6.7 Fridge Leaking Cold Air!!! - Page 4 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:40 PM   #61
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Jim, have you done the insulation fix in the door? It seems to me that right now that is our best hope until Reace gets something back from Dometic
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:55 PM   #62
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Yesterday I put the FF fan just inside the vent hatch so the fans would draw cool air in and send it up the flue. The temp in the frig tracked 2 degrees higher then the day before ....

Seems like the FF fan in that location blocked more air then it moved. Next I will disassemble the FF and just use the individual fans. I do have the Texas fan installed so maybe I will just turn it on 100% and see what it does for 24 hours.
Pushing air around all the hardware will create a fair amount of turbulence that could reduce the net airflow compared to pure convection and a more laminar flow; when I get my 21 home I plan to put fans at the top vent and see if sucking the air out helps.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:43 PM   #63
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Pushing air around all the hardware will create a fair amount of turbulence that could reduce the net airflow compared to pure convection and a more laminar flow; when I get my 21 home I plan to put fans at the top vent and see if sucking the air out helps.
Before you spend to much time mounting a fan up high which requires either removing the fridge or roof vent, try installing one in the lower part of the fridge which is much easier and try it.

I installed one high and one low and have found the low one by itself works as well as the upper one. I was kind of surprised by the result of the upper one and expected it to work better then the lower one.

If you getting the Texas fridge option I'm not sure where ETI mounts the fan.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:48 PM   #64
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For what its worth my fridge was 30 degrees this morning measured on the door. I do have the freezer removed but this is 4 degrees lower then I have ever been able to get it with the freezer removed before. It was 80 degrees inside the garage this morning where the camper is and inside the camper was 85 because I have a dehumidifier running.

Also yesterday I open the fridge door and drove the fridge temps up from 31 to 39 and in the heat of the afternoon (88 degrees, 87% humidity) I was able to pull it back down to 31 in 3 hours.

I have exterior fans but have not ran them so I could see what it would do. I have had a little interior fan running.

Maybe its just wishful thinking but the fridge seems to be working better.
Tom, Just wondering if you continued your experiment,and if so, what the results are today. Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:46 PM   #65
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Currently at 90 degrees outside, 84 inside trailer and I'm holding 40 degrees in refer and 3 in the freezer. The interior ff fans have been on a week now. I'm facing south so the afternoon sun is now on the kitchen side.
Currently 92 outside, 88 inside, fridge on electric @ 4 of 5, 40 degrees in refer and 3 in the freezer, completely stock unit. Oh yea, the fridge side is in direct sun since about noon, also have had the ceiling fan on all day on exhaust. Of all the testing and mods many have been doing, has anything actually made a difference?
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:50 PM   #66
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Jim, have you done the insulation fix in the door? It seems to me that right now that is our best hope until Reace gets something back from Dometic
I did the plug at the bottom of the door but not the entire panel removal yet. My Maxxfan is not running right now. Have not done the candle test yet.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:10 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Kountrykamper View Post
Before you spend to much time mounting a fan up high which requires either removing the fridge or roof vent, try installing one in the lower part of the fridge which is much easier and try it.

I installed one high and one low and have found the low one by itself works as well as the upper one. I was kind of surprised by the result of the upper one and expected it to work better then the lower one.

If you getting the Texas fridge option I'm not sure where ETI mounts the fan.
I figured I'd take off the vent cover and see what I have to work for space for mounting the exhaust fan on the outside of the bug screen. The screen itself blocks a lot of airflow, so if a fan makes a measurable difference without the bug screen blocking airflow, seems like a flapper style exhaust (like used on clothes dryer vents) might provide a higher flow volume when the fan is on but still close to keep the bugs out when the fan is off. I didn't order the Texas fan option.
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Old 08-26-2014, 05:58 PM   #68
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Tom, Just wondering if you continued your experiment,and if so, what the results are today. Thanks.
Yelp, fridge is still running but I do have freezer removed. We have decided that because we don't use the freezer that much we would rather have the additional fridge space, extra shelfs, and added cooling capacity. I have left it on 5 bars most of the time and it has been sitting on 30-31 degrees for 3 days now. No exterior fans running, small interior fan running inside the fridge. Max ceiling fan is still running. If I drop it to 4 bars it runs around 35 and 3 bars runs 38-39. If I was to run a outside fan I think I could actually get it to 29 if I wanted a big freezer because my thermometer has max/min readings on it and it has shown 29 degrees once. These reading are on the door which should be the warmest place in the fridge.

