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Old 04-04-2018, 10:31 PM   #1
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12volt plug amperage?

The 12 volt plugs in the trailers, while hooked up to shore power- does anyone know the amperage of the plugs? Are they 15?
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:40 PM   #2
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It should not depend on if your hooked up to shore power or not. The rating depends on what the following can handle...cig plug, wiring to it, the fuse and what other items share the same fuse.
I will let someone that has a trailer tell you what the weakest link is.
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Old 04-05-2018, 05:16 AM   #3
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For a better understanding of your DC system, here is a good guide The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:07 AM   #4
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Best to ask ETI as only they know how your trailer is/will be wired. A previous post I found suggests ETI uses 16 gauge wire as default to the 12V outlets. Based on what I've seen in our trailer I would say that is probably correct. That may be ok for a short wire run at a full 15 amps, but anything significant I'd rather see 14 AWG.

Regarding the physical outlets themselves though and based solely on pictures it appears for the standard outlet they use is Prime Products 08-5015 which Camping World lists as rated at 10 amps. Interestingly, the Prime Products website does not list the amp rating.
Small 12-Volt Receptacle - Prime Products 08-5015 - Power Plugs & Receptacles - Camping World

For the 12V/USB it appear that ETI uses the Magnadyne WC-12-B. The manual lists:
Automotive Power Output Rating 12VDC, 15A
Charging Output Rating: 5V/2.4A per each USB port
Wire terminals: #16 AWG
WC-12V Black or White
Attached Thumbnails
extra_12v_outlet.jpg   12VXUSBXInteriorXOutlet-1.jpg  
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Old 04-05-2018, 09:39 AM   #5
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Most cigarette lighter sockets (and I believe the ones Escape uses) are rated at 10A, but 15A is available. But, not only do you need the socket fed by 14g wire, whatever plugs in must also use 14g wire to make use of this amperage.
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:16 AM   #6
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Most cigarette lighter sockets (and I believe the ones Escape uses) are rated at 10A, but 15A is available. But, not only do you need the socket fed by 14g wire, whatever plugs in must also use 14g wire to make use of this amperage.
When we were ordering our 21' ETI told us they use 14g wire for 12 volt outlets, but that 12 volt drops in cabinets were 16g wire. Therefore we got 12 volt outlets every location that we wanted 12 volt, so that I could tie into the 14g wire. They said the 12 volt outlets were good up to 15 amps. I suppose things are still the same but I would confirm with ETI.
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Old 04-05-2018, 10:29 AM   #7
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When we were ordering our 21' ETI told us they use 14g wire for 12 volt outlets, but that 12 volt drops in cabinets were 16g wire. Therefore we got 12 volt outlets every location that we wanted 12 volt, so that I could tie into the 14g wire. They said the 12 volt outlets were good up to 15 amps. I suppose things are still the same but I would confirm with ETI.
I need to double check, as I thought I only had 16g to my 12V sockets. To be fair, our vacuum is about the only appliance that draws much. I use the truck for my wee air compressor.
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Old 04-05-2018, 11:50 AM   #8
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Would something that requires 15 amps, attempt to work in one that was only 10 or would it just not turn on at all? And I guess if it attempted to work it would blow a fuse? Is that true?
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Old 04-05-2018, 12:31 PM   #9
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Would something that requires 15 amps, attempt to work in one that was only 10 or would it just not turn on at all? And I guess if it attempted to work it would blow a fuse? Is that true?
It depends on the size of the fuse protecting the circuit. A 10 amp fuse would likely blow, a 15 probably wouldn't.

My biggest problem with the cigarette lighter type 12V receptacle used in the Escape (and most trailers) is anything more that 8-10 amps causes the connector to overheat & fail. I'm not impressed with the connector for anywhere near their rated current unless it is a very short usage.
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Old 04-05-2018, 12:42 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
My biggest problem with the cigarette lighter type 12V receptacle used in the Escape (and most trailers) is anything more that 8-10 amps causes the connector to overheat & fail. I'm not impressed with the connector for anywhere near their rated current unless it is a very short usage.
I have a more extreme version of the same opinion: I hate these things, and tolerate them only because they are so common. I had one of these plugs melt while running an air compressor (to inflate a trailer tire) from a portable power pack.

They work okay for small electronics (dashcam, GPS, phone...) and are barely tolerable for short-term use with equipment such as air pumps. And they're the only thing available unless you want to convert the cords of all your stuff.
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Old 04-06-2018, 02:58 PM   #11
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Would something that requires 15 amps, attempt to work in one that was only 10 or would it just not turn on at all? And I guess if it attempted to work it would blow a fuse? Is that true?
It depends on the item being used. Is it an resistive load, like a heating pad, or a light? Or is a inductive load, like a fan motor? Or is it the worst of worlds, a hair dryer (which has a resistive heat load as well as an inductive fan motor)? Inductive loads can experience starting surges, where they draw extra curent. So conceivably, your 15A item could run on the 10A circuit, if the fuse/breaker doesn't blow; but you run the risk of overheating the wiring, which has insulation that is typically rated to handle only the circuit load of the breaker or fuse. Thsi can start fires.

By the way, electrical circuits should only be loaded to 80% of their breaker or fuse rating, to allow for surges (these can occur when, for example, a motor starts, which draws extra current). So a 15A breaker should only be loaded to 12A, a 10A breaker to 8A, etc.

You can find the Watts by multiplying Amps x Voltage: 20A x 120V = 2400W (x0.8 = 1920W max). 15A x 12V = 180W x 0.8 = 144W max on that ckt.

You can calculate all the things you'll run on the circuit, if you know what receptacle is on what circuit...this can be accomplished by methodically checking outlet function while tripping brekers or removing fuses one at a time. Then make a diagram of your circuits so you'll know where to plug in that electric margarita shaker.
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Old 07-05-2018, 10:38 AM   #12
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I just checked with Escape and can confirm rubicon327's previous statement about Escape using 16 gauge wire for their 12V drops.

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Old 07-05-2018, 12:04 PM   #13
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So that means 13 amp capacity @ 12v?
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:12 PM   #14
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I just checked with Escape and can confirm rubicon327's previous statement about Escape using 16 gauge wire for their 12V drops.
Actually I said that a previous post indicated 16 gauge to the 12V outlets, not drops. Casejh followed up in post #6 that the drops were 16 gauge as you have also confirmed. He also said that outlets are now wired 14 gauge which applies directly to the question of the original post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by casejh View Post
When we were ordering our 21' ETI told us they use 14g wire for 12 volt outlets, but that 12 volt drops in cabinets were 16g wire. Therefore we got 12 volt outlets every location that we wanted 12 volt, so that I could tie into the 14g wire. They said the 12 volt outlets were good up to 15 amps. I suppose things are still the same but I would confirm with ETI.
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