4.3 frig replacement door - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Problem Solving | Owners helping each other
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-07-2015, 06:17 PM   #21
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N/A, Indiana
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 976
Swizzle sticks. Dave, you win the creativity award. They must be used for a shallow cocktail at 2 3/8".
__________________
"Never argue with an idiot. They only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin
Jubal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 06:33 PM   #22
Senior Member
 
Zardoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Just finished installing our new door. Very easy swap out. I did not use the shims. I like the swizzle stick idea!! New door appears to have different insulation inside, may be more rigid and seems to close better because of being more rigid. Maybe wishful thinking too...

You do need to tape up the holes on the bottom same as old door. I also taped up the crack for the latch same as old door so it will not condensate at latch area when exhaust fan is on.

Now if it would just warm up so we could go camping.
Would you be kind enough to provide just a little detail on steps to remove the door? I'm confident that I can do it, but it's really something I don't want to mess up. If I did break something, all I'd have is are really expensive display case (but the blue LED light would look pretty cool). Thanks very much in advance!
Zardoz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 06:40 PM   #23
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
Tom
Thank you for the information. I probably will not remove the frig unless there is hope of a positive outcome. The bypass switch has proven ineffective for those that have tried it.
If you have positive results please post them.
Bob

I did this last spring and also installed a Valterra (Texas fan) about 6" from the roof vent. The lower factory fan seems to make the most improvement when running but it's noisy. You would know if it ever ran. We have kept the fridge in the 30's most of the time but as I posted before we have removed the freezer. When the outdoor temp is above 90 it still struggles.

When it was removed the fridge I
Added baffles
Insulated around the fridge
Insulated the outer wall of the camper
Wired the factory fan so I could run it
Added Texas fan
Extended the flue
Added a small 12 volt interior fan
Relocated the sensor
Set gas pressures and replaced defective regulator
And probably a few things I forgot. Hard to say which made the most improvement but everything combined seems to help. Figured if I waited on Dometic I would still be waiting 3 years from now and I wanted to camp and forget about this fridge stuff. The only other thing I would do is replace it if a new model came out that would fit.
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 07:06 PM   #24
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Would you be kind enough to provide just a little detail on steps to remove the door? I'm confident that I can do it, but it's really something I don't want to mess up. If I did break something, all I'd have is are really expensive display case (but the blue LED light would look pretty cool). Thanks very much in advance!
Sure here goes

Turn all power off and battery disconnect switch off

Remove all the door shelves

Open the door and look at the bottom of the control panel. There are 2 screws on the bottom you need to remove.

Slide the control panel straight out and the wires should be long enough to set it in the cabinet above the fridge. If not just have someone hold it because this won't take long. Watch your head on cabinet door if you leave it open (ask me how I know).

There is a screw in the top hinge pin you need to remove. Hold the door when you remove it. Unlatch the door and slide the bottom up off the bottom hinge pin. Look for a plastic spacer when you slide it up that sits on the bottom hindge pin and don't lose it. Make sure it stays on the pin.

Door is now removed. Set it aside and don't scratch the front.

Slide the new door over the bottom hinge pin. I do this by laying on the floor to make sure it is going in the proper hole and not in the groove off to the side. Have someone help you hold it if needed but I do it by myself. Its not heavy just keep it in the "almost" closed position.

Close the door and let it latch.

Reinstall the top hinge screw pin. New door is now on.

Reinstall the control panel by sliding it straight in and replacing the 2 screws. Watch that the wires are clear.

Tape up the latch crack and bottom hole at this time if you want.

Now you must remove the door panel. To do this pull straight out on the right side trim piece (see picture). Remove silver door panel and set aside. Pull straight out on left trim piece and remove.

Reverse install on new door.
Install left side trim piece by pushing straight into the slots.
Install panel.
Install right side trim piece

Be careful how you reinstall the door shelves because the door will not close properly if they are in the wrong position.

All done
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 07:10 PM   #25
Senior Member
 
Zardoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Sure here goes

Remove all the door shelfs

Open the door and look at the bottom of the control panel. There are 2 screws on the bottom you need to remove.

Slide the control panel straight out and the wires should be long enough to set it in the cabinet above the fridge. If not just have someone hold it because this won't take long.

There is a screw in the top hinge pin you need to remove. Hold the door when you remove it. Unlatch the door and slide the bottom up off the bottom hinge pin. Look for a plastic spacer when you slide it up that sits on the bottom hindge pin and don't lose it. Make sure it stays on the pin.

Door is now removed. Set it aside and don't scratch the front.

Slide the new door over the bottom hindge pin. I do this buy laying on the floor to make sure it is going in the proper hole and not in the grove off to the side.

Close the door and let it latch.

Reinstall the top screw pin. New door is now on.

