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Old 07-21-2018, 01:58 PM   #1
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2018 21 Sink Window won't stay shut

We just did a trip over some gravel roads and found the window between the sink and cook top to be slightly open after driving the roads both ways. None of the other windows were open but the one by the sink seems to be vibrating lose and opening maybe a 1/4" or so. Sucks with the dust on the gravel road. Double checked it was tight on the way out and it opened again. Just curious if anyone has seen this before and if there is a solution. Seems like this one window turns a little to easily so can unwind itself with the vibration.

Anyone else experienced this problem.

Thanks, Dave
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:01 PM   #2
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Perhaps some teflon tape on the threads could make it harder to turn....that is what I use on the table screw, or even a rubber band.
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Old 07-21-2018, 02:56 PM   #3
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We just did a trip over some gravel roads and found the window between the sink and cook top to be slightly open after driving the roads both ways. None of the other windows were open but the one by the sink seems to be vibrating lose and opening maybe a 1/4" or so. Sucks with the dust on the gravel road. Double checked it was tight on the way out and it opened again. Just curious if anyone has seen this before and if there is a solution. Seems like this one window turns a little to easily so can unwind itself with the vibration.

Anyone else experienced this problem.

Thanks, Dave

Ours does that too. I-10 is just about as bumpy as some gravel roads and ours kept opening a little. We just took a little bit of low residue tape and taped the knob to the frame. One day I'll put two little tabs of velcro on each side of the knob and one on the knob and use a strip of velcro to hold it. Or come up with something else. Your bathroom window if you have one can do the same thing.
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:48 AM   #4
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I've found my kitchen window and the passenger side dinette window open, twice, after simply driving on paved roads/streets. Randy at ETI instructed me not to tighten the windows too tightly or that could cause the lower metal bar to come loose from the glass, resulting in glass breakage. So I'm trying to figure a way to keep the knob from turning ... drill a hole and insert a pin? use a wedge of wood? I tried teflon tape but found it made the knob too hard to turn when I wanted it to turn. Anybody have any solutions and photos of the solutions?
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:45 AM   #5
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There are thread locks made for occasional use, how about a rubber band....
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:32 AM   #6
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Thanks, Jim. You loved my table screw dilemma.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:35 AM   #7
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This is an important thread and I hope a reasonable solution to this problem can be found. My windows occasionally do the same, again usually after driving on some distance of gravel or bumpy roads. I now make it a practice to regularly stop and walk around the trailer, checking each window.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:18 AM   #8
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Just thinking out loud here.... how about a wood clothespin. Figure out some way of tapping threads on the little half circle inside the jaws
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:03 PM   #9
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Changed the title for better search reasons, the issue is keeping it shut,,,,
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Old 07-26-2018, 03:42 PM   #10
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We've had the same experience with our 'kitchen' window. I followed Tammy at Escape's suggestion and gently wedged a folded washcloth between the closed window and the knob, and after about an hour of travelling on a fairly bumpy road, the window was still closed when we stopped and checked.
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:43 AM   #11
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Sounds like several folks have the same problem (mention of the same problem has been made on other threads on this forum) ... with different windows around the rig maybe but the same problem. If someone has photos of solutions, or even of possible solutions, photos would be helpful. Does anyone know who the manufacturer of these windows are so we could contact them directly?
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Old 07-27-2018, 02:28 AM   #12
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do the new escapes have different windows? my 2014, the sliding part of the windows has a latch lever thats a sort of camlock that is quite absolute, if its pressed down, there's no way the window can slide open. oh yeah, I have the hehr(?) double pane windows, I don't know if that makes a difference.
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Old 07-27-2018, 04:39 AM   #13
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TacomaAnn, these are Hehr windows.
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Old 07-27-2018, 07:25 AM   #14
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do the new escapes have different windows? my 2014, the sliding part of the windows has a latch lever thats a sort of camlock that is quite absolute, if its pressed down, there's no way the window can slide open. oh yeah, I have the hehr(?) double pane windows, I don't know if that makes a difference.
Frameless awning vs the framed slider style.....
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:22 PM   #15
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Ok, this might be my last post on this topic. :-) I'm really not happy with these windows. I was told they were "awning" windows and I assumed they would open as such, but they don't, they open only an inch or so. I was also told they were thermal windows, which they are not ... they are tinted, which does not mean thermal. Seems the problems with windows opening while being towed is so common that it should be considered a replacement issue by ETI. Just heard from someone else that the window next to their 21 bed opens and allows rain and road spray into and onto the bed! The windows are obviously not functioning properly. Why should we have to pay more than $2,000 for windows that need a fix immediately after purchase AND that don't open enough to allow a breeze through the trailer and are not thermal? Had the details been properly communicated (non-thermal and extremely limited opening and no positive closure and only glue holding the bottom bar to the glass), I would have opted for the standard sliding windows for no extra cost, and then had a custom window fabricated for the back window that opened fully for less than $2,000. I contacted Hehr who tells me there are no problems with the windows opening on their own (?!) so they offer no fix and no recompense. Lots of stuff I love about this 21, but the windows are really not ok. Even if they had been free, they are not ok. Since I paid extra for windows that don't work properly, this really isn't ok.
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Old 07-27-2018, 12:28 PM   #16
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These windows are thermal, double paned, tinted and open at the bottom to allow air but not rain. anything more than 3-4" would negate that benefit. With 8 opening awning windows in your 21 you should have plenty of air. If you are that unhappy, then you may want to sell and purchase the 2019 framed window model. The high resale value of the Escape should minimize any financial loss.
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:17 PM   #17
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Isn't there a rule on the forum about not arguing with someone? Harley maybe your windows don't have problems, but that doesn't mean other people have the same windows you do. This forum should be a place where we can discuss problems without being told there is no problem.

