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Old 08-28-2015, 07:31 PM   #51
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OK after reading through this thread, I'm still confused. My build sheet is due on Monday so I hope someone can help me on this. I ordered the antenna and shipped that to ETI. I did not order the adapter or the cradle because I thought we could just bring that with us and install it ourselves. Please let me know if I'm wrong on that.

Also I'm confused about power sources that are needed for this. Am I right in understanding that I need ETI to install a 12V outlet at the antenna location for the antenna, plus an additional 12V for the cradle? The 'side mount cig outlet' is confusing me. Why is a side mount needed? Probably just to keep things out of the way, but I just want to be sure.

Thank you in advance!
Jill
The side mount 12V outlet I used let me attach it to the inside framing of the cabinet instead of having it on the face of the cabinet. That way I could wind up the excess antenna cable and tie wrap it to the outlet instead of having excess wire to deal with. I just open the cabinet door to plug in the cradle, only one 12V outlet is needed to power the cradle - antenna does not get power.

No cradle installed. I just plug it in when needed as I also use it in my truck
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:32 PM   #52
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Jill, our cradle came with a USB cable and a 12V Plug that attaches to that cable. Since we had ETI install a 12V drop in the overhead cabinet, wiring it up was easy. We picked up a 12V socket with just bare wires on the end (as in the picture below) and attached the wires to the 12V drop wires. Then, just plugged in the cradle.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:56 PM   #53
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Or, maybe this drawing will better explain how I powered it:
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Old 08-29-2015, 03:55 PM   #54
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Thank you Robert - those pics helped a bunch!

Now 1 more question. On the 21 it could be installed near the fridge like Charlie did, or above the nightstand. The standard TV install is done at the nightstand. Is there any reason not to do this cell phone setup there as well?
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Old 08-29-2015, 06:00 PM   #55
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Thank you Robert - those pics helped a bunch!

Now 1 more question. On the 21 it could be installed near the fridge like Charlie did, or above the nightstand. The standard TV install is done at the nightstand. Is there any reason not to do this cell phone setup there as well?
No reason it couldn't be there, although the end of the overhead cabinet above the night stand has a lot of items/wires inside and on the surface. I had my TV jack moved to under that area instead of the face of the cabinet.

I just thought it easier to have it on the other side of the fridge as it could all tuck behind the cabinet face up against the fridge wall to not interfere with stowed items AND it would be a lot easier to access for setup and/or replacement of a broken antenna should that happen.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:50 PM   #56
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Thanks Charlie. That makes sense. We're going with your recommendation. I sure appreciate everyone patiently explaining their solutions so people like me who don't know what they're getting into can create a build sheet that makes sense!
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Old 08-30-2015, 12:24 AM   #57
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Thanks Charlie. That makes sense. We're going with your recommendation. I sure appreciate everyone patiently explaining their solutions so people like me who don't know what they're getting into can create a build sheet that makes sense!
You can see where it enters the cabinet rear of the fridge here, forward of the cabinet door opening.
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Old 08-30-2015, 01:53 AM   #58
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Having reviewed this full thread a couple of times and looking at other online sources, I have a few questions. I see that mounting this antenna requires a significant hole (3/8") in the roof specifically for the Wilson "Trucker" antenna. Are there issues if one needs to replace our upgrade this antenna down the road? Who knows how long Wilson will continue to make this antenna. Is the hole size compliant with some standard? I saw that one owner is talking of an upgrade to a Marine antenna (the Wilson version I presume). It needs a 1" thread mount. It also appears that this antenna might not be the best for the 700MHz frequency predominantly used by Verizon for 4G. Is there a better option anyone know about? I am looking for some roof mount unit. I know I can ultimately go flag pole with a directional antenna if I really need the reach, but that is in the future. Has anyone gone the conduit approach to providing cable hook up to other antennas, wifi or cellular?
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:20 AM   #59
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I went with the Boatant marine antenna, seems to work just fine for my Verizon but I don't have 4G. Cable went through the fridge vent and mounting block is shaped to the roof line and glued in place. Booster is in the cabinet next to the fridge.
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Old 08-30-2015, 09:43 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by slloyd47 View Post
Having reviewed this full thread a couple of times and looking at other online sources, I have a few questions. I see that mounting this antenna requires a significant hole (3/8") in the roof specifically for the Wilson "Trucker" antenna. Are there issues if one needs to replace our upgrade this antenna down the road? Who knows how long Wilson will continue to make this antenna. Is the hole size compliant with some standard? I saw that one owner is talking of an upgrade to a Marine antenna (the Wilson version I presume). It needs a 1" thread mount. It also appears that this antenna might not be the best for the 700MHz frequency predominantly used by Verizon for 4G. Is there a better option anyone know about? I am looking for some roof mount unit. I know I can ultimately go flag pole with a directional antenna if I really need the reach, but that is in the future. Has anyone gone the conduit approach to providing cable hook up to other antennas, wifi or cellular?
No matter what brand/model antenna you purchase, I can just abut guarantee that you will be replacing it in the future. Fiberglass trailers last far longer than frequency changes for cell systems. As new bands become available to the cell companies, they will add them, requiring new antennas that perform at the new frequencies.

In planning an installation, I'd be sure that the path between the outside antenna & the inside amplifier is as replaceable as possible. This is from someone that had to re run the wiring behind the bathroom in an Escape 17B to replace an antenna with a permanent cable because of a couple of broken radials.
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