6.7 Fridge Leaking Cold Air!!! - Page 10 - Escape Trailer Owners Community
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Old 09-03-2014, 12:49 PM   #181
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Just confirms that the issue is the cooling capacity of the fridge.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:28 PM   #182
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FYI - I'm always looking for alternatives too ... so if we use 'coolers' then we still need a solution for the frozen food moved out of the freezer in hot weather? Dry ice?

-------------------------
It sounds simple; dump a bag of crushed ice into the ice chest, put in the food and drinks and then if you are really serious, layer another bag of crushed ice on top. This works fine if you are going on a picnic, but simply tossing a couple bags of crushed ice into the ice chest is completely inadequate for even short weekend camping trips.
The key to an ice chest is, of course, the ice. But the key to ice is mass, since an object with greater mass will hold its temperature longer than a similar object with less mass. For this reason a big block of solid ice, instead of hundreds of small cubes of ice, will last much longer, even if the block of ice and the bag of crushed ice are the same weight.
Even with block ice, it takes a lot of it to keep an ice chest cool for longer than 48 hours. I use 1-gallon milk jugs for making my own block ice. It is not only cheaper than buying block ice, but the jugs hold the melting water next to the ice, which helps slow down the melting process. It takes four milk jugs to keep one of the “5
day” or “6 day” ice chests cool for three or four days, at 80ºF.
There are some other steps that you can take in order to extend the life of the ice, and this involves pre-cooling of both the ice chest and anything that you plan to put into it. Pre-cooling is brining the inside temperature of the ice chest down to 40ºF before putting your ice inside. This keeps a warm ice chest from rapidly melting your ice until the ice can cool the inside of the ice chest. I use several frozen milk jugs to do this, but not the ones that I will use for the camping trip.
Warm food and drinks will also accelerate the melting of your ice, so it is important to pre-cool everything that you plan to put inside the ice chest. If you are camping for more than 3 days, it is a good idea to freeze food and perishable drinks, like milk, that you do not plan to use until later in the trip.
That is my system, but I am fortunate enough to have enough extra freezer space for 6 milk jugs of frozen water.
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Old 09-03-2014, 01:44 PM   #183
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Has anyone pulled the fridge? If you have any photos of the fridge cabinet that would be great. I'm just brainstorming that if there is room on the outer cabinet, maybe some Styrofoam insulation board (the kind with foil backing on one side) could be attached to the cabinet in as many locations as possible. My thought process being that the main difference between the fridge ratings has to do with the amount of insulation.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:07 PM   #184
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We worked with Tammy a couple of weeks ago to finalize our build list. At that time, at least for the 21, the Texas fan was no longer an option -- it's standard.

Can't wait until mid-November so we can begin testing our fridge... :-)
I confirmed with Tammy this morning that the Texas Fan is now standard.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:38 PM   #185
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Has anyone pulled the fridge? If you have any photos of the fridge cabinet that would be great. I'm just brainstorming that if there is room on the outer cabinet, maybe some Styrofoam insulation board (the kind with foil backing on one side) could be attached to the cabinet in as many locations as possible. My thought process being that the main difference between the fridge ratings has to do with the amount of insulation.
I second that it would be great if someone had the time pull there fridge and photographed the back side . This is on my most do list for my trailer but finding the time is hard to do. For one thing I would like to see how ETI arrange their Texas fan option.
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Old 09-03-2014, 02:56 PM   #186
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Has anyone pulled the fridge? If you have any photos of the fridge cabinet that would be great. I'm just brainstorming that if there is room on the outer cabinet, maybe some Styrofoam insulation board (the kind with foil backing on one side) could be attached to the cabinet in as many locations as possible. My thought process being that the main difference between the fridge ratings has to do with the amount of insulation.
Here is a picture of the back that I mined off the internet...

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Old 09-03-2014, 03:14 PM   #187
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How can we get the Texas fan for our 2013 19 ft and info how to put it in . We live in hot California . Do not understand 2 other refig for last 24 years from Domectic worked great . This is very disappointing especially on a new trailer . The other 2 were used .
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Old 09-03-2014, 03:17 PM   #188
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Also does anyone have info on how to take apart door without damaging it to maybe add extra insulation .
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:03 PM   #189
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This is our 4.3 removed. I had room to add 2.5" of R-6 insulation to the sides and top.

Here is what you need to add a fan to the rear. It can be mounted at the bottom of the fridge inside the access door and is very easy to install. It comes with everything you need. If you add one at the bottom you can feel the air moving out the roof vent when its running. Be careful of the wiring in the wall if you attach it to the wall.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2618VP FridgeCool 12 Volt Exhaust Fan: Automotive
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:23 PM   #190
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This is our 4.3 removed. I had room to add 2.5" of R-6 insulation to the sides and top.

