6.7 Fridge Leaking Cold Air!!! - Page 20 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-03-2014, 05:54 PM   #191
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....If the fridge still fits in the enclosure with some extra foam boards attached to the sides top and back, it might cool better. Just throwing it out there.
Bryan, I would also like to add or replace the factory insulation in my refer. From what I've read, Polyisocyanurate board is about the best you can get for R rating at around 6.5 per inch of thickness. This is a common roofing insulator. It is also readily available at home improvement stores. For non-flat shaped areas like the top or sides then glass mat may be best...has anyone taken apart their door and taken a pic?
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:02 PM   #192
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Could the insulation also go in wall cavities ?
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:05 PM   #193
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Could the insulation also go in wall cavities ?
Yes, and it may be worth it to remove those thin wood strips near the back on each side and replace with solid Polyisocyanurate board. Maybe an 1" or more thickness will fit....UPDATE: I did a quick measurement and on my 19' I can get 2" in there on each side. This translates to an extra R-Rating of about 12.8 per side (assuming 3.2 per 1/2").
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:27 PM   #194
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Yes, and it may be worth it to remove those thin wood strips near the back on each side and replace with solid Polyisocyanurate board. Maybe an 1" or more thickness will fit....UPDATE: I did a quick measurement and on my 19' I can get 2" in there on each side. This translates to an extra R-Rating of about 12.8 per side (assuming 3.2 per 1/2").
Yeah, i would think adding it to the sides, top and even the back (perhaps smaller 'pieced-in' sections attached to each other with foil tape like used in AC work) would have positive results. I don't know what the bottom looks like, but maybe even adding it there if fit permits.

I think you're volunteering!

I found the insulation at Lowes too:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_101641-1722-...a&kpid=3851109
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:34 PM   #195
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Yeah, i would think adding it to the sides, top and even the back (perhaps smaller 'pieced-in' sections attached to each other with foil tape like used in AC work) would have positive results. I don't know what the bottom looks like, but maybe even adding it there if fit permits.

I think you're volunteering! ....
As soon a we get back from the Jalama beach trip next week I'm going in!!....
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:38 PM   #196
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...I'm also thinking of boxing-in the back of the refer over the coil section with sheet metal so that air flow across the coils is managed by this ducting, separated from the size or shape of the back enclosure. Additionally I would insulate the enclosure so it can't get directly heated by the sun.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:46 PM   #197
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Here is a picture of the back that I mined off the internet...

Thanks for posting the picture of the back of our refrigerator. Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:59 PM   #198
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Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
That makes sense, but if venting the unit out the side wall (instead of the roof, a flue extending to the very top of the appliance would not work well. One extending to the roof vent would need to be specifically suited to the ceiling height of the RV, and the refrigerator manufacturer would not want to make a version to accommodate every different RV height.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:17 PM   #199
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Thanks for the photos. I was more referring to the fridge cabinet itself -- and not the enclosure it sits in. Much research has revealed that the main difference between tropical rated fridges and subnormal rated fridges (and the grades in between) is the amount of insulation in the fridge cabinet itself. I've seen some photos online of owners who have added rigid foam boards to the outside and some have added it to the inside.

If the fridge still fits in the enclosure with some extra foam boards attached to the sides top and back, it might cool better. Just throwing it out there.
The fridge will not fit in the opening with anything attached to it. It's very tight and you have to remove the molding to get it out. The only place to add insulation is inside the opening past the framing studs.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:22 PM   #200
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Thanks for posting the picture of the back of our refrigerator. Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
Been there done that too. Existing flue does exhaust on condenser some especially when a baffle is installed. Manufactured a new flue to get it above the coils. Noticed no difference but it had to help some to get it above the condenser. You can't go up much higher then the fridge and still be able to slide it in. You would have to remove the roof vent and do it from the top to go any longer.

I found that Dometic actually manufactures something similar to this but seems to only be sold in Australia.
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