Outside temps have been around 90 degrees and 70%-80% humidity.

It appears the latch fix has done more to help the fridge then anything else I have tried and I have tried a lot. I am fairly confident from doing previous test before the latch fix that even with the freezer installed we would be able to get good cooling below 95 degrees. Above 95 degrees who knows, I don't plan to camp when it's that hot if I can avoid it.
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:27 PM   #69
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Hi: KountryKamper... This sounds most promising. I'm looking for some foam to fill the latch rod space on our fridge. Maybe with that done I can turn it down a few bars!!! Alf
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:08 PM   #70
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I should open a website and sell the stuff. We have several 3'X4' sheets of it left over from a job we did. One sheet would probably fix 50-75 campers. Problem is it cost more to ship then it's worth.

Maybe Dometic will supply it as a fix someday already cut out.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:26 PM   #71
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I should open a website and sell the stuff. We have several 3'X4' sheets of it left over from a job we did. One sheet would probably fix 50-75 campers. Problem is it cost more to ship then it's worth.

Maybe Dometic will supply it as a fix someday already cut out.
If you have the material you could cut it to fit the smallest "if it fits it ships" USPS free box for $6. I'm sure people will pay you $10 plus shipping for a proven fridge aid. Heck, if you tell me what it is I'LL sell it thru my website!

I spent $70 on the Fridge Fan fix (plus shipping) and doubt it really works based on all the experience out there to date.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:16 PM   #72
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Its just 3'X4'X1/4 armaflex sheets. Heck if you want to ship it out I will mail you a couple sheets and you can cut 2" X 8" sections and ship them out to people. If you made a template of the center section (2" X 1.5" with 1/2" cuts in the corners) and cut out the cross piece you could sell them. The piece for the channel I cut was 5/8 X 3" and the fit perfect into the rod channels. PM me if interested and I will ship the material to you. I just don't have time to do a bunch of shipping.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:21 PM   #73
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The Fridge Fan fix is still viable as it replaces the "D" cell battery fan which seems to always stop and it eliminates frost on the inside which also helps cooling. Plus the blue light accents the stock blue light, I like mine and intend to use it.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:26 PM   #74
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The Fridge Fan fix is still viable as it replaces the "D" cell battery fan which seems to always stop
I have one of the first generation cube fans that run on two D cell batteries. I can run for an entire YEAR on two batteries and they're totally unaffected by temperature. It's those that have the cube fans with the On/Off switch that have problems.

Sometimes getting the FIRST build is better
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:27 PM   #75
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Will you guys pul-eeze stop the nonsense. It ain't brain surgery to block an air leak. Go to Home Depot, spend 4 bucks or whatever on plain-jane window foam strips, or use a half-dozen cotton balls from your medicine closet, or just cut up an old sock! Case closed.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:32 PM   #76
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Its just 3'X4'X1/4 armaflex sheets. Heck if you want to ship it out I will mail you a couple sheets and you can cut 2" X 8" sections and ship them out to people. If you made a template of the center section (2" X 1.5" with 1/2" cuts in the corners) and cut out the cross piece you could sell them. The piece for the channel I cut was 5/8 X 3" and the fit perfect into the rod channels. PM me if interested and I will ship the material to you. I just don't have time to do a bunch of shipping.
No need - Armaflex foam tape is sold at Home Depot in a 2 inch width by 20 ft or so for less than $10 (I've used it.) Folks could just pick up a roll and laminate it to the correct thickness.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:43 PM   #77
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Sorry Myron but I have to call you out on the old sock. We wouldn't our food smelling like old socks would we?? : )
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:47 PM   #78
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Will you guys pul-eeze stop the nonsense. It ain't brain surgery to block an air leak. Go to Home Depot, spend 4 bucks or whatever on plain-jane window foam strips, or use a half-dozen cotton balls from your medicine closet, or just cut up an old sock! Case closed.
Says the old sock.
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:06 PM   #79
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Well I got a surprise tonite, I went out and removed my panel, guess what, mine is flush with no cut out slot for the lock rod. Entirely smooth under my panel?? I'll post a picture tomorrow, but until then did anyone else find a missing lock rod slot? Did they perhaps change the door, mine is absolutely smooth from side to side, top to bottom. I do have the bottom hinge slot opening which I encased, but no rod access?? Any ideas?
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:58 AM   #80
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