My windows are not thermal. The rubber between the two panes of glass is not sealed all the way around. The rubber is sealed only on the top and on the bottom, not on the sides. I can move the rubber with one finger and I see daylight between the rubber and the glass and I've already had water ingress during rain INSIDE one of the windows, in between the panes of glass .. so no, they are not thermal.
My windows don't open 3-4". Maybe some do, but mine don't. Maybe mine are built differently with a different length of "stop" inside the bottom bar. My windows don't open 3-4".
I've now been told that ETI has discontinued these windows which may indicate they know there are problems. I would hope that anyone who has windows with problems would get windows with no problems and be refunded the extra price we paid.
But in the meantime, my original request remains ... would anyone who has a temporary fix for preventing the windows from opening please post a photo of how you've done that? Much appreciated. :-)
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:33 PM   #18
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Isn't there a rule on the forum about not arguing with someone? Harley maybe your windows don't have problems, but that doesn't mean other people have the same windows you do. This forum should be a place where we can discuss problems without being told there is no problem.

My windows are not thermal. The rubber between the two panes of glass is not sealed all the way around. The rubber is sealed only on the top and on the bottom, not on the sides. I can move the rubber with one finger and I see daylight between the rubber and the glass and I've already had water ingress during rain INSIDE one of the windows, in between the panes of glass .. so no, they are not thermal.
My windows don't open 3-4". Maybe some do, but mine don't. Maybe mine are built differently with a different length of "stop" inside the bottom bar. My windows don't open 3-4".
I've now been told that ETI has discontinued these windows which may indicate they know there are problems. I would hope that anyone who has windows with problems would get windows with no problems and be refunded the extra price we paid.
But in the meantime, my original request remains ... would anyone who has a temporary fix for preventing the windows from opening please post a photo of how you've done that? Much appreciated. :-)
Uh, CPAHarley is one of the moderators for the forum - I'm fairly sure he knows the rules as he is one of those tasked with enforcing the rules. I don't think he was trying to argue but to point out how the frameless windows should be. As you seem to be unhappy with your Escape, either fixing the problems that you have or getting something else seems to be the two paths available. Personally, I would just get my windows fixed as Escape is a good trailer for the money.

If you are able to lift the seal between the two glasses and are getting water inside them, they are defective and can be replaced under warranty by contacting Reace at Escape Trailers. As close as you are to Escape, a short drive to Chilliwack and Escape will take care of any defective windows that you have.

I have the frameless windows and they do open about 4" and they are completely sealed between the outer and inner glasses.
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Old 07-27-2018, 05:40 PM   #19
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My windows are not thermal. The rubber between the two panes of glass is not sealed all the way around. The rubber is sealed only on the top and on the bottom, not on the sides. I can move the rubber with one finger and I see daylight between the rubber and the glass and I've already had water ingress during rain INSIDE one of the windows, in between the panes of glass .. so no, they are not thermal.

It sounds like your window is defective, which should be good news because if so then you should get a whole brand new window which should hopefully fix both the self-opening issue and the defective gasket between the panels. If you haven’t yet you should contact ETI about the thermal pane defect and see what they say, because despite your experience, these are in fact true dual pane, sealed, thermal windows. That’s what you paid for and that’s what you should get
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Old 07-28-2018, 10:31 AM   #20
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Eggscape Window Clamp

Sounds like you need the Eggscape Window Clamp...available at most hardware stores!
Just clips on and the handle stays under the window edge stopping the knob from turning.
May require some foam tape to on the clamp to prevent marking the window edge.
Good luck.
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