Update on Nova Kool RFU 8320 Refrigerator installation

[hotfishtacos]

Originally Posted by MyronL

So I couldn't do one without I added 200 watts of solar to my roof and upgraded my inverter from 600 to 1200?

It has been 5 years......and the inverter was mentioned only because I have a lot of battery and solar capacity. This refrigerator runs on 12 volts DC only and requires plenty of solar and battery capacity...my guess is at least 2 big 6 volt batteries and more than 300 watts of total solar. When I mentioned 50% duty cycle, CPAHarley2008 was correct in his analysis.

[hotfishtacos]

Originally Posted by Sean Murry

All of the compressor fridges are designed to vent the heat to the front.

Not true! These refrigerators are of modular design so heat elimination can be in the front top, bottom, rear or even remote. You just select the model that has venting you want. Mine is vented in the back out the rear of the 19 like the Dometic that it replaced. I had a choice when I selected it and decided not to pump heat from the refrigerator into the trailer. Models that vent to the front do that. Why heat the trailer with the refrigerator when it isn't necessary? I have propane space heater for that and on a hot day it would just make the trailer even hotter.

[hotfishtacos]

Originally Posted by Sean Murry

I just see so many positive reasons to go with a compressor fridge, that I thought I would give it a shot. I will keep you posted as to how it works or any issues I come up with.

Best of luck! You are going to love it!

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Sean Murry

This is very good news. I ordered my Escape 19 a couple of weeks ago and did the fridge delete. I am going with the Novakool RFU8220, 7.3 cu ft. The big difference between the RFU8220 AND the RFU8320 is the RFU8220 vents from the front, so you don't need the air space on the top and bottom. They do recommend a vent at the rear near the top, but the standard vent supplied with the normal propane fridge does the trick.

I got Escape to modify the cabinet opening to accept the fridge, but the measurements for the opening are very close to the larger fridge option from Escape. The Novakool RFU8220 requires a cut out of 52 7/8" H, 23 1/4" w and a depth of 19 1/2".

I remember that another member, Santiago ordered his 21 with modification to cabinetry for a Novakool and had them not cut the trailer for the top and side vents.

[cpaharley2008]

He ended up selling it shortly after acquisition, I wonder where it went?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Rossue

I remember that another member, Santiago ordered his 21 with modification to cabinetry for a Novakool and had them not cut the trailer for the top and side vents.

Yes, but I believe another purchaser asked and ETI said they would never do it again. His fridge vented the heat to the interior. You can see the transfer fan in the second pic. He didn’t have it long enough to give us any real world performance feedback.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Sean Murry

Sclifrickson, I noticed you called your new trailer Lilly. That was the name we chose for our trailer except spelled Lily. I call my truck Herman, and if you recall the old TV Show "The Munsters" Herman Munster was married to Lily. Hence the trailer will be called Lily.

Clever and cute [emoji1303]

We chose Lilly because the green graphics remind us of a lily pad and she’s our pad when we’re away from home base.

[Sean Murry]

Originally Posted by hotfishtacos

Not true! These refrigerators are of modular design so heat elimination can be in the front top, bottom, rear or even remote. You just select the model that has venting you want. Mine is vented in the back out the rear of the 19 like the Dometic that it replaced. I had a choice when I selected it and decided not to pump heat from the refrigerator into the trailer. Models that vent to the front do that. Why heat the trailer with the refrigerator when it isn't necessary? I have propane space heater for that and on a hot day it would just make the trailer even hotter.

I guess I stand corrected. I was going by what I saw in the Novakool installation manual and what I have seen other people use. The manual states:

1. Ventilation:
Ventilation should be one
of your first major installation
considerations. All refrigerators,
regardless of make, are heat
transfer machines which transfer
heat from the inside of the box
thru the evaporator, compressor
and refrigerant to the condenser
on the outside of the box, to be
dissipated to the air. The cavity
where the condenser is located
MUST be adequately ventilated.
Single door units
Require 30 sq.in. INLET and 30 sq.in. OUTLET
Double door units
Require 60 sq.in. INLET and 60 sq.in. OUTLET
(With the exception of the RFU9000, and the RFU8220 which has all of the
required ventilation built into the front of the flange)
The INLET should be below the level of the condenser and the
OUTLET should be above.This type of ventilation is ideal and will
allow natural convection to take place, drawing cool air in low through
the INLET, drawing off the heat from the condenser, and allowing the
hot air to escape thru the OUTLET. This is how a chimney on a
fireplace works.
When using grilles or registers please consider the “free” area
as some grilles can be quite large and still be very restrictive. For those
inevitable applications that are “hard” to ventilate completely, provisions
have been made on the electronic module to accept an auxiliary fan.

They then showed a picture of a typical ventilation set up and it showed the air coming from the bottom and exiting the top of the fridge back into the cabin.
I didn't think the outside wall vent for the standard fridge would be below the level of the condenser.

I was concerned about heat being discharged into the trailer as well, but speaking with not only the manufacturer but many people who are using the Novakool they said that heat generation is a non issue.
I guess I will find out and let everyone know if this becomes a problem or not.

[Sean Murry]

Originally Posted by Rossue

I remember that another member, Santiago ordered his 21 with modification to cabinetry for a Novakool and had them not cut the trailer for the top and side vents.

ETI said they would not eliminate the side or top vents. They said they needed the side vent for a "blow hole" to pop the fibreglass shell from the mould. The top vent is a good thing anyway, as Novakool does suggest an upper vent at the back of the fridge even if the venting is from the front.

I will look forward to being a guinea pig on this fridge set up.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Sean Murry

I will look forward to being a guinea pig on this fridge set up.

We appreciate it as you are advancing the knowledge of different systems and technologies that may be an option for others in the future. Similar to my mini-split heat pump installation. Check out this post were I consolidated 3 links with information on DC compressor fridge research/installations. Maybe something will be useful.

www.escapeforum.org/forums/f40/finalizing-our-new-21-this-week-12240-2.html#post236284

[Sean Murry]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

We appreciate it as you are advancing the knowledge of different systems and technologies that may be an option for others in the future. Similar to my mini-split heat pump installation. Check out this post were I consolidated 3 links with information on DC compressor fridge research/installations. Maybe something will be useful.

www.escapeforum.org/forums/f40/finalizing-our-new-21-this-week-12240-2.html#post236284

Thanks for the link.
Once I get this all completed I will let everyone know how it went, and of course keep track of how well it does over time.

[Mike Lewis]

Has anyone installed a NovaKool 12V fridge in a first generation Escape 21? I think Santiago did, but I assume he's no longer on the forum since he sold his Escape a while back. Anybody else?

[cpaharley2008]

I had 2 small 12v Novacool units in my T@da, you could hear them humming when inside. Between two of them I had enough cold and freezer space. I did not have solar but did have dual 12v batteries.