty good even just stacked in the corners.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:20 PM   #2
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nice work, can you describe how they are attached?
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:27 PM   #3
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These look great! Can you please give a little more detail (& possibly a couple zoomed in pictures) on the way you attached them? My trailer is a 2005 so it has miniblinds instead of cellular shades, and curtains are high on my list but I've been drawing a blank when it comes to attaching them.
Thanks!
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:55 PM   #4
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I think they look wonderful! I wonder if you had as many laughs making them as I did cutting strips and sewing them together to make the case for the body pillow on my bed. What a hoot that was...and I'm a serious sewer.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:22 PM   #5
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What y'all doing sleeping when it is daylight out anyway?

I usually try to get my 5-6 hours sleep during the dark hours, though light doesn't bother me much anyway. The missus gets her 8+ hours regardless of light levels too.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:06 PM   #6
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I just noticed that you changed the front panel on your refrigerator. What is it and how did you do it?
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:06 PM   #7
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The Dark Side aka Curtains!

I used the Kvartal track, corners and ceiling mounts from Ikea. I didn’t bother with any use the runners or hooks, but they are available if your drapes need to be hung that way. I chose Kvartal specifically because it’s aluminum and weighs next to nothing. The rails are attached under the cabinet via the ceiling mount – a small screw goes inside the mount and into the cabinet. My husband checked the mounting screws for the under- cabinet lights as we knew these were securely mounted. We bought the same length wood screws 3/4” No. 8 to attach the mounts. There is a double wood layer in the bottom of the cabinets, with a gap in between for the wiring to the lights. We set the track back so we wouldn’t screw into any wiring. The track is about ¾“ in front of the cellular blinds, just enough to provide clearance when the drapes are pulled. The ceiling mounts were placed in each corner, the middle and at each end of the track because once hung, the drapes wouldn’t be able to go past the mounts.
I purchased drapes with a thin foam blackout layer on the back because they were super light (easy to hem). They came with hidden loops on the back side and that’s how they hang on the rods. They move easily and there is no weight on the cabinets.


The mounts could also be attached by drilling through the underside and into the inside of the cabinet then using a nut, washer and bolt to attach the mounts. It could limit your mount locations as some parts of the upper cabinets are inaccessible. Since our setup is so light weight, we didn't need to do it that way.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:17 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarenH View Post
I just noticed that you changed the front panel on your refrigerator. What is it and how did you do it?
Karen. That's one of the first things I changed - didn't like the wood-looking panel. I used two plastic panels that are usually used for back splashes. I wanted some texture to connect with the stainless steel. I also painted out the cover for the furnace with a heat safe paint for the same reasons.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:36 PM   #9
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It's very striking...I like it. I am going to paint the furnace cover, too, and had thought about the refer panel but had only looked at the manufacturer's inserts. Good idea!
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:11 AM   #10
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Thank you! It looks like your back window has two fabric panels that open in the middle; are the side window panels single or also two? Are you using two corner pieces and four track pieces (two on the back, possibly cut down, and one on each side)? Sorry for all the questions, but my nearest Ikea is an hour away so I don't want to have to go more than once!
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:37 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillary View Post
Thank you! It looks like your back window has two fabric panels that open in the middle; are the side window panels single or also two? Are you using two corner pieces and four track pieces (two on the back, possibly cut down, and one on each side)? Sorry for all the questions, but my nearest Ikea is an hour away so I don't want to have to go more than once!


We have a 2011 17B - Maybe the dimensions are the same?

For the large dinette, I used 3 tracks and 2 corners. The tracks are 55" long so the back was a full piece plus the corners added on and the side pieces I cut down to about 37". For the small dinette, I was able to use the 2 leftover pieces for the sides and needed one full track plus corners for the wide front window. Total: I used 4 full size rails @ 55" long, 10 ceiling mounts (5 for each dinette) and 4 corners (2 for each dinette) plus the screws.

It's easier if two "patient" people do it. You want to put the track together for a test run and don't want to twist the tracks. Someone needs to hold it up with the mounts on the track and spaced where you want them. Mark where center is on the cabinet underside and on the track so you have a reference point. We put light masking tape in those areas so we could holdup the track and pencil around the mounts to mark the locations. After determining this, you can attach the mounts. We used an awl to start the hole then simply screwed them in. The mounts are attached to the crack and tightened with a small allen key (included).

The track sections also come with joiner plates and end caps. We started with the center mount to ensure we had equal spacing on the sides from the blinds. If you slide your drapery panel on before attaching the next mount, you may find it easier. We attached the rods first then loosened the mounts from the tracks so we could slide the panels on.

I used 2 panels for each wide window and a single panel for the sides. This will vary depending on your panel width. I bought mine at Jysk (Olivia blackout panels) but if you're a sewing person, you could probably do it a lot better and cheaper. The track system, with all the parts was around $130+. Not a cheap solution but it looks good.

By the way, I used elastic with velcro on the ends for the tiebacks. I got them at the dollar store, 2 in a pack. The vinyl corners in the trailer are overlayed so I was able to just slip the tiebacks behind and bring them through - no attaching to the vinyl needed. It also keeps the drapes tucked in the corner. You could also sew a tieback directly on the drapes themselves.
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:03 AM   #12
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I notice you didn't have the valences to contend with. Is your Escape pre valence or did you remove them?
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
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I notice you didn't have the valences to contend with. Is your Escape pre valence or did you remove them?

Yes it was Pre Valance but I had planned for curtains before we got our Escape. I originally thought of using a cable system for the drapes but determined the tension required couldn't work with the cabinets light construction. The valances do look nice on those with just the blinds as they cover up the otherwise plain head rail.

