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Old 01-09-2019, 11:19 AM   #21
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Since I was installing a cabinet door and opening to the left of the entry door and under the flip-up counter extension, I could reach some wires that run down beside the door frame.

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Old 01-09-2019, 11:42 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327 View Post
Pat/Ron: Where did you grab 12V power for the relocated CO/propane detector? I'm not aware of anything on the galley side down low or maybe I just haven't looked hard enough. Thanks.

Inquired with Escape for the 12" x 11" door. Unfortunately the doors I removed from the upper front cabinet when I installed my mini-split are too wide.
Dave since I opened up the whole area where wheels were , the wood is just glued and stapled , you can tap off the 12 volt wiring you will see in that space . I believe the wiring for us was for the 12 volt switches at the doorway or kitchen light . Escape had used red and black .I also put spade connections on wires to make easy to change the detector in future. Pat
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Old 01-09-2019, 01:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Since I was installing a cabinet door and opening to the left of the entry door and under the flip-up counter extension, I could reach some wires that run down beside the door frame.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Dave since I opened up the whole area where wheels were , the wood is just glued and stapled , you can tap off the 12 volt wiring you will see in that space . I believe the wiring for us was for the 12 volt switches at the doorway or kitchen light. Escape had used red and black. I also put spade connections on wires to make easy to change the detector in future. Pat
Thanks guys. The older trailers don't have any switches by the door, but I will hopefully find something to tap into down in that space.
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Old 01-09-2019, 03:38 PM   #24
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Thanks guys. The older trailers don't have any switches by the door, but I will hopefully find something to tap into down in that space.
Sorry Dave . If you have a kitchen light , the chase in the doorway would let you run wires down , it is pretty roomy in there . I am sure you will figure something out . Pat
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:17 PM   #25
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I found that the 3 switches by the front door in my 2018 only had hot wires being switched. When I installed the LEDs I had to get a ground from the rear of the new flush stove. I would think trailers with the older stoves would not have any ground wires in the area.
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Old 01-09-2019, 09:23 PM   #26
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I found that the 3 switches by the front door in my 2018 only had hot wires being switched. When I installed the LEDs I had to get a ground from the rear of the new flush stove. I would think trailers with the older stoves would not have any ground wires in the area.
Guess we were lucky with 2 wires to tap in ,on a 2013 . Having switches at the doorway was something we requested for our build . Pat
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:17 AM   #27
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There are lots of wires at the rear bulkhead end of the counter and if you're opening up the panel you'll have easy access to them.

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Old 01-10-2019, 07:35 AM   #28
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Inquired with Escape for the 12" x 11" door. Unfortunately the doors I removed from the upper front cabinet when I installed my mini-split are too wide.
Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:23 AM   #29
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Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
Yes, and for others who may be comparison shopping, the $72 US includes the hardware of hinges, handle and screws.
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:28 AM   #30
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Dave,
If you want to pay for the door I can get it for you when we pick the trailer up right before the rally in May. York is not that far from you then. Let me know your decision.
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Old 01-10-2019, 09:30 AM   #31
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Yes, and for others who may be comparison shopping, the $72 US includes the hardware of hinges, handle and screws.

Thank you Steve. I didn't mention it, but I did ask for it quoted with hardware.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:28 PM   #32
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Dave,
If you want to pay for the door I can get it for you when we pick the trailer up right before the rally in May. York is not that far from you then. Let me know your decision.
Jim: Thank you. That is a very nice offer. Let me see if I can modify the 8"x15" door I have on hand first and I will let you know.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:38 PM   #33
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Escape has a 12-3/4" H x 11" W door. They quoted me $60 with $35 shipping. Since this is CAD that is ~$72 US. At that price I am going to first look at the feasibility of cutting out a middle section from the spare upper cabinet doors I have and glue it back together. I believe it is already the right height. I just need to reduce the width.
I think I would cut center of the existing end joint (in red) carefull to stop once through the outer frame. Then reinstall the end board with screws and glue once the center board had been cut to size.

Or for those that don’t have a spare door...go to a used building supply store and buy a vent. Then paint to the colour of your choice. This NuTone one is a nice size at 8.5 w x 10.5 h ...probably from a bathroom fan. This one is aluminium so you would have to use double sided tape to hold on the little steal plates that come with magnetic latches to hold it on secretly. A fake knob in the middle that original held it on would make for a good handle to remove it. Everyone will be impressed that your Escape came with ducked heating.
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Old 01-10-2019, 01:47 PM   #34
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I think I would cut center of the existing end joint (in red) careful to stop once through the outer frame. Then reinstall the end board with screws and glue once the center board had been cut to size.
That is exactly what I will do. Thanks!
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Old 01-10-2019, 02:06 PM   #35
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That is exactly what I will do. Thanks!
Dave if you can get your hands on a biscuit joiner , makes a strong real attachment . Maybe harbor freight or you know someone . Pat
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:36 PM   #36
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Doing some design contemplation prior to cutting my way in...
On an E19-Gen2, what is the footprint size wall to wall of the space under the heater please? Besides wire, which can be extended, is there anything else to be dealt with or which limits width or depth?
Thanks! Doug
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:18 PM   #37
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The best thing to do is remove the detector and look in the hole yourself.

On my 2018 there is a gas line to the left and a sewer pipe to the right. To get the largest opening the door would be taller than wider.

If you can wait...there will be a full write up in Modifications to Eggscape by this time next week. I would suggest that anyone with a late model drag their feet and not order a door or cut any holes just yet.
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:36 PM   #38
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Thank you. I shall await your posting and photos.
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:50 AM   #39
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Just remember, each Escape can be a little different. Sometimes it can be an installers change, sometimes it is a measurement change, but each one is hand made inside.
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