Wilson Antenna Parts arrived

[Rossue]

Except for "Road Warriors" a smartphone's hotspot capability is great. That capability is usually a function of one's rate plan. The newer shared data plans for both AT&T/Verizon include this feature. Older unlimited data plans do not.

Some customers like mifi as they don't drain down the battery on the smartphone and usually have better battery performance anyway. Another reason I refuse to use a phone with a battery you can't switch out. Am usually swapping my battery while camping as the battery drain is higher when the signal is lower or non-existent. In those situations you can turn you phone to Flight Mode to conserve the battery but still use it as a clock or night light.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

You can get a separate plan for a MiFi or a "bundled" plan from many carriers. I guess the bundled plan treats the MiFi as an add on device. In that case they would probably share the data on the plan.

Right. I have a phone and a mobile hotspot (not a MiFi, another brand of equivalent device) on a Telus plan. They could be handled separately, but I buy a voice package for the phone, pay a flat fee to add the mobile hotspot as an additional device, and buy a block of data which is shared between the two devices. This plan allows any number of devices to share data, with the fee per device depending on the type of device.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Some customers like mifi as they don't drain down the battery on the smartphone and usually have better battery performance anyway.

In my case, the Sleek Cradle has a USB port on the side. I use it for the charging cable of the Hotspot. I'm not sure if keeping it fully charged (plugged in) is detrimental to the Hotspot device, so I occasionally unplug it and let the battery deplete before plugging it back in.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

I'm not sure if keeping it fully charged (plugged in) is detrimental to the Hotspot device, so I occasionally unplug it and let the battery deplete before plugging it back in.

It presumably has a lithium-ion battery. While they handle deep cycling well (although they are destroyed by complete discharge), I don't think there is any problem with floating them. My mobile hotspot is left powered for days at a time, and never deliberately run down. When I do accidentally leave it on without external power, it still goes for hours. If it is left on with external power and no WiFi activity, the device - including its battery - doesn't get warm.

[skiman]

My Droid Maxx phone worked quite well as a hot spot in the trailer with the sleek. I did not try it outside. We had it just aft of the fridge in the overhead. The trucker antenna was just above mounted on the roof. No issues with feedback even that close.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

It presumably has a lithium-ion battery. While they handle deep cycling well (although they are destroyed by complete discharge), I don't think there is any problem with floating them. My mobile hotspot is left powered for days at a time, and never deliberately run down. When I do accidentally leave it on without external power, it still goes for hours. If it is left on with external power and no WiFi activity, the device - including its battery - doesn't get warm.

A number of us have had problems leaving a MHS291LVW in a Sleek. The Sleek gets fairly warm and the battery in the hotspot swells to the point where the back will not stay on. To be honest, I don't know if it is just the heat, overcharging, or a combination of both, but after replacing the battery, I only power both when necessary.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

A number of us have had problems leaving a MHS291LVW in a Sleek. The Sleek gets fairly warm and the battery in the hotspot swells to the point where the back will not stay on. To be honest, I don't know if it is just the heat, overcharging, or a combination of both, but after replacing the battery, I only power both when necessary.

That's interesting. My hotspot's battery is slightly swollen as well, but not to the point of being unable to get the back of the case to stay on. I wonder if being in the cradle - which surrounds the device - is making heat problems worse. All of this radio gear gets hot in use, and I've never seen an accessory from the device manufacturer which surrounds the device - they offer docks for some hotspots, but know to stand the device up rather than envelop it in a cradle.

[Jill]

Originally Posted by tractors1

My setup uses the same parts. Had a 12V drop put into the driver side cabinet aft of the fridge in my 21, where the antenna was installed, then added a side mount cig outlet to power the cradle, which connected through an adapter to the antenna. Cradle works great sitting in the cabinet, so no need to mess up the outside of the cabinet with a holder for the cradle. Male plug-in has a USB output to charge the phone while it's online. Makes it simple to replace the antenna should that be needed.

OK after reading through this thread, I'm still confused. My build sheet is due on Monday so I hope someone can help me on this. I ordered the antenna and shipped that to ETI. I did not order the adapter or the cradle because I thought we could just bring that with us and install it ourselves. Please let me know if I'm wrong on that.

Also I'm confused about power sources that are needed for this. Am I right in understanding that I need ETI to install a 12V outlet at the antenna location for the antenna, plus an additional 12V for the cradle? The 'side mount cig outlet' is confusing me. Why is a side mount needed? Probably just to keep things out of the way, but I just want to be sure.

Thank you in advance!
Jill

[bdornbush]

The antenna does not require power. The cradle, or booster, does require 12v. I think the "side mount cig outlet" is just an additional 12v outlet that allows for surface mounting rather than having to drill a hole. Either 12v outlet will work.

[padlin]

Just 12v for the cradle, wherever you want it to be. I usa a USB cable instead of the cig lighter job. It does need the higher 2.4A USB power supply though.

