6.7 Frig Tinkering ideas? - Page 2 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 09-06