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Old 04-15-2015, 06:59 AM   #201
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Klem,
Great summary and observation. I have always tried to keep mine on 3 and the range for freezer has been -1 to 8 degrees (f) and the refer from 36-42 (F). When filling the refer and the temp rises. I turn it up to 4 for a couple of hours and then reset back to 3, sometimes even #2. There is one member here who keeps their freezer out all the time and I believe has had good results. Alf discovered a halfway measure, you can pull the freezer partially out, still close the door and it should let some of the colder air to escape downward.
Maybe some more observations from others with this maneuver. I always felt keeping it on #5 was ineffective.
This good news may persuade those with the single door to consider before switching to the dual door set up.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:02 AM   #202
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Klem,
You had your unit recently serviced? What did they do exactly?
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:39 AM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
...Has anyone used their 6.7 single door like this:
Leave the thermistor, and everything else, mounted in the factory location.
Use temp setting at 3 bars only. (39-41F)
If the refrigerator isn't cool enough pull the freezer compartment out.

In a nutshell, regardless of power source keep it running at 3 bars and remove the freezer compartment above 80 F...
I have posted a couple times in the past that our 6.7 cu ft fridge has performed well for us in our 2013 Escape 19', even during a very hot (90-110°F) 2014 mid-July trip through SW USA (WY,UT, AZ, NM, CO). On that trip, the fridge spent more than about 2/3 of the time on propane at camp sites (the remainder on 120V AC), and was also on propane during driving. The resistor and all of the fridge settings were unchanged from the stock factory locations/settings. I don't recall ever changing the fridge temperature setting during the trip. It was probably at 3 for the entire trip. We did not take out the freezer. We enjoyed chilled drinks, frozen icecream, freezies, etc the entire trip.
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:42 AM   #204
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Maybe that is the secret, "set and forget about it" on #3.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:34 AM   #205
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Klem would you say to leave thermistor in it' s original place , remove freezer if over 80 , and keep temp at 3 also for the 4.3 ? Pat
Yes, and buy a small separate freezer if you want ice cubes on a hot day

In my testing simply pulling the freezer compartment when the frig gets wimpy (as designed) gives the frig significant extra cooling.

I am assuming your 3 setting is close to 40 f.

I believe yOu are setting it at the sweet spot for performance above the S/N climate class it's rated for with the freezer installed.
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Old 04-15-2015, 10:41 AM   #206
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Klem,
You had your unit recently serviced? What did they do exactly?
I will post pictures and more explanation soon. In a nutshell it was rebuilt but that is limited due to the smaller tubing of the series 8 frigs.

And I have a new fan, boiler/fan monitoring and additional airflow so I can see if I can extend the range with the freezer in place.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:22 AM   #207
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Moving the thermistor - in my testing it changes the 'coupling' to the cooling unit but the temperature set point remains the same.

Changing the coupling results in the cooling unit running longer or shorter periods but in the end the temperature is no different. In the present location it runs shorter duration more times and is more accurate. Decoupling from the fins (further away') results in longer on cycles and wider temperature swings from the bar setting.

Fiddling with the thermistor on a microprocessor controlled frig like the series 8 is like moving your thermostat somewhere else in your house to change the temperature .. It only reflects the place it's at, it doesn't improve the performance of you heating/cooling.

It does change where the temp is sensed. From my tests the location is fine. The temp steps down predictably and cycles often to maintain the set temp when the cooling unit is in it's operating range.

To me ... The series 8 was designed to eliminate fires first ... And work as a frig second.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:37 AM   #208
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Moving the thermistor - in my testing it changes the 'coupling' to the cooling unit but the temperature set point remains the same.

Changing the coupling results in the cooling unit running longer or shorter periods but in the end the temperature is no different. In the present location it runs shorter duration more times and is more accurate. Decoupling from the fins (further away') results in longer on cycles and wider temperature swings from the bar setting.

Fiddling with the thermistor on a microprocessor controlled frig like the series 8 is like moving your thermostat somewhere else in your house to change the temperature .. It only reflects the place it's at, it doesn't improve the performance of you heating/cooling.

It does change where the temp is sensed. From my tests the location is fine. The temp steps down predictably and cycles often to maintain the set temp when the cooling unit is in it's operating range.

To me ... The series 8 was designed to eliminate fires first ... And work as a frig second.
Thankyou Klem for explanation . We moved the thermistor on Reace 's suggestion . We have found it doesn't help at all . Another ? What about more insulation on frig itself and in the cabinet . From my memories older units were very insulated . And I found in Dometic papers to make sure there was insulation on frig itself and cabinets . I am not sure if this is concerning these series 8 's too .Any help is appreciated . Not afraid to remove refrigerator and insulate if it will help also . We will put thermistor back in it's spot .Freezer is the hard one . Guess if push comes to shove will remove in our California hot temps .
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:14 PM   #209
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Insulation - I added some on the top and sides but after looking it over I think it could only help 'slightly'. I say that because when you open the door there is so much cold air dumped out of the box .. Which is replaced with cabin air.

