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08-14-2013, 03:47 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper
Do the directions say to check standing pressure or running pressure?
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That's a great question. I've read on-line that it's meant to be the pressure while running, but that was not from the manufacturer. The only thing I can find in the Dometic installation manual is: "The gas supply system must incorporate a pressure regulator to maintain a supply pressure of no more than 13.5 inches water column, static (no load)". So there is a fair amount of latitude between what we all hear about 11" and what Dometic says is the max with no flow. On both our Casita and on the Escape, I had to turn the regulator adjustment quite a bit to even get to 11". It would be really helpful to talk with an actual Dometic tech to find out exactly how they intend to set the pressure.
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08-14-2013, 04:12 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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This is off the Dometic site but may not be your exact refrigerator.
The LP gas pressure should be checked and the main
regulator readjusted if pressure is incorrect. The cor-
rect operating pressure is 11 inches of water column.
The correct place to take the LP gas pressure is at
the test port just ahead of the burner jet. (See FIG. 12)
I would interpret operating pressure as running pressure. Everything we work on we adjust while it is running and check it at the unit. I cannot get the picture to copy but shows taking the reading at the test port at the refrigerator while it is running and that’s what it is saying. Probably why they want it at 11" instead of 11.5".
__________________
Tom
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08-14-2013, 04:28 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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That's pretty clear. I'll give that a try. So far, I can't tell much difference between propane, 120V, or 12V in terms of cooling. With both our small units in the Scamp and Casita, propane was much more effective than either electric option. I suppose if it's still low on this one, it could again be more effective if cranked up. Thanks for digging that up.
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08-14-2013, 04:43 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2002 Escape 13'
Posts: 967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kountrykamper
Do the directions say to check standing pressure or running pressure?
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I can't answer that but I adjusted mine with the refrigerator running to account for the pressure drop. I believe it drops about 1/2 of a number. It is adjusted at 11.5 while running with everything else off.
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08-15-2013, 03:56 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Omaha, Nebraska
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Posts: 238
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For people with a 19 and side vent at the top of the refrigerator, here is some news about a new baffle. This was installed today by our Dometic service center (and RV dealership). This is another attempt to cure our 5 cubic foot refrigerator, and get it to cool while being towed. It is a piece of white aluminum custom-fabricated to fit our Escape 19. The theory is that air may be entering the top vent at highway speed, preventing the warm air from leaving the refrigerator coils. This baffle is meant to redirect the air away from the vent and create a "wake" (low pressure zone). We'll post again when we have data. We'll post some pictures on our blog. --Jay and Liz
__________________
2012 Escape 19 towed by 2012 Ford Flex
See lots more about our Escape at https://kibitka.blogspot.com/
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08-15-2013, 04:22 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Highland Park, New Jersey
Trailer: Escape 19 February 2014
Posts: 975
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"The fridges are now vented out of the top on both the 19' Escape and the 21' Escape and Reace has recently changed the baffle in hopes of improving circulation."
Tammy just sent that to me. I was thinking that perhaps it is a problem with the large frig, but it seems from this thread that folks with the smaller ones are having the same issue.
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08-15-2013, 08:11 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Highland Park, New Jersey
Trailer: Escape 19 February 2014
Posts: 975
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Terry just reminded me that when we traveled in the airstream with a dometic frig we weren't in particularly hot places.
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08-15-2013, 09:22 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthe
"I was thinking that perhaps it is a problem with the large frig, but it seems from this thread that folks with the smaller ones are having the same issue.
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I can't find where the small fridge was talked about being a problem but I'm a little slow sometimes.
__________________
Tom
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08-15-2013, 10:03 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Look back at my original posting. I included a link to the other discussion, so I could try to have this thread focus on the 6.7 cu ft model. I'm not sure there is a widespread issue with either one. It seems that some people do fine with the 5 cu ft model and others have all sorts of strange things happening. Apparently there aren't enough 6.7s out there to get any sort of consensus, but I understand Reace is engaged in trying to improve its operation. That's a huge benefit, having the owners using their products and experiencing some of the same things we are.
