40 amp fuse in the battery box in the 2017 5TA - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 01-23-2017, 07:38 PM   #1
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40 amp fuse in the battery box in the 2017 5TA

We were without DC power in the trailer on the way to California in our new 5TA, unless hooked up to the truck. Reace helped us problem solve that it was the blown 40 amp fuse in the battery box. There was so much to learn during the orientation, we seemed to miss that piece of information. The fuse only costs 75 cents, so we have extras now. It is possible that we blew the fuse when disconnecting the power from the 120 at the house the day we left, if we touched the plug against the metal frame on the trailer. This is just a heads up!
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:52 PM   #2
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Touching the prongs on the male cord cap of the 120 VAC service cord to the frame of the trailer will / should not blow the 40 amp fuse protecting your battery . There is another reason that the fuse blew.
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Old 01-23-2017, 08:16 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
There is another reason that the fuse blew.
I would look into why this happened, for sure. To blow that fuse you would most likely be a dead short of the positive to either ground or negative. Did you do anything with the 12V DC system, like access the batteries? Really just guessing here.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:43 AM   #4
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So not to change the subject but how are you two doing in the weather down there in PS?
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:19 AM   #5
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There are several types of 12v fuses used in your trailer, you should try to carry spares, both big and small. My 40 amp was tripped when getting it inspected and they manually applied the emergency brakes. Had no juice until reset.
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Old 01-24-2017, 12:22 PM   #6
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I would look into why this happened, for sure. To blow that fuse you would most likely be a dead short of the positive to either ground or negative. Did you do anything with the 12V DC system, like access the batteries? Really just guessing here.
There are several scenarios which could cause this problem , but most of them are highly unlikely and would only be caused by failure of multiple systems. There are too many facts missing
(IE , Does it have an inverter , what was running at the time of the incident , did he make any adjustments / tamper with the electrical system , are there signs of damage / burning , etc ?) from the OP's post and his decription is too unclear to diagnose the problem over the Internet .
As Jim stated , blowing a 40 amp fuse indicates there is a major issue and the cause needs to be found . Replacing the fuse does not solve the problem or remove the hazard.
That's why NFPA 70 exists and why you are required to find out
what caused the overcurrent device to trip / open.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:13 PM   #7
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We blew the 40amp fuse on our trip across the country last fall. I noticed the brake controller was showing a ground fault as we drove along and that day I discovered the blown fuse when we pulled in to camp that afternoon. The cable from the controller to the hitch (which I installed) had drooped down and became abraded by the driveshaft. I was glad to find that the problem was so obvious and spent an hour under the truck splicing the cable and zip-tying it out of the way. No problems since then. We were so fortunate to find a fuse at a general store in the small town about 10 miles away.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:39 PM   #8
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We blew the 40amp fuse on our trip across the country last fall. I noticed the brake controller was showing a ground fault as we drove along and that day I discovered the blown fuse when we pulled in to camp that afternoon. The cable from the controller to the hitch (which I installed) had drooped down and became abraded by the driveshaft. I was glad to find that the problem was so obvious and spent an hour under the truck splicing the cable and zip-tying it out of the way. No problems since then. We were so fortunate to find a fuse at a general store in the small town about 10 miles away.
The brake controller in you vehicle gets its' 12 VDC power supply from the tow vehicle .
The wire going from the brake controller to the trailer brakes also gets its ' 12 VDC power from the tow vehicle through the brake controller.
If the 12 VDC power wire from the tow vehicle to the trailer brakes is shorted out or grounded a fuse in the vehicle would blow , not the trailer battery fuse.
The only time the trailer brakes are powered from the trailer battery is when the breakaway switch is activated.
If the break away switch was activated , your trailer was connected to the tow vehicle and the wire from the brake controller to the 7 pin receptacle on your vehicle was shorted out then the trailer battery fuse could / would blow .
The above statements are based on the assumption that your brake wiring conforms with standard wiring procedures.

Your brake controller looks for a resistance reading through the brakes magnet coils . If it see zero or too low of a resistance it will show that there is a ground / short circuit . If the brake controller reads high resistance or an open circuit it will show no brakes or brakes disconnected. If you leave the engine of your vehicle running , unplug the seven wire trailer plug from the vehicle , you will get a warning light on your vehicle dash or your brake controller telling you that you have lost your trailer brakes
( This does nothat apply to all vehicles )
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:45 PM   #9
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What a shock this weather is after the past two wonderful years. However, it will not last!
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:48 PM   #10
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Thanks for all the input. Reace suggested the prong issue. We are rather hooped now, as we are in a park for 10 weeks, and if this happens again will not be able to dry camp from Palm Springs to Chilliwack. At least everything is working well on 120AC and when hooked up to the truck. We do have an inverter, and yes, I did lift the battery cover lid....have no understanding of any of this!
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