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Old 04-26-2016, 09:45 AM   #1
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Toilet Shutoff Valve

Still working on Build Sheet. Why would we need a toilet shutoff valve?
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Old 04-26-2016, 09:52 AM   #2
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Still working on Build Sheet. Why would we need a toilet shutoff valve?
In case the toilet valve breaks... you'll fill up your black water tank in short order (overflow!... ) With the shutoff valve, you can still use the rest of the water system without water going to the toilet.
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:11 AM   #3
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I'm increasingly of the opinion that a shut-off valve is good idea at every faucet...just like your home. I had leak under the galley sink that fortunately was just a loose connection, but a bad seal on a faucet could spell trouble.
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Old 04-26-2016, 01:08 PM   #4
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I'm increasingly of the opinion that a shut-off valve is good idea at every faucet...just like your home. I had leak under the galley sink that fortunately was just a loose connection, but a bad seal on a faucet could spell trouble.
Santacruzer , I was thinking the same thing . What if I used the shark bite on the plex after I cut it ,and put on 1/2.shut off just like I did to toilet valve under kitchen sink ? Pat
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:04 PM   #5
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Santacruzer , I was thinking the same thing . What if I used the shark bite on the plex after I cut it ,and put on 1/2.shut off just like I did to toilet valve under kitchen sink ? Pat
You'd need both hot and cold shut-offs. And, talking this to the extreme, one might want to consider the outside shower (if you have it) and the bathroom sink. Pretty big project after the fact. I think if I was ordering the trailer new, I'd ask ETI to install them. Haven't looked at the location situation for outside shower and bathroom sink, probably a major PITA.
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:09 PM   #6
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You'd need both hot and cold shut-offs. And, talking this to the extreme, one might want to consider the outside shower (if you have it) and the bathroom sink. Pretty big project after the fact. I think if I was ordering the trailer new, I'd ask ETI to install them. Haven't looked at the location situation for outside shower and bathroom sink, probably a major PITA.
I know but under the kitchen sink is easy . Yep got the outside shower . Got to look at shower . If all theses shut offs are installed then trailer will be just like a submarine ! Pat
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:14 PM   #7
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Why not just shut off the water at the source?
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:18 PM   #8
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Why not just shut off the water at the source?
The main reason would be to isolate one fixture in the event of failure, leaving the rest of them to be still usable. As there is little likelihood of failure to the sinks, I would not worry too much, but I know I when my toilet valve broke, I could not use any water until I fixed it, and installed a shut-off, which of course, I never had to use after that.
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Old 04-26-2016, 02:45 PM   #9
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In the case of my galley sink leak, it was fortunate that I had a cooking pot sitting upright under the connection, otherwise the water would have been all over the interior, probably warping and swelling everything. It was also fortunate that I happened to look for the pot when I did...before it overflowed. Lesson learned. Given the connection for the outside shower, behind a box in the closet, I might have a leak and never know it, unless I saw it dripping out under the trailer through a weep hole.
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Old 04-26-2016, 03:56 PM   #10
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If one has a spare toilet valve in their take along parts kit, it's a 30 minute job or less to change out so the water wouldn't be off for long. I've never really had a failure at any of the other areas and most of those would be a simple fix as well, unless it was inside a wall and camp out is probably terminated at that point.
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Old 04-26-2016, 04:39 PM   #11
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It is not the part normally but the tools needed for the repair.
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:16 PM   #12
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After taking the toilet out, and looking at the flush assembly, I decided it would be worth the $40 or so to carry a spare, along with the spare water pump. Both can be replaced with basic tools, which I carry anyway as a matter of course. I even carry a spare length of plastic hose, and hose clamps.
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:29 PM   #13
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In the case of my galley sink leak, it was fortunate that I had a cooking pot sitting upright under the connection, otherwise the water would have been all over the interior, probably warping and swelling everything. It was also fortunate that I happened to look for the pot when I did...before it overflowed. Lesson learned. Given the connection for the outside shower, behind a box in the closet, I might have a leak and never know it, unless I saw it dripping out under the trailer through a weep hole.
Glad you caught it in time . Pat
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:34 PM   #14
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After taking the toilet out, and looking at the flush assembly, I decided it would be worth the $40 or so to carry a spare, along with the spare water pump. Both can be replaced with basic tools, which I carry anyway as a matter of course. I even carry a spare length of plastic hose, and hose clamps.
I tend to agree. If the valve goes bad, you are going to have to replace it anyway, so why not do it on the spot. It's really not a difficult procedure.
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Old 04-26-2016, 06:15 PM   #15
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A good reason to turn your pump off when leaving your trailer for any length of time. We have had the toilet valve and kitchen sink faucet (temporary fix with duct tape) fail. The upside is, it's easy to tell when something is leaking when your pump cycles on and off. Scott

