6.7 Cubic Foot Fridge Performance - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-14-2013, 12:15 AM   #11
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We're the ones who started the thread, referred to above, titled "Refrigerator not cooling on the road." Ours has always cooled fine when the camper is stationary, but cools poorly, if at all, during warm weather if the camper is in motion. First we tried installing a baffle between the camper wall and the coils, trying to mimic the installation in the Dometic manual. This made no difference. Then, after they conferred with Dometic, a Dometic service center installed a fan behind the top grill (wall-type grill). So far it appears that this has made no difference. --Jay & Liz
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:20 AM   #12
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Liz, did you put an air baffle on the air inlet grill? This is standard practice if you don't want the propane flame to go out while traveling. When traveling do you use propane or 12Volts or is it off....and have you checked your gas pressure?
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:39 AM   #13
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To answer you, hotfishtacos,

The propane flame definitely stays on while traveling and that is not the problem. I have ridden in the trailer under tow more than once to verify this. The baffle we installed is shown in one of the entries on our blog if you want to see it, but we removed that baffle when it didn't improve things. After that the new fan went in as the next big experiment. Subsequently, on a big trip in colder weather, the fridge cooled fine, even on the road. But on the latest tow, done specifically to test the refrigerator on an 84-degree day, the fridge temp went up significantly in about a half hour of towing.

While traveling we use propane for the fridge. We're going to pursue this whole thing further with the Dometic service center when we get back from an upcoming big trip. I can't answer you about gas pressure. I'm out of my element on that one.

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Old 08-14-2013, 08:29 AM   #14
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The outer fiberglass wall isn't insulated, and there is quite a bit of space between the back of the fridge and the wall....both areas I may be able to improve.
I'm going to follow up with Escape on this, I asked specifically about this because of winter camping I felt a lot of cold air intrusion back there.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:33 AM   #15
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The outer fiberglass wall isn't insulated, and there is quite a bit of space between the back of the fridge and the wall....both areas I may be able to improve.
I'm going to follow up with Escape on this, I asked specifically about this because of winter camping I felt a lot of cold air intrusion back there.
Just to clarify, there is indeed several inches between the back of the fridge and the outer, uninsulated fiberglass wall of the Escape. However, I don't see the connection between this and air cold air coming in during winter camping. This entire area is vented to the outside, so the temperature in there is always going to be very close to whatever is outside. I am considering insulating it so the sun doesn't heat it up so much in there, which detracts from fridge performance on hot days. If you're getting cold air intrusion into the living area of the camper, that sounds more like an issue with the seal around the fridge itself.
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:37 AM   #16
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True, and upon retrospect Reace did say the area around the refer itself was insulated, meaning little cold air intrusion into the living space was happening.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:11 PM   #17
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This is what we use at work

Yellow Jacket 78060 Gas Pressure Test Kit HVAC NEW [Misc.]: Amazon.com: Home Improvement

Allows you to measure it at the appliance. I would set it at 11.5". The .5" can make a big difference.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:54 PM   #18
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This is what we use at work

Yellow Jacket 78060 Gas Pressure Test Kit HVAC NEW [Misc.]: Amazon.com: Home Improvement

Allows you to measure it at the appliance. I would set it at 11.5". The .5" can make a big difference.
That looks like a really nice unit, although I'm pretty attached to my water U-tube. Bring it along to the next Eggscursion and we'll compare. I probably should check it right at the fridge, though.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:13 PM   #19
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That looks like a really nice unit, although I'm pretty attached to my water U-tube. Bring it along to the next Eggscursion and we'll compare. I probably should check it right at the fridge, though.
I also use a home-made Manometer to test gas pressure. It is easy to test system pressure it at the low pressure quick-disconnect outside near the door. The whole system will be at the same pressure when everything is turned off. It is interesting to turn on the stove burners or the refrigerator and watch the pressure drop.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:39 PM   #20
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Do the directions say to check standing pressure or running pressure?
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