Tongue Jack with 3/4" Socket Drive - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-16-2016, 01:01 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by msweet View Post
Figured converting the tongue jack to the same drive setup as the stabilizers would make setup that much faster!
Although the easiest conversion will likely be to hex headed shaft (such as a bolt), I don't think it matters much what size the hex is... different sockets for the stabilizers and for the tongue jack wouldn't be too bad.

Whether the jacks are driven by hex sockets, or directly by a 3/8" square drive, the tool would still need the square drive. An cordless impact wrench usually has a square drive end (I have one of those), a non-impact driver or small impact driver usually has a 1/4" hex socket for bits and 3/8 square to 1/4 hex adapters are readily available, and a drill has a chuck which can take the same adapter. So, you have a choice of power tools, as long as the choice has enough torque and power.
Edit: improved description of power tool types

If the solution has a square drive, a flex (universal) joint would be a good addition. For this purpose, it needs to be a power-drive or impact joint, not the basic hand-tool joint.
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:47 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Although the easiest conversion will likely be to hex headed shaft (such as a bolt), I don't think it matters much what size the hex is... different sockets for the stabilizers and for the tongue jack wouldn't be too bad.



Whether the jacks are driven by hex sockets, or directly by a 3/8" square drive, the tool would still need the square drive. An impact driver has a square drive end, a non-impact driver usually has a 1/4" hex socket for bits and 3/8 square to 1/4 hex adapters are readily available, and a drill has a chuck which can take the same adapter. So, you have a choice of power tools, as long as the choice has enough torque and power.



If the solution has a square drive, a flex (universal) joint would be a good addition. For this purpose, it needs to be a power-drive or impact joint, not the basic hand-tool joint.

I have a cordless impact driver that takes a 1/4" hex shank. It is intended for driving screws, etc using driver bits. I bought a pack of 1/4" hex to 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" square adapters. I use the 1/4" hex to 1/2" square with a 3/4" socket for the stabilizer jacks.

As you mentioned it would be easy to switch the socket or the hex adapter to suit whichever solution works. The risk would be losing that 2nd socket at the bottom of the storage box...




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Old 09-16-2016, 08:29 AM   #13
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I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled. I ended up purchasing a jack with a removable handle because that was the point where the tailgate would interfere. Later on I purchased and still use the Jack_E-UP system.
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Old 09-16-2016, 03:52 PM   #14
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I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled. I ended up purchasing a jack with a removable handle because that was the point where the tailgate would interfere. Later on I purchased and still use the Jack_E-UP system.
Thanks for the caution!

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Old 09-16-2016, 06:53 PM   #15
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Michael, I've attached a few photos of a similar thing I fabricated to make detachable front corner stabilizers for our EggCamper. The jacks I used are pipe-mount, removable top crank. I simply pulled the bolt to remove the original top handle, drilled two holes in a short piece of 1/2" pipe, and sawed off a bolt and drilled a hole through it. My plan was to use a portable 90 degree drill to crank it up and down, but for stabilizing, I can simply use my fingers to tighten it. In the last photo, I made a PVC cap to keep rain and heavy dew out of the jack. Dale
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC04528.jpg (144.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg DSC04531.jpg (140.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg DSC06940.jpg (154.9 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg DSC06941.jpg (154.9 KB, 11 views)
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Old 09-16-2016, 09:01 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
I tried to take mine apart awhile back and the jack I had could not be reassembled.
Was it the same design as shown in this thread? The instruction manual for the Bulldog (and Pro Series) brand equivalent shows those two bolts and the top cover removed for routine lubrication, as shown in the image attached below.

If the pin which holds the gear on the crank shaft is driven out it could be quite difficult to replace, although that pin is provided as part of the replacement crank kit.
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File Type: jpg BulldogJackLubrication.JPG (13.3 KB, 97 views)
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:11 AM   #17
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Yes, that looks familiar, some of the pieces are held in place with bent metal tabs, once the are tampered with, several broke.
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Old 09-17-2016, 02:59 PM   #18
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Yes, that looks familiar, some of the pieces are held in place with bent metal tabs, once the are tampered with, several broke.
How far did you take that jack apart, Jim? The cover comes off with just the two bolts, it looks like the crank would come out with one pin, and that's all that would be needed to replace the crank. Do the tabs hold the top housing onto the outer tube?
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:03 PM   #19
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Yes, If my memory serves right, it was 4 years ago, on my 2012 Escape.
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:42 PM   #20
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How far did you take that jack apart, Jim? The cover comes off with just the two bolts, it looks like the crank would come out with one pin, and that's all that would be needed to replace the crank. Do the tabs hold the top housing onto the outer tube?
Two through bolts hold the cover. Inside is a set of bevel gears. the one on the crank shaft is free-floating on the shaft, with the drift(drive) pin transmitting the shaft rotation to the gear. The flat snap ring keeps the drift pin centered and in place.

One could replace the crank shaft with a bolt the same shank diameter, cut to length (remove the threads), with a hole for the drift pin. That would give you a hex head to drive with a power tool.
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