6.7 Frig Tinkering ideas? - Page 12 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-20-2014, 06:58 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Can you expand on this statement a little? I was just talking with Reace a day or so ago, and it doesn't sound like installation plays a big part in the 6.7 performance since the cooling fins are actually fairly close to the outer wall, being so much higher than on the 4.3s. How does this new fridge differ in installation?
I was speaking in general and not specifically to the problems with the RML8555 (which I think at this point, Dometic has admitted to Reace is not working properly). A well installed SN fridge can in some cases outperform a poorly installed T rated fridge - provided the fridge works as designed. Reace detailed some of the back and forth he's had with Dometic when I visited ETI. I came away with the conclusion that Dometic knew that particular model cooled inadequately -- thus the retooling of their line to produce an improved door, and the 2 door model for new builds.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:25 PM   #112
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Okay, I misunderstood. You're referring to the basic fridge construction as opposed to its installation in the Escape, correct? It sounded like you were implying that if ETI installed the RML8555 differently, it would work properly.....which I continue to doubt.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:31 PM   #113
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I'm baffled.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:38 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Anyone notice the 3.2 a/hr draw on 12v for this model, seems pretty small for this unit and a lot less than the current model??
We noticed that and discussed it in Robert's thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
That's not a current draw of 3.2 amps, it is
Quote:
Energy consumption 12V @amb temp 25°C (Ah/24h) 3.2
... which means 3.2 amp-hour consumption over a 24-hour period, or 0.13 amps (130 mA) average... just enough to run the electronics.

The other 12-volt spec is
Quote:
Max input 12V (W) 170
... so at peak it can use 170 watts or over 14 amps. From this spec, the brochure available from the same web page, and the manual, this appears to be a three-way unit (capable of cooling on your choice of AC, DC, and propane power); the 3.2Ah/day number would be just for the controls, not cooling on DC power. 170 watts for the DC heating element is reasonable for this size of refrigerator; the AC heating element for this model is 190 watts. The 22 grams/hour propane burn rate corresponds to about 280 watts, but the propane heater won't be perfectly efficient or transfer the heat to the cooling unit as effectively as the electric heaters, so again the 170 watts (14 amps) seems reasonable.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:43 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
I wonder sometime if I'm not trying to 'hop up' a Geo Metro, the RML8555 is inherently wimpy.
If you ever saw the performance of a Swift GTi or the Geo-badged version (with the 4-cylinder), you might not be so discouraged by this comparison.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:44 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Okay, I misunderstood. You're referring to the basic fridge construction as opposed to its installation in the Escape, correct? It sounded like you were implying that if ETI installed the RML8555 differently, it would work properly.....which I continue to doubt.
Correct. ETI's installation is according to Dometic standards.
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Old 11-20-2014, 07:50 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by Floating Cloud View Post
Does someone know if using a 6.7 cu. ft. refrigerator would use over 50% more propane than a 4.3 cu. ft. Under the same conditions? Or does it not work that way?
More interior volume means more surface area, which means more heat coming in, which means more work for the cooling unit, which means more propane burned... so it basically does work this way. It isn't quite proportional to volume, though.

In the the best versions of Dometic spec sheets, the propane consumption is given (in grams per hour or grams per day), so this could be looked up... if you can find the right two models to compare.
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Old 11-20-2014, 08:56 PM   #118
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Thumbs up

Thanks Brian, for clarifying my question and answering it, sometimes you do deserve a pat on the back......
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:20 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I was speaking in general and not specifically to the problems with the RML8555 (which I think at this point, Dometic has admitted to Reace is not working properly). .
Hard to accept the RML8555 'is not working properly' and we might get a new door? Obviously I hope the installation could provide significant improvement or I wouldn't spend all this time trying to rebuild it.

If the refrig 'is not working properly' and the installation won't help enough .. this is a huge disappointment to us.

The old door will float, I can name it the Dometic ... and sink it
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Old 11-20-2014, 09:33 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
It's why I started this thread:

Fridge

The owner they "tested" the RMD8555 with is here in Texas, and he reported better performance than the single door model. .
The new fridge performance was obviously superior enough for Reace to opt for the 2 door fridge. Any sort of anecdotes about how much better the 2 door fridge performed in hot weather?
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