6.7 Fridge Leaking Cold Air!!! - Page 11 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-27-2014, 02:04 PM   #101
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Driving west from Virginia in Mid July I had the freezer door removed and was getting around 37 at 5 bars. Once we hit Colorado with temps sometimes near 87 it was doing better so I put the freezer door back in. I only measure the fridge and get down to 29 by the morning and up to 32 during the day. If we open the door a lot and are putting in new food it will go up to 34. The fridge side has been south for the past two weeks. I have stated turning it down to 4 bars at night and then up to 5 during the day. We have fresh peaches in the freezer and they freeze hard as a rock. I am bascally satisfied with mine. Our 6.7 is stock and we use a small block fan.
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Old 08-27-2014, 02:06 PM   #102
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...Is there anyone out there who has a 6.7 fridge and is happy with it? or is the discontent universal?
We live in northern Alberta where hot temperatures are definitely not the norm. However, we did spend 3 weeks this past summer in SW USA (mostly WY, UT, AZ, CO) with daytime highs varying in range of 33°C to 43°C. Our fridge operated on propane most of that time, with about 1/3 days at sites with electricity. We had no issues with our 2013 6.7cu ft fridge not keeping up with the cooling. We never noticed any problems, food stayed cold in fridge, food froze and stayed frozen in freezer (my wife passed out freezies to heat suffering neighbor kids in Devil's Garden CG in Moab). So for us, I would have to say that up until now, we have had no negative performance issues with ours.
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:29 PM   #103
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I'm still holding 37/3 with it being 87 inside camper and 91 outside, on electric, setting #3, interior fans on.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:41 PM   #104
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Hi Jim, Reace said that AC electric does work better then gas. I wonder if you can do any gas testing, like switching for a day?

We dry camp whenever possible so I have disconnected DC and AC to force the refrig into gas for my tests. I know I can switch to 'gas' but want to trick the AES system into 'thinking' there is only gas to allow it to use it's logic (if it has any..).

Mel
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:59 PM   #105
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I'll be using gas next week for a 18 hour drive to Michigan and report my findings.
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:18 PM   #106
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Hi Jim, Reace said that AC electric does work better then gas. I wonder if you can do any gas testing, like switching for a day?

We dry camp whenever possible so I have disconnected DC and AC to force the refrig into gas for my tests. I know I can switch to 'gas' but want to trick the AES system into 'thinking' there is only gas to allow it to use it's logic (if it has any..).

Mel
Hi: Klem... We have stopped travelling on propane with our 5.0TA and we now use 12V. with the 160W solar panel. Now I'm glad we went solar!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:19 PM   #107
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Alf, you never did answer me, is your refer the 6.7 with the door slots?
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:29 PM   #108
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Alf, you never did answer me, is your refer the 6.7 with the door slots?
Hi: cpaharley2008... Sorry!!! We're not at home and I haven't had time to get inside the 6.7's door to see. So far we just stopped using the MaxxFan with the trailer closed, and running 12V. while towing. Tonight the fridge is at 34*F@ 5 bars... outside temp was 80*F using 120V. all day. I'll open up the door skin when I get home Mon. and report what I find then. Alf
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:03 PM   #109
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I have to wonder if ETI is picking up this thread about the door air leakage. Has to be a very big hammer to use with Dometic - cool the fridge, then lose that due to a poor design? Seems like a significant design flaw IMHO; as a retired design/project engineer I'd be busting my buns were I working at Dometic to figure out how the flaw made it into production...........
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:21 PM   #110
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I was having some fridge discussions with Reace and sent him the link on this thread when it was discovered. Im sure he has made Dometic aware of it.

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