I'm also attaching velcro to the sink window's head rail so a matching fabric panel can be hung there if needed. I don't want a permanent curtain there as it would be in the way. I also am making a removable panel for the door's window and a small night cover for the radio. My husband finds the blue light from it to be excessively bright at night - according to the manufacturer, there's no way to dim it. Luckily I have lots of fabric left over from when I shortened the panels.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I think they look wonderful! I wonder if you had as many laughs making them as I did cutting strips and sewing them together to make the case for the body pillow on my bed. What a hoot that was...and I'm a serious sewer.


Well, luckily it wasn't too sophisticated a job. When they turned out reasonably well, my husband's first comment was "Good, now I don't have to pay to get my zipper fixed!" Hah! Little did he know, I never did figure out how to use that automatic threader - I had to do it the old fashioned way! I'm comfortable using my woodworking tools but (pardon the pun) most domestic type duties escape me!
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Old 05-14-2013, 09:10 PM   #15
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Because I don't sew, I looked for another solution a few months ago. I remembered using
a company called Easy Curtain to make a privacy curtain for the front window of a van I once had, so I gave them a call. I forwarded all window measurements provided by Escape for the 17B and they agreed to make individual black out panels, for what I thought was a very reasonable fee, for every window in my trailer. With this solution I can cover some or all of the windows whenever I want. The panels attach by velcro to the interior window frames. I can't provide pictures for a while as the panels are in storage awaiting my trip to Chilliwack. The web address is easycurtain.net or just Google easy curtain.
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Old 05-14-2013, 10:03 PM   #16
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Awesome, I think our measurements are close if not the same, but I will definitely measure mine. I just needed a little help visualizing to make sure I wasn't seeing it wrong in my head before buying pieces! $130 doesn't seem crazy to me, though if anyone has any ideas on how to do it cheaper but also look as nice and be as functional, I'm all ears. My old sewing machine is biting the dust, but for this (and a couple other projects currently on hold) it might be worth picking a new one up!
When I was trying to conceptualize the easiest way to attach window blackout covers/curtains, I thought about magnets for the top to attach to the miniblind header, with buttons on the bottom to clip through the little elastic loops already there to hold the miniblind bottoms. I still can't tell if that would work, but if it did I don't think it would look this nice!
I hate miniblinds!
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Old 05-15-2013, 12:36 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBaranyai View Post
My husband finds the blue light from it to be excessively bright at night - according to the manufacturer, there's no way to dim it.
On my unit I can turn the display (touch screen) off even if it's still playing music or whatever. I'm wondering if you might not be able to do that on yours?
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Old 05-15-2013, 01:37 AM   #18
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[QUOTE=Carol R;25927]Because I don't sew, I looked for another solution a few months ago. I remembered using
a company called Easy Curtain to make a privacy curtain for the front window of a van I once had, so I gave them a call.


Yes, I looked at them too. A co-worker recommended them - he'd ordered blackout panels from them for his sleeping bay when he owned a semi truck and trailer. He was quite pleased with the product and considered them an absolute necessity when he was a long haul driver.
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Old 05-15-2013, 02:00 AM   #19
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On my unit I can turn the display (touch screen) off even if it's still playing music or whatever. I'm wondering if you might not be able to do that on yours? __________________
Karen





Unfortunately this unit doesn't have that option - even when off, the time display is quite bright. Makes a good night light for middle of the night bathroom trips! And if it's too bright, I just face the wall!

However, Ted is the primary user of the trailer. He only sets up the single bed when he travels. He like to keep the large dinette available for fly tying and stuff. He also likes to sleep with his head on the door side so of course, he's facing the radio! For some reason he doesn't like facing the other way (?) so that's why I'm making a night privacy flap for the radio.
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:51 AM   #20
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Wow, sounds like a lot of figuring and work. How much do you charge?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBaranyai View Post

We have a 2011 17B - Maybe the dimensions are the same?

For the large dinette, I used 3 tracks and 2 corners. The tracks are 55" long so the back was a full piece plus the corners added on and the side pieces I cut down to about 37". For the small dinette, I was able to use the 2 leftover pieces for the sides and needed one full track plus corners for the wide front window. Total: I used 4 full size rails @ 55" long, 10 ceiling mounts (5 for each dinette) and 4 corners (2 for each dinette) plus the screws.

It's easier if two "patient" people do it. You want to put the track together for a test run and don't want to twist the tracks. Someone needs to hold it up with the mounts on the track and spaced where you want them. Mark where center is on the cabinet underside and on the track so you have a reference point. We put light masking tape in those areas so we could holdup the track and pencil around the mounts to mark the locations. After determining this, you can attach the mounts. We used an awl to start the hole then simply screwed them in. The mounts are attached to the crack and tightened with a small allen key (included).

The track sections also come with joiner plates and end caps. We started with the center mount to ensure we had equal spacing on the sides from the blinds. If you slide your drapery panel on before attaching the next mount, you may find it easier. We attached the rods first then loosened the mounts from the tracks so we could slide the panels on.

I used 2 panels for each wide window and a single panel for the sides. This will vary depending on your panel width. I bought mine at Jysk (Olivia blackout panels) but if you're a sewing person, you could probably do it a lot better and cheaper. The track system, with all the parts was around $130+. Not a cheap solution but it looks good.

By the way, I used elastic with velcro on the ends for the tiebacks. I got them at the dollar store, 2 in a pack. The vinyl corners in the trailer are overlayed so I was able to just slip the tiebacks behind and bring them through - no attaching to the vinyl needed. It also keeps the drapes tucked in the corner. You could also sew a tieback directly on the drapes themselves.
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