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Old 11-20-2014, 04:01 PM   #101
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It's why I started this thread:

Fridge

The owner they "tested" the RMD8555 with is here in Texas, and he reported better performance than the single door model. Reace did advise me though when I was at ETI that it would still be an SN rated model -- since Dometic does not offer ANY T-rated fridges in North America that will fit through the door of an Escape. But, the main driver of how the fridge performs seems to be the installation method more so than the climate class, so I'm encouraged.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:09 PM   #102
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There goes the ol' microwave.
Performing better? What's the real world chances of that, dare I wonder?
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:15 PM   #103
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
There goes the ol' microwave.
Performing better? What's the real world chances of that, dare I wonder?
Myron, I believe the 'doors' Reace mentioned apply to the smaller fridges too. Could be wrong, but check with ETI.
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:23 PM   #104
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Anyone notice the 3.2 a/hr draw on 12v for this model, seems pretty small for this unit and a lot less than the current model??
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Old 11-20-2014, 04:24 PM   #105
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
There goes the ol' microwave.
Performing better? What's the real world chances of that, dare I wonder?
I have added a microwave shelf under the 6.7. Just mirror the hole above and it will stick out about the same as the refrigerator door. I'll post pictures when it's done. It is 'low' but Irma said 'looks good'
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:19 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post

Fridge
But, the main driver of how the fridge performs seems to be the installation method more so than the climate class, so I'm encouraged.
Can you expand on this statement a little? I was just talking with Reace a day or so ago, and it doesn't sound like installation plays a big part in the 6.7 performance since the cooling fins are actually fairly close to the outer wall, being so much higher than on the 4.3s. How does this new fridge differ in installation?
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Old 11-20-2014, 05:54 PM   #107
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Reply from Reace
"The latest I have heard is the tooling for the new door
][/QUOTE]


Not sure what this means? Dometic is preparing a better insulated door for the existing 6.7 and we'll all get a new door and live happily ever after in refrigerator nirvana?
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:06 PM   #108
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Does someone know if using a 6.7 cu. ft. refrigerator would use over 50% more propane than a 4.3 cu. ft. Under the same conditions? Or does it not work that way?
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:23 PM   #109
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Can you expand on this statement a little? I was just talking with Reace a day or so ago, and it doesn't sound like installation plays a big part in the 6.7 performance since the cooling fins are actually fairly close to the outer wall, being so much higher than on the 4.3s. How does this new fridge differ in installation?
Read this and come to your own conclusion? Personally I wouldn't be spending all this time on mine if "I" didn't think it will help. I wonder sometime if I'm not trying to 'hop up' a Geo Metro, the RML8555 is inherently wimpy. Time will tell.

http://www.caravanfridges.co.uk/pdf-...ion-manual.pdf
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Old 11-20-2014, 06:53 PM   #110
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I read it and similar instructions for other models. When we all first started looking into this, those instructions looked like the obvious requirement to get the fridges to work properly, but Reace's experience, after trying various baffle arrangements, seems to suggest that all the baffle work doesn't really do much to help. Maybe it's one of those a degree here, a degree there, and finally enough little improvements make an adequate installation. At this point, I'm not very motivated to go through all the baffle work with so little promise of significant improvement.
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