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Old 12-20-2013, 07:54 PM   #1
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What gauge electrical wire is standard in the Escapes

Just curious as to what is the standard gauge electrical wire Escape uses to feed to the 120v outlets and what gauge they use to the 12v outlets?
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Old 12-21-2013, 03:40 AM   #2
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I'm hoping it's a minimum of 12. Jim has done enough mods to his 19', and now the 21', perhaps he'll answer up and let us know.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:23 AM   #3
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The 120V is #14, standard for the 15A circuits. Not certain on the 12V to the outlets, I would have to go to my trailer to confirm. I know the light circuits are not that big.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:31 AM   #4
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Seems like 120v outlets for microwaves and possible places for cube heaters should be 12.... especially on the bigger trailers with longer runs. Hummm.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #5
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The standard 14 ga wiring should be perfectly fine for small appliances rated to about 1500 watts total per circuit.
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Old 12-21-2013, 11:03 AM   #6
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I have installed hundreds of microwaves, and all have been on a 15A circuit. All cube heaters too are designed to be used on 15A circuits. I really know of no plug-in appliance rated higher. There certainly could be some, but almost no houses (with the exception of newer kitchens) even use 20A circuits for plugs. I know the roughed in A/C circuit on my trailer is 20A (I believe), for when one is installed.

I did run 12g (20A) circuits for 120V in my garage, but that was because of the possiblility of two tools being used at once. Most of the biggest machines in there are on 30A 240V circuits.
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Old 12-21-2013, 11:55 AM   #7
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Seems like 120v outlets for microwaves and possible places for cube heaters should be 12.... especially on the bigger trailers with longer runs. Hummm.
As Jim suggests, household wiring provides the best basis for comparison. None of the circuits in even a 21 foot trailer will be even close to the length of a typical circuit in a house. You would have to wraps the cable around the whole perimeter of an Escape 21' at least a couple of times to reach the circuit length to the far corner of my ordinary bungalow from the panel in the opposite corner.

I noticed that heaters never exceed 1500 watts (same as the total that Dave mentioned) even though a 15 amp circuit could deliver 1800 watts; the idea is that these continuously-operating appliances must not push the circuit capacity. If you don't run anything else on the same circuit as the heater even the full 1500 watts leaves some capacity in reserve.
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:55 PM   #8
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I agree about heaters not exceeding 1500 watts, but what would be the story with blow driers? last I bought was 1875 watts.
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:29 PM   #9
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I've had a 1500 W cube heater cause a plug to get hot. I'd rather that not happen if I'm running a cube heater over night. AND, I've been known to have the Mr. Coffee brewing, cube heater running on high and the microwave running while it cooks my breakfast. I can get 250 feet of 12 gauge wire for less than $100. That seems cheap compared to a fire. But, you're the experts!
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I've had a 1500 W cube heater cause a plug to get hot. I'd rather that not happen if I'm running a cube heater over night. AND, I've been known to have the Mr. Coffee brewing, cube heater running on high and the microwave running while it cooks my breakfast. I can get 250 feet of 12 gauge wire for less than $100. That seems cheap compared to a fire. But, you're the experts!

The plug isn't getting hot because of the gauge of wire, it's getting hot because the connection of the plug to the receptacle is not conducting the electrical current that well so changing to a thicker gauge won't help.

Escape runs two circuits for 120 volt plus I also had Reace put my heater on it's own circuit as well. He ran the line for me and I installed a permanent heater in my 5.0

We've had the toaster, a hairdryer and heater all running at once and have never blown a circuit due to overload. When I traced my 120 volt lines I found that one circuit ran down one side of the trailer and the other ran down the other side.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:04 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I've had a 1500 W cube heater cause a plug to get hot. I'd rather that not happen if I'm running a cube heater over night. AND, I've been known to have the Mr. Coffee brewing, cube heater running on high and the microwave running while it cooks my breakfast. I can get 250 feet of 12 gauge wire for less than $100. That seems cheap compared to a fire. But, you're the experts!
Donna, you would have no worries in this scenario with the wiring Escape uses. For starters, the microwave is on its own circuit. Worst case scenario, is that the breaker would trip. Unless like Barry mentioned, the plug or cord is likely the weak link, and in this case it would not matter what gauge wire was used. This is the cause of 95% (just a guess, though it is by far the vast majority) of household fires, not the wiring. As a safety measure, the breaker would trip long before the wiring was in danger.

If it would set your mind at ease, you could ask Reace, but not only would the wire need to be upgraded, but the plugs and breaker too. I assume because the A/C is 20A, that the circuits could be too.

Like I mentioned above, outlets in entire households, with only a few exceptions, are all still wired at 15A, just so long as there is no more than 12 lights and/or outlets on the circuit. Our trailers are small in comparison.
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Old 12-21-2013, 09:24 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I've had a 1500 W cube heater cause a plug to get hot.
As Barry explained, that's not due to inadequate wire gauge.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I've been known to have the Mr. Coffee brewing, cube heater running on high and the microwave running while it cooks my breakfast.
Sure, but not on the same circuit - that would overload even a 12 gauge / 20 amp circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
I can get 250 feet of 12 gauge wire for less than $100. That seems cheap compared to a fire.
Yes it's not a lot of money, but if every component is heavier and $100 more expensive than required, the cumulative effect is a too-heavy and unaffordable trailer. More importantly, it won't prevent a fire, anyway.

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But, you're the experts!
I claim no expertise. I only contribute my view to the discussion; it is the reader's responsibility to verify information and judge the validity of arguments.


You can use over-size wire if you decide that's best. It won't create a safety hazard, and at worst wastes money and adds a little of weight and installation hassle.
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Old 12-22-2013, 06:44 AM   #13
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Donna,
If you get too many 20 amp circuits, you will need a 50 amp hookup, something to avoid at cg due to extra $$ both in overnight fees and accessories. Switch your coffee to stovetop, a lot easier solution.
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