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Old 04-27-2016, 08:46 AM   #16
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I tend to agree. If the valve goes bad, you are going to have to replace it anyway, so why not do it on the spot. It's really not a difficult procedure.
That depends on your particular Escape model. We had to replace the valve in our 5.0 Classic and it was a major deal. There was simply NO room to reach behind the toilet and get to the connections so we had to break the toilet loose and remove it. That meant we had to cut the PVC that feeds to toilet from inside the hatch, break out the sealants that sealed the pvc as it went through the wall into the commode area and remove the toilet completely. When we put it all back together, we used the sharkbite connections in the hatch area so we would more easily get the toilet out if the repair was ever needed again.

It's best to check out your particular configuration and make sure you have enough room to work in there! I have heard that Escape has changed the installation to used flexible piping to the commode instead of rigid pvc, making this a bit more convenient!
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:18 AM   #17
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I needed to do some repair of 1/2" PEX in our greenhouse and resisted buying the professional crimper for PEX. After some exploration I found a much less expensive method for making PEX connections. Cinch Clamps They are installed with a fairly inexpensive tool like this one: Fastening Tool The reviews on Amazon for both the clamps and tool are highly positive and convinced me to give it a try. The tool must be carefully calibrated before use, but is a fairly simple process.

So far not a single one of the PEX connections I have done with this method have leaked. I've not needed to do one on the trailer, which of course, is subject to a lot more vibration than our greenhouse.
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:00 AM   #18
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That depends on your particular Escape model. We had to replace the valve in our 5.0 Classic and it was a major deal. There was simply NO room to reach behind the toilet and get to the connections so we had to break the toilet loose and remove it. That meant we had to cut the PVC that feeds to toilet from inside the hatch, break out the sealants that sealed the pvc as it went through the wall into the commode area and remove the toilet completely. When we put it all back together, we used the sharkbite connections in the hatch area so we would more easily get the toilet out if the repair was ever needed again.

It's best to check out your particular configuration and make sure you have enough room to work in there! I have heard that Escape has changed the installation to used flexible piping to the commode instead of rigid pvc, making this a bit more convenient!
Same here and I wouldn't be carrying the tools I needed , etc. had to remove our toilet and cut in plex . Glad it's done now . Pat
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Old 04-27-2016, 11:56 AM   #19
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I don't know about the "older" Escapes, but the toilet in my 2015 5.0TA is relatively easy to remove. Take off two caps, remove nuts on either side and lean toilet forward. Disconnect supply line. While I haven't had to replace the valve, the connection did have to be tightened due to a small leak. Looking at Thetford's schematic, it looks as if the valve could be replaced in short order, with minimal tools. My take, anyway.
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Old 04-27-2016, 12:10 PM   #20
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I don't know about the "older" Escapes, but the toilet in my 2015 5.0TA is relatively easy to remove. Take off two caps, remove nuts on either side and lean toilet forward. Disconnect supply line. While I haven't had to replace the valve, the connection did have to be tightened due to a small leak. Looking at Thetford's schematic, it looks as if the valve could be replaced in short order, with minimal tools. My take, anyway.
Carl for our trailer , removing the toilet and if you needed to replace valve is very easy . But from what I have seen the water lines to the toilet are different , all are not the same . Because I couldn't put my shutoff where others could . I needed items I don't normally have on hand . Tools I don't carry , cleaner to remove caulking I don't carry . In other words you don't know what you need until you have to fix it . It seems there is no set standard for installing these lines to toilet . I expected to be able to fix my line as other 19 ft 's within months of my same 2013 19 . Well that wasn't the case . Pat
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