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Old 04-18-2015, 08:24 PM   #11
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It did cross my mind to do that using the smaller type without the whole cap. But it didn't seem to make too much sense because the suction would be almost right by the intake and I'm not to sure how efficient that would be. And as Brian mentions when you have a ton of solar you don't really need to be adding something with a dedicated solar unit.

I think that Klem's location for adding a fan to remove heat from the condenser is a great way to go and when I have time that's what I'm going to do.

Ron
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:03 AM   #12
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Is more better

Ok Guys what is your opinion ? I was talking with Paul Unmack from ARP LLC I consider Paul an expert in absorption refrigaration. I ask Paul how much ventilation I need it for my Dometic 6.7 fridge. He said one air exchange a minute any more then that would not help you any more. So he recommended one 16 CFM fan for my Escape 19 trailer. If Paul would of recommended more fans I would purchase what ever he suggested. Now I am kind a person that would have thought the more air flow the better off you are.
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:17 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by markvt View Post
Ok Guys what is your opinion ? I was talking with Paul Unmack from ARP LLC I consider Paul an expert in absorption refrigaration. I ask Paul how much ventilation I need it for my Dometic 6.7 fridge. He said one air exchange a minute any more then that would not help you any more. So he recommended one 16 CFM fan for my Escape 19 trailer. If Paul would of recommended more fans I would purchase what ever he suggested. Now I am kind a person that would have thought the more air flow the better off you are.
Actually if the airflow is too rapid, there is less heat transferred since the air has less time to be in direct contact the hot surface. There is a "sweet spot" that depends on the design of the fins (impingement surfaces.) Retired HVAC design engineer here.....
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Old 04-19-2015, 12:37 AM   #14
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Charlie,
I agree with you I am actually a license refrigeration mechanic to. Refrigeration is not my field of expertise but I am required to work on it at times. I put this question out because it appears that a lot of people think they should have a windtunnel blowing behind the back of there refrigerator units.
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:57 PM   #15
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Re, Vent: I was up on my roof to remove the manual vent where an air conditioner would go and happened to glance to my right at the (other) plumbing vent over the sink. Saw, to my utter amazement, the vent cap had vanished.

Looking back at pictures taken of the trailer the last few months I was able to determine this cap, judging by how crooked it looked, must never have been correctly seated. It seems to have finally broke loose and flew off on the last trip.

Finally found a replacement on eBay.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg vent2.jpg (80.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg vent1.jpg (58.6 KB, 11 views)
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Old 06-04-2015, 08:53 AM   #16
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Ron,
I have used your method and fabricated an aluminium rim around the inside of the upper refrigerator vent. It was an easy process and gave me a chance to inspect the inside and check for leaks on the screws. Everything was OK but in my subsequent travels I did not find the solution helped my refrigerator from warming up while travelling.

So far the only solution is to completely block the lower vent with a closed cell foam while travelling. However this solution is still in testing as I need some 3-4 hour travel days to get a true result.
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Old 06-04-2015, 10:03 AM   #17
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Myron - did you find a replacement cap that fit or did you have to replace the entire assembly? The vent cover assembly that Escape uses is somewhat flexible & curves to the roof (at least on the 17). The assemblies I've been able to find are too stiff to follow the roof curve.
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Old 06-04-2015, 11:35 AM   #18
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You know at first I could not find this cap listed anywhere on my bookmarked rv supplier sites. Maybe because with my searches I didn't know what to call it. Then went onto eBay doing a broad search for "...exterior vents..." or something like that and scrolling through the results is how I found what I needed.

The cap is evidently not sold separately -- for seven bucks I got the entire unit. No need to replace entire vent. Simply attached matching new cap onto original vent housing. No screws or metal involved, drop in and twist left or right to snag in the tangs. It actually took several tries to get it locked in.
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