I expect the flue extension and fan modifications to help considerably. I will post an explanation and photo soon.
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Old 04-15-2015, 07:48 PM   #210
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.....I say that because when you open the door there is so much cold air dumped out of the box .. Which is replaced with cabin air.....
You have a valid point. Years and years ago, on FiberglassRV, a member.. Pete Dumbleton made this exact point. He created a vinyl pass-through, like you see in grocery stores.. vinyl that hangs down with slits. He could open the door to his frig and grab something through the slit, without causing the cold air to "dump." Something to consider for those folks camping in hot, hot weather.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:46 PM   #211
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Fan and flue extension.
I used adhesive to attach the plywood to the frig and mount the fan(s). I chose this fan from ARPrv | RV Refrigerator | RV Fridge Control | Install by Cooling Unit | RV Fire Paul and the web site are a great resource.

I also installed the Controller and use it for fan control, monitoring and testing.

I understand that the critical place for the air movement (wind chill) is the condenser. The boiler runs at 160+F and the condenser must have a temperature differential sufficient for condensation of the mix.
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2015 4 frig before reinstall.jpg   2015 4 frig before install close flue vent.jpg  
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:55 PM   #212
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Klem,

Did you get the flue extension direct from Dometic, or from another source? I am going to replace our fridge with the rmd8555, but I still think a flue extension would be a good idea
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:04 AM   #213
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That type of fan in that location looks like it'll do a much better job of moving air past the condenser than the typical installation.

I toyed with a straight insulated extension flue from the boiler. The factory one is designed to act as a natural draft flue. I wasn't sure if a straight extension would work without providing a fresh air intake at the bottom. But now I have you test it out for me.

I'll be monitoring temperatures in my boiler flue duct and the ones over the condenser and see how effective the boiler duct is at containing the flame heat.

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Old 04-16-2015, 12:13 AM   #214
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Klem,

Did you get the flue extension direct from Dometic, or from another source? I am going to replace our fridge with the rmd8555, but I still think a flue extension would be a good idea
It's all parts from my shop. 1" copper pipe, a split piece for a spacer at the bottom (who cares if it leaks a little), then used some Aviation FormAGasket to marry the T into the pipe. Wrapped it with some exhaust header tape with 14ga ground wire hold it up. The top support is a piece of 1/2" steel strap and gave me room to adjust it in/out after looking down the vent slot.

The exhaust temp is around 125F so it just needs to get above the condenser section. I wanted it to slide in/out with the frig and not have any connections to make. It nests into an aluminum 4" dryer 90 vent twisted to match the vent walls.
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:21 AM   #215
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That type of fan in that location looks like it'll do a much better job of moving air past the condenser than the typical installation.

Ron
Paul at ARPrv picked the fan for its cfm and low current draw, also quiet running. At that location you can feel it sweep smoothly through the fins. I'm hoping that's the sweet spot through the condenser. I have room to slide it over and mount a second in the future.

His controller monitors condenser temp and cycles the fan as needed.
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Old 04-16-2015, 12:22 AM   #216
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Just noticed the double condenser. Whoa, with an air current over those you should be able to get rid of a lot more waste heat.

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Old 04-16-2015, 12:29 AM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Insulation - I added some on the top and sides but after looking it over I think it could only help 'slightly'. I say that because when you open the door there is so much cold air dumped out of the box .. Which is replaced with cabin air.

I expect the flue extension and fan modifications to help considerably. I will post an explanation and photo soon.
While we are glad for 6.7 refrig 's getting some resolution . All of us with our 4.3 's sure feel left out because we only paid 200. Less in cash for our frig . Now we hear the new ones work better . How many of us would of paid the 200. To not have these problems . I am capable of doing some of these mods but a lot are not . Where does that leave them ? Why should we have to repair a new frig ? Just putting this out there . To say I am upset . I sure am . I know we appreciate all you trail blazers out there and please keep the fixes coming . Klem put the thermistor back in it's place and may at a later date attempt some of these other idea's . Wished some of you worked at Dometic .
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:01 PM   #218
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The End of frig tinkering for me .. Thank you ETI

Thanks to Reace and the ETI crew for swapping out my frig this week I'll close out the 'single door' era with an entertaining video. (we didn't like the single door? ... )

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Old 07-23-2015, 01:46 PM   #219
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I thought I heard him say its tested to perform at 43F in the fridge and 15F in the freezer at 110F in the desert?

Um, I'm gonna say that's a bit of wishful thinking.
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