4.3 frig replacement door - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 04-07-2015, 07:17 PM   #21
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Swizzle sticks. Dave, you win the creativity award. They must be used for a shallow cocktail at 2 3/8".
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Just finished installing our new door. Very easy swap out. I did not use the shims. I like the swizzle stick idea!! New door appears to have different insulation inside, may be more rigid and seems to close better because of being more rigid. Maybe wishful thinking too...

You do need to tape up the holes on the bottom same as old door. I also taped up the crack for the latch same as old door so it will not condensate at latch area when exhaust fan is on.

Now if it would just warm up so we could go camping.
Would you be kind enough to provide just a little detail on steps to remove the door? I'm confident that I can do it, but it's really something I don't want to mess up. If I did break something, all I'd have is are really expensive display case (but the blue LED light would look pretty cool). Thanks very much in advance!
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Old 04-07-2015, 07:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Jubal View Post
Tom
Thank you for the information. I probably will not remove the frig unless there is hope of a positive outcome. The bypass switch has proven ineffective for those that have tried it.
If you have positive results please post them.
Bob

I did this last spring and also installed a Valterra (Texas fan) about 6" from the roof vent. The lower factory fan seems to make the most improvement when running but it's noisy. You would know if it ever ran. We have kept the fridge in the 30's most of the time but as I posted before we have removed the freezer. When the outdoor temp is above 90 it still struggles.

When it was removed the fridge I
Added baffles
Insulated around the fridge
Insulated the outer wall of the camper
Wired the factory fan so I could run it
Added Texas fan
Extended the flue
Added a small 12 volt interior fan
Relocated the sensor
Set gas pressures and replaced defective regulator
And probably a few things I forgot. Hard to say which made the most improvement but everything combined seems to help. Figured if I waited on Dometic I would still be waiting 3 years from now and I wanted to camp and forget about this fridge stuff. The only other thing I would do is replace it if a new model came out that would fit.
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:06 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Would you be kind enough to provide just a little detail on steps to remove the door? I'm confident that I can do it, but it's really something I don't want to mess up. If I did break something, all I'd have is are really expensive display case (but the blue LED light would look pretty cool). Thanks very much in advance!
Sure here goes

Turn all power off and battery disconnect switch off

Remove all the door shelves

Open the door and look at the bottom of the control panel. There are 2 screws on the bottom you need to remove.

Slide the control panel straight out and the wires should be long enough to set it in the cabinet above the fridge. If not just have someone hold it because this won't take long. Watch your head on cabinet door if you leave it open (ask me how I know).

There is a screw in the top hinge pin you need to remove. Hold the door when you remove it. Unlatch the door and slide the bottom up off the bottom hinge pin. Look for a plastic spacer when you slide it up that sits on the bottom hindge pin and don't lose it. Make sure it stays on the pin.

Door is now removed. Set it aside and don't scratch the front.

Slide the new door over the bottom hinge pin. I do this by laying on the floor to make sure it is going in the proper hole and not in the groove off to the side. Have someone help you hold it if needed but I do it by myself. Its not heavy just keep it in the "almost" closed position.

Close the door and let it latch.

Reinstall the top hinge screw pin. New door is now on.

Reinstall the control panel by sliding it straight in and replacing the 2 screws. Watch that the wires are clear.

Tape up the latch crack and bottom hole at this time if you want.

Now you must remove the door panel. To do this pull straight out on the right side trim piece (see picture). Remove silver door panel and set aside. Pull straight out on left trim piece and remove.

Reverse install on new door.
Install left side trim piece by pushing straight into the slots.
Install panel.
Install right side trim piece

Be careful how you reinstall the door shelves because the door will not close properly if they are in the wrong position.

All done
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Sure here goes

Remove all the door shelfs

Open the door and look at the bottom of the control panel. There are 2 screws on the bottom you need to remove.

Slide the control panel straight out and the wires should be long enough to set it in the cabinet above the fridge. If not just have someone hold it because this won't take long.

There is a screw in the top hinge pin you need to remove. Hold the door when you remove it. Unlatch the door and slide the bottom up off the bottom hinge pin. Look for a plastic spacer when you slide it up that sits on the bottom hindge pin and don't lose it. Make sure it stays on the pin.

Door is now removed. Set it aside and don't scratch the front.

Slide the new door over the bottom hindge pin. I do this buy laying on the floor to make sure it is going in the proper hole and not in the grove off to the side.

Close the door and let it latch.

Reinstall the top screw pin. New door is now on.

Tape up the latch crack and bottom hole at this time if you want.

Now you must remove the door panel. To do this pull straight out on the right side trim piece (see picture. Remove silver door panel and set aside. Pull straight out on left trim price and remove.

Reverse install on new door.
Install left side trim piece by pushing straight in to the slots.
Install panel.
Install right side trim piece

All done

Thanks, Tom. You're a pal!! (Boy I LOVE this Forum!)
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Old 04-07-2015, 08:13 PM   #26
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I was not done editing but you get the idea. iPad is getting harder to type on and Jim will get on me if I don't spell check.
It's fairly straight forward.

Another pic of trim removal. Pulls straight out
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Old 05-08-2015, 05:30 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Bob

I did this last spring and also installed a Valterra (Texas fan) about 6" from the roof vent. The lower factory fan seems to make the most improvement when running but it's noisy. You would know if it ever ran. We have kept the fridge in the 30's most of the time but as I posted before we have removed the freezer. When the outdoor temp is above 90 it still struggles.

When it was removed the fridge I
Added baffles
Insulated around the fridge
Insulated the outer wall of the camper
Wired the factory fan so I could run it
Added Texas fan
Extended the flue
Added a small 12 volt interior fan
Relocated the sensor
Set gas pressures and replaced defective regulator
And probably a few things I forgot. Hard to say which made the most improvement but everything combined seems to help. Figured if I waited on Dometic I would still be waiting 3 years from now and I wanted to camp and forget about this fridge stuff. The only other thing I would do is replace it if a new model came out that would fit.
Tom can I cut the 2 wires at the back of frig , from that factory fan, reinstall them for power at back of frig where I installed for fan that is inside frig. I installed ? Without removing the whole frig , just cutting the wires getting power at back and adding a switch I can control . I have 1 time heard that fan run . I was hooked up to 120 to go camping and it came on . I really don't at this time want to remove frig or if I don't have too mess with the temp sensor that fan is connected too . I would just make sure the ends I cut from sensor are taped off .
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:12 PM   #28
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Short answer is yes but I would just install one of these in the back lower area mounted to the wall or somewhere instead of cutting the wires on the factory fan. It comes with a switch and has a temp sensor that I just bypassed and I turn it on with the switch when I want it.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2618VP FridgeCool 12 Volt Exhaust Fan: Automotive

I have one mounted up near the top vent but it is designed to be mounted anywhere. ETI had a RV shop install one in the back of Parker's fridge and installed the switch in the same area.
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:13 PM   #29
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IPad will only post one pic at a time
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Old 05-08-2015, 07:14 PM   #30
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As I suspected the replacement door does help solve the 4.3 frig cooling inefficiency problem . The door is the same size and weight. The only difference is the inventory number. With ambient temps above 82 degrees F. the frig does not cool below 40 degrees F. in any mode. Yes, I have had the Dometic frig serviced twice at my expense and was told that the frig is operating within the design Specs. The cooling capacity is inadequate for our climate. ETI continues to sell this refrigerator as the standard option for the 19'. WILL THERE EVER BE A FIX OR REPLACEMENT FOR THIS ? INDIANA TO ETI !!!!
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