Tape up the latch crack and bottom hole at this time if you want.

Now you must remove the door panel. To do this pull straight out on the right side trim piece (see picture. Remove silver door panel and set aside. Pull straight out on left trim price and remove.

Reverse install on new door.
Install left side trim piece by pushing straight in to the slots.
Install panel.
Install right side trim piece

All done

Thanks, Tom. You're a pal!! (Boy I LOVE this Forum!)
Zardoz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2015, 07:13 PM   #26
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
I was not done editing but you get the idea. iPad is getting harder to type on and Jim will get on me if I don't spell check.
It's fairly straight forward.

Another pic of trim removal. Pulls straight out
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 04:30 PM   #27
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Bob

I did this last spring and also installed a Valterra (Texas fan) about 6" from the roof vent. The lower factory fan seems to make the most improvement when running but it's noisy. You would know if it ever ran. We have kept the fridge in the 30's most of the time but as I posted before we have removed the freezer. When the outdoor temp is above 90 it still struggles.

When it was removed the fridge I
Added baffles
Insulated around the fridge
Insulated the outer wall of the camper
Wired the factory fan so I could run it
Added Texas fan
Extended the flue
Added a small 12 volt interior fan
Relocated the sensor
Set gas pressures and replaced defective regulator
And probably a few things I forgot. Hard to say which made the most improvement but everything combined seems to help. Figured if I waited on Dometic I would still be waiting 3 years from now and I wanted to camp and forget about this fridge stuff. The only other thing I would do is replace it if a new model came out that would fit.
Tom can I cut the 2 wires at the back of frig , from that factory fan, reinstall them for power at back of frig where I installed for fan that is inside frig. I installed ? Without removing the whole frig , just cutting the wires getting power at back and adding a switch I can control . I have 1 time heard that fan run . I was hooked up to 120 to go camping and it came on . I really don't at this time want to remove frig or if I don't have too mess with the temp sensor that fan is connected too . I would just make sure the ends I cut from sensor are taped off .
Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 06:12 PM   #28
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Short answer is yes but I would just install one of these in the back lower area mounted to the wall or somewhere instead of cutting the wires on the factory fan. It comes with a switch and has a temp sensor that I just bypassed and I turn it on with the switch when I want it.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2618VP FridgeCool 12 Volt Exhaust Fan: Automotive

I have one mounted up near the top vent but it is designed to be mounted anywhere. ETI had a RV shop install one in the back of Parker's fridge and installed the switch in the same area.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 06:13 PM   #29
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
IPad will only post one pic at a time
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 06:14 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: N/A, Indiana
Trailer: Escape
Posts: 976
As I suspected the replacement door does help solve the 4.3 frig cooling inefficiency problem . The door is the same size and weight. The only difference is the inventory number. With ambient temps above 82 degrees F. the frig does not cool below 40 degrees F. in any mode. Yes, I have had the Dometic frig serviced twice at my expense and was told that the frig is operating within the design Specs. The cooling capacity is inadequate for our climate. ETI continues to sell this refrigerator as the standard option for the 19'. WILL THERE EVER BE A FIX OR REPLACEMENT FOR THIS ? INDIANA TO ETI !!!!
__________________
"Never argue with an idiot. They only bring you down to their level and beat you with experience." George Carlin
Jubal is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 08:17 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
As I suspected the replacement door does help solve the 4.3 frig cooling inefficiency problem . The door is the same size and weight. The only difference is the inventory number. With ambient temps above 82 degrees F. the frig does not cool below 40 degrees F. in any mode. Yes, I have had the Dometic frig serviced twice at my expense and was told that the frig is operating within the design Specs. The cooling capacity is inadequate for our climate. ETI continues to sell this refrigerator as the standard option for the 19'. WILL THERE EVER BE A FIX OR REPLACEMENT FOR THIS ? INDIANA TO ETI !!!!
You are right Bob .When I received the new door I weighed both doors and they are the same weight . Just got back from camping trip to beach and outside temps were 50's to 60's . Frig on shaded side . Setting on 4 before we left home 2 days , only put cool food in , not packed . Made sure frig was level . Messed around different area's with my cu fan I installed with help of Kountry Kamper . Still on level 4 . Not much sun and we had cold wind . Frig stayed 37 . Until you open your door which we do fast , then frig would go up to 41-42. We also bring ice chest for all the drinks and if we don't want to get sick -meat , mayo ,milk .
The door is a scam . Disappointed . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 08:49 PM   #32
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Short answer is yes but I would just install one of these in the back lower area mounted to the wall or somewhere instead of cutting the wires on the factory fan. It comes with a switch and has a temp sensor that I just bypassed and I turn it on with the switch when I want it.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2618VP FridgeCool 12 Volt Exhaust Fan: Automotive

I have one mounted up near the top vent but it is designed to be mounted anywhere. ETI had a RV shop install one in the back of Parker's fridge and installed the switch in the same area.
My next mod . Thanks again . Shouldn't someone be paying us for all the time we spend to try to fix someone else's product we actually paid for ? What a great scam ! Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2015, 08:55 PM   #33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21C 2019 Expedition
Posts: 5,210
Jubal (Bob)- we all know you meant to say the new door does NOT help solve the 4.3 reefer issue for adequate cooling. Those of us with the 6.7 fridge who got the email over two weeks ago saying to contact Dometic are still waiting for new instructions as Dometic doesn't know what we're talking about.