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08-16-2013, 06:53 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Middle, Tennessee
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19' #2
Posts: 1,441
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Missed that. Thanks.
__________________
Tom
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08-16-2013, 07:34 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I had no issues with the smaller 3.0 in my 19'. Maybe someone may want to start a thread where we can list the model and if issues were prevalent.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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05-04-2014, 10:04 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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New Fan Kit?
A few months ago I talked with Reace (again) about our ongoing challenges with our 6.7 cu ft. It has since quit entirely on propane, so maybe this will now be fairly easy to diagnose. I see a small propane flame in there, but it seems to stay at a pilot light level regardless of control position. I tried the fridge on 120V over night when we got home and the freezer went to -1 and the fridge to 31F, so cooling doesn't seem to be an issue given a working heat source.
Reace described a new, optional fan kit they're installing now with the 6.7 fridge. Does anyone have any experience with this fan setup to share with us? Since we're taking ours in for service, I may have the fan kit installed. Unfortunately it means removing the fridge, but if really helps, it would be worth the trouble/expense.
By the way....one thing I learned while reading the Dometic warranty. Said warranty is only good if a licensed Dometic technician does an annual checkup on the fridge. I guess our repair will constitute our first checkup since buying our Escape last June.
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05-05-2014, 07:27 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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This maybe the "Texas Fan" kit they are using. Is your 19' the style with the refer side vents or the newer roof vent. I recall that the roof vent helps improve cooling in the bigger units.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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05-05-2014, 09:40 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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Ours has the roof vent. I've talked to a couple of others with the big fridge, with roof vent, of about our vintage, and fridge performance has been a disappointment to them also. There is way more space between the back of the fridge and the wall of the Escape than Dometic recommends, so I've always wondered if there is enough chimney effect for proper cooling, especially in warm weather. Reace said he tried adding baffling to the back side of the fridge, with no discernible improvement so I've been slow to take on that project, which would require working down through the top vent or pulling the fridge to get sufficient access to fill in some of the space (thinking HVAC insulation board or similar).
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05-05-2014, 09:52 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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I installed a battery operate inside fan which circulates the cool air. i also have 2 thermometers, both wireless, in the refer and freezer section. The receiver has a max/min for each unit. On a recent 12 hour trip (cooled down on 120v but towed on propane) setting of #3 and not on auto but on manual for propane(sometimes the auto may try battery) my min was 1 degree to a max of 10 degrees in freezer and my refer min was 36 to a high of 40. These were the readings on my thermometer. Outside temperatures were from 40 to 80.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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05-05-2014, 11:11 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Yellow Springs, Ohio
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19
Posts: 709
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For those outside temperatures, that's similar to what I'm seeing (before the propane operation failed), using the same measuring setup, also with fan inside. Let the temps start bumping into the 90's though, and it starts falling pretty short.
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05-05-2014, 01:33 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ, Arizona
Trailer: gone, 19 and 21 & 17B with 5.0 now. gone
Posts: 790
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6.7 fridge
I'm still fighting the warm problem. During the drive back from Texas we had refrig temps in the 50's and tossed food. We were on propane at 5 marks and we had three fans running, two to blow up over the coils and one circulating air inside. There was a lot of strong headwind and the temp was 70 to 80f. I do not have a manometer (yet) so I just cranked the regulator a half turn at a time and watched the flame. Now one complete turn and I would think that would give me another inch of pressure. I'll monitor it today and then as we cross monument valley tomorrow I'll see if anything helps. I did disconnect one fan below the coils in case it was too much air flow. Nancy is getting nervous about gas and driving as we saw a motorhome in flames last week on our way home, just the frame work was left and miles from a town.
Today the trailer is in the shade but it is 90 degrees and only cooled items being loaded.
Jack
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05-05-2014, 02:59 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Highland Park, New Jersey
Trailer: Escape 19 February 2014
Posts: 975
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Do any of you have the Texas fan?
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