1st trip out... Fridge won't operate on gas - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-20-2016, 10:08 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
My RM8551 when on propane has just begun refusing to get cold. Works great on shore power but tests on propane the last 2 days have been totally bad, as in DOA-bad.

Got all fridge lights, plenty of gas, blue Piezo flame, but no refrigeration. Doing my best to not going nuclear.
Myron, Our burner looks very much the same in terms of discoloration. I took the trailer to a RV shop today that is an authorized Dometic dealer. We'll see what they can come up with.

Fred Alexander
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:21 PM   #42
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Fred, I await your findings with the greatest interest.

Meanwhile to those with suggestions thanks a lot, but trailer is level, I said blue Piezo flame is constant, and I sure don't want to be driving using the battery to cool the fridge, be restricted to campsites with shore power hookups, paying primo for something I shouldn't need, plus (Ohmygod) taking away a spot from one of them more needy super busses.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:39 PM   #43
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It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:11 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by jennykatz View Post
I wish ETI would let us take out the 3 way fridge and put in a truck fridge with 12 volt with duel batteries and solar why screw around with propane ? I've had friends come down to SW Florida and their 3 way fridges don't work so well . I talked to Sarah she said they could delete fridge and leave the cabinet open .I would have to get my own . I still don't know what $ one would get deleting the 3 way fridge .

If we get the 3 way can we just run on 12 volt or 110 ac and forget propane .(I did order the extra rear fridge fan)The only time propane comes in handy is boon docking for hot water and burners for coffee.The SE of America most campsites have elec 110 even in national parks . That's why I wanted solar to keep up the fridge on 12 volt . I hope this new Fridge for the 21 is up to the SW Florida Summers
Sorry to tell you this, but from what I've been able to find, the Dometic Americana fridges use about 12.5 Amps on 12V. That would be a whopping 300 amp/hours a day if it runs all the time. Even if it only runs 50% of the time that's 150 amp/hours, which is far more than you will be able to generate and store with the standard solar and dual 6v setup.

Dometic makes a Danfoss compressor fridge series for marine applications that could work though. For our 2017 17B with a 4 cu ft option the dimensions of the RM2454 are approx 37 1/2 X 25 X 25". The Dometic CRX-1140 would fit at approx 33 1/4 X 23 1/2 X 24 1/2". This might be an option for you as well if you are willing to downsize your fridge and take the ETI no fridge option.

I found this article which suggests that slightly smaller CRX-1110 uses an average of only 2.2 amps, or 50-60 amp/hours per day. The Danfoss compressors seem to use about the same power regardless of fridge size, so let's call it 2.5 amps. That might just be doable with the 160 watt solar panel, but I would want to carry a small generator for cloudy days or if you use 12V for much else other than the fridge.

I'm toying with the idea myself, but I was pretty happy with the last 2 propane/110v rv fridges I had so I doubt it. I think the Americana is likely to be a decent unit and with a cooling fan will hopefully be adequate. If it turns into a nightmare later I might swap it out for a danfoss 12V.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:57 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
Thanks - so "both sides" meant both inputs (not input and output), which makes sense.
I've had more problems with liquids than particles, but these filters sound like they might be a good just-in-case measure.
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Old 07-21-2016, 06:32 AM   #46
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I would replace the propane regulator at the tank.
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:35 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
It's best to install it prior to the regulator to protect it also. The only purpose is to catch chunks. I was told you should never need to clean it (it screws apart) unless to get some real nasty propane.
Hi Klem,
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number? Thanks.

Tonny
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Old 07-21-2016, 08:45 AM   #48
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Hi Klem,
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number? Thanks.

Tonny

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Old 07-21-2016, 11:09 AM   #49
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Been traveling for a few weeks now and am now having similar problems listed here with my fridge (RM2510). When I first hit the road the fridge was on propane and worked great for three days. I reached my destination, switched to AC, and the fridge continued working for 10 days.

When I left to go to my next destination I again switched to propane. This time I noticed the fridge was warming, even though everything seemed to be working: piezo ignition, burner and flue hot. Several days passed and the fridge just would not cool down. BUT the freezer was working great, everything still frozen.

I'm now at my destination and back on AC, everything works, but I am perplexed. Consulted Google but have not yet come across any similar issues.
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Old 07-21-2016, 12:47 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
What is the name fo that device you connected to the propane tubes. Where do you get them? what is the part number?
This one:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
This looks like the AFC Model 155, a 40-micron inline filter.
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