What is going on at ETI? Fan boys stand down please!
Rossue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 06:44 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Pat

Shut your interior fan off before you open the door if it has a switch inside. The fan will actually blow some of the cold air out when you open the door.

Also if you have not removed your sensor from the coil you may want to try pulling it out of the plastic holder on the coil and tapeing to the wall. After removing ours, I run the fridge on 3 bars.

The difference I see in the two doors is that the new door has denser/stronger insulation inside. In our case the new door is stronger and does not flex like the old one so it seals better.
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 10:45 AM   #35
Senior Member
 
Zardoz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Marana, Arizona
Trailer: 2018 Airstream Flying Cloud (Escape 19 & 5.0 previously)
Posts: 1,078
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
... I have had the Dometic frig serviced twice at my expense and was told that the frig is operating within the design Specs. ... :
I too am one of those with an underperforming 4.3 fridge. One of the things that I haven't seen on any of these threads is Dometic's performance parameters. What specific, quantifiable expectations should we have in terms of temps? If we knew that, we'd know whether or not our fridges were, or were not, performing adequately. I also find it odd that this particular unit is designed for ( in part ) the Asian market. I lived in Laos for a couple of years and temps were often 110+. Wonder what those folks think of this unit?
Zardoz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 11:47 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Pat

Shut your interior fan off before you open the door if it has a switch inside. The fan will actually blow some of the cold air out when you open the door.

Also if you have not removed your sensor from the coil you may want to try pulling it out of the plastic holder on the coil and tapeing to the wall. After removing ours, I run the fridge on 3 bars.

The difference I see in the two doors is that the new door has denser/stronger insulation inside. In our case the new door is stronger and does not flex like the old one so it seals better.
Will shut fan off . It is right there on closet wall . Previous camping trip month ago same place a little warmer 70-80's had sensor taped to wall off fins as per Reace's suggestion , didn't find it worked better even thought it worked worst . As for the door do not notice any improvement at all . Went to rv lot looks at new frig 's which by the way are 2 door even in small rigs -have a slide for the sensor and up is colder , down is warmer . Maybe tape that sensor up instead of across might help . My older door seem to seal fine used a dollar bill trick , didn't flex and both weigh the same . Go figure . Wondering where the improvement.
Will get that fan for outside compartment too. That's where I'm at now .
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 02:28 PM   #37
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Will shut fan off . It is right there on closet wall . Previous camping trip month ago same place a little warmer 70-80's had sensor taped to wall off fins as per Reace's suggestion , didn't find it worked better even thought it worked worst . As for the door do not notice any improvement at all . Went to rv lot looks at new frig 's which by the way are 2 door even in small rigs -have a slide for the sensor and up is colder , down is warmer . Maybe tape that sensor up instead of across might help . My older door seem to seal fine used a dollar bill trick , didn't flex and both weigh the same . Go figure . Wondering where the improvement.
Will get that fan for outside compartment too. That's where I'm at now .
Have you sealed the latch area? The ceiling fan running on exhaust will pull the cooling out thru the latch. I tried a couple things but found blue painters tape to work best.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 02:30 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Some of the best improvements I found helpful did require pulling the fridge.

Insulating around the fridge
Insulating the exterior wall
Baffels, but I changed the design ETI sent out

Bottom line is these fridges are marginal even after making lots of mods. Above 90 degrees they are going to struggle. Before spending some time working on it myself it was not performing above 80 degrees. We are heading out in a couple weeks and it will be the real test. Im afraid in the summer I will still need a cooler.
Attached Thumbnails
image.jpg  
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 02:37 PM   #39
Senior Member
 
Patandlinda's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Have you sealed the latch area? I tried a couple things but found blue painters tape to work best.
Yep . Still haven't figured out the posting pics yet . Cut pieces of high density foam to pack openings with black sprinkler tape on top of that also got the bottom of door hole . Pat
Patandlinda is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2015, 02:49 PM   #40
Senior Member
 
Kountrykamper's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
Click go advanced. Scroll down and click manage attachments. Click choose file, then hit upload. Scroll down and close that window and submit reply
__________________
Tom
Kountrykamper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2023 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.