Here is what you need to add a fan to the rear. It can be mounted at the bottom of the fridge inside the access door and is very easy to install. It comes with everything you need. If you add one at the bottom you can feel the air moving out the roof vent when its running. Be careful of the wiring in the wall if you attach it to the wall.

Amazon.com: Valterra A10-2618VP FridgeCool 12 Volt Exhaust Fan: Automotive
Thanks for the photos. I was more referring to the fridge cabinet itself -- and not the enclosure it sits in. Much research has revealed that the main difference between tropical rated fridges and subnormal rated fridges (and the grades in between) is the amount of insulation in the fridge cabinet itself. I've seen some photos online of owners who have added rigid foam boards to the outside and some have added it to the inside.

If the fridge still fits in the enclosure with some extra foam boards attached to the sides top and back, it might cool better. Just throwing it out there.
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Old 09-03-2014, 04:54 PM   #191
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....If the fridge still fits in the enclosure with some extra foam boards attached to the sides top and back, it might cool better. Just throwing it out there.
Bryan, I would also like to add or replace the factory insulation in my refer. From what I've read, Polyisocyanurate board is about the best you can get for R rating at around 6.5 per inch of thickness. This is a common roofing insulator. It is also readily available at home improvement stores. For non-flat shaped areas like the top or sides then glass mat may be best...has anyone taken apart their door and taken a pic?
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:02 PM   #192
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Could the insulation also go in wall cavities ?
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:05 PM   #193
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Could the insulation also go in wall cavities ?
Yes, and it may be worth it to remove those thin wood strips near the back on each side and replace with solid Polyisocyanurate board. Maybe an 1" or more thickness will fit....UPDATE: I did a quick measurement and on my 19' I can get 2" in there on each side. This translates to an extra R-Rating of about 12.8 per side (assuming 3.2 per 1/2").
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:27 PM   #194
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Yes, and it may be worth it to remove those thin wood strips near the back on each side and replace with solid Polyisocyanurate board. Maybe an 1" or more thickness will fit....UPDATE: I did a quick measurement and on my 19' I can get 2" in there on each side. This translates to an extra R-Rating of about 12.8 per side (assuming 3.2 per 1/2").
Yeah, i would think adding it to the sides, top and even the back (perhaps smaller 'pieced-in' sections attached to each other with foil tape like used in AC work) would have positive results. I don't know what the bottom looks like, but maybe even adding it there if fit permits.

I think you're volunteering!

I found the insulation at Lowes too:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_101641-1722-...a&kpid=3851109
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:34 PM   #195
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Yeah, i would think adding it to the sides, top and even the back (perhaps smaller 'pieced-in' sections attached to each other with foil tape like used in AC work) would have positive results. I don't know what the bottom looks like, but maybe even adding it there if fit permits.

I think you're volunteering! ....
As soon a we get back from the Jalama beach trip next week I'm going in!!....
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:38 PM   #196
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...I'm also thinking of boxing-in the back of the refer over the coil section with sheet metal so that air flow across the coils is managed by this ducting, separated from the size or shape of the back enclosure. Additionally I would insulate the enclosure so it can't get directly heated by the sun.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:46 PM   #197
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Here is a picture of the back that I mined off the internet...

Thanks for posting the picture of the back of our refrigerator. Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
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Old 09-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #198
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Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
That makes sense, but if venting the unit out the side wall (instead of the roof, a flue extending to the very top of the appliance would not work well. One extending to the roof vent would need to be specifically suited to the ceiling height of the RV, and the refrigerator manufacturer would not want to make a version to accommodate every different RV height.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:17 PM   #199
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Thanks for the photos. I was more referring to the fridge cabinet itself -- and not the enclosure it sits in. Much research has revealed that the main difference between tropical rated fridges and subnormal rated fridges (and the grades in between) is the amount of insulation in the fridge cabinet itself. I've seen some photos online of owners who have added rigid foam boards to the outside and some have added it to the inside.

If the fridge still fits in the enclosure with some extra foam boards attached to the sides top and back, it might cool better. Just throwing it out there.
The fridge will not fit in the opening with anything attached to it. It's very tight and you have to remove the molding to get it out. The only place to add insulation is inside the opening past the framing studs.
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Old 09-03-2014, 06:22 PM   #200
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Thanks for posting the picture of the back of our refrigerator. Looking at this picture I have asked myself why wouldn't the manufacture not extend the vent pipe off the boiler up and past the condenser coils. As far as that goes bring the vent all the way up to the roof vent this would help remove the heat build up from the back of the fridge.
Been there done that too. Existing flue does exhaust on condenser some especially when a baffle is installed. Manufactured a new flue to get it above the coils. Noticed no difference but it had to help some to get it above the condenser. You can't go up much higher then the fridge and still be able to slide it in. You would have to remove the roof vent and do it from the top to go any longer.

I found that Dometic actually manufactures something similar to this but seems to only be sold in Australia.
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