The antenna cable should terminate in the same area as it connects to the cradle too.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Jill

OK after reading through this thread, I'm still confused. My build sheet is due on Monday so I hope someone can help me on this. I ordered the antenna and shipped that to ETI. I did not order the adapter or the cradle because I thought we could just bring that with us and install it ourselves. Please let me know if I'm wrong on that.

Also I'm confused about power sources that are needed for this. Am I right in understanding that I need ETI to install a 12V outlet at the antenna location for the antenna, plus an additional 12V for the cradle? The 'side mount cig outlet' is confusing me. Why is a side mount needed? Probably just to keep things out of the way, but I just want to be sure.

Thank you in advance!
Jill

The side mount 12V outlet I used let me attach it to the inside framing of the cabinet instead of having it on the face of the cabinet. That way I could wind up the excess antenna cable and tie wrap it to the outlet instead of having excess wire to deal with. I just open the cabinet door to plug in the cradle, only one 12V outlet is needed to power the cradle - antenna does not get power.

No cradle installed. I just plug it in when needed as I also use it in my truck

[rbryan4]

Jill, our cradle came with a USB cable and a 12V Plug that attaches to that cable. Since we had ETI install a 12V drop in the overhead cabinet, wiring it up was easy. We picked up a 12V socket with just bare wires on the end (as in the picture below) and attached the wires to the 12V drop wires. Then, just plugged in the cradle.

[rbryan4]

Or, maybe this drawing will better explain how I powered it:

[Jill]

Thank you Robert - those pics helped a bunch!

Now 1 more question. On the 21 it could be installed near the fridge like Charlie did, or above the nightstand. The standard TV install is done at the nightstand. Is there any reason not to do this cell phone setup there as well?

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Jill

Thank you Robert - those pics helped a bunch!

Now 1 more question. On the 21 it could be installed near the fridge like Charlie did, or above the nightstand. The standard TV install is done at the nightstand. Is there any reason not to do this cell phone setup there as well?

No reason it couldn't be there, although the end of the overhead cabinet above the night stand has a lot of items/wires inside and on the surface. I had my TV jack moved to under that area instead of the face of the cabinet.

I just thought it easier to have it on the other side of the fridge as it could all tuck behind the cabinet face up against the fridge wall to not interfere with stowed items AND it would be a lot easier to access for setup and/or replacement of a broken antenna should that happen.

[Jill]

Thanks Charlie. That makes sense. We're going with your recommendation. I sure appreciate everyone patiently explaining their solutions so people like me who don't know what they're getting into can create a build sheet that makes sense!

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Jill

Thanks Charlie. That makes sense. We're going with your recommendation. I sure appreciate everyone patiently explaining their solutions so people like me who don't know what they're getting into can create a build sheet that makes sense!

You can see where it enters the cabinet rear of the fridge here, forward of the cabinet door opening.

[slloyd47]

Having reviewed this full thread a couple of times and looking at other online sources, I have a few questions. I see that mounting this antenna requires a significant hole (3/8") in the roof specifically for the Wilson "Trucker" antenna. Are there issues if one needs to replace our upgrade this antenna down the road? Who knows how long Wilson will continue to make this antenna. Is the hole size compliant with some standard? I saw that one owner is talking of an upgrade to a Marine antenna (the Wilson version I presume). It needs a 1" thread mount. It also appears that this antenna might not be the best for the 700MHz frequency predominantly used by Verizon for 4G. Is there a better option anyone know about? I am looking for some roof mount unit. I know I can ultimately go flag pole with a directional antenna if I really need the reach, but that is in the future. Has anyone gone the conduit approach to providing cable hook up to other antennas, wifi or cellular?

[padlin]

I went with the Boatant marine antenna, seems to work just fine for my Verizon but I don't have 4G. Cable went through the fridge vent and mounting block is shaped to the roof line and glued in place. Booster is in the cabinet next to the fridge.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by slloyd47

Having reviewed this full thread a couple of times and looking at other online sources, I have a few questions. I see that mounting this antenna requires a significant hole (3/8") in the roof specifically for the Wilson "Trucker" antenna. Are there issues if one needs to replace our upgrade this antenna down the road? Who knows how long Wilson will continue to make this antenna. Is the hole size compliant with some standard? I saw that one owner is talking of an upgrade to a Marine antenna (the Wilson version I presume). It needs a 1" thread mount. It also appears that this antenna might not be the best for the 700MHz frequency predominantly used by Verizon for 4G. Is there a better option anyone know about? I am looking for some roof mount unit. I know I can ultimately go flag pole with a directional antenna if I really need the reach, but that is in the future. Has anyone gone the conduit approach to providing cable hook up to other antennas, wifi or cellular?

No matter what brand/model antenna you purchase, I can just abut guarantee that you will be replacing it in the future. Fiberglass trailers last far longer than frequency changes for cell systems. As new bands become available to the cell companies, they will add them, requiring new antennas that perform at the new frequencies.

In planning an installation, I'd be sure that the path between the outside antenna & the inside amplifier is as replaceable as possible. This is from someone that had to re run the wiring behind the bathroom in an Escape 17B to replace an antenna with a permanent cable because of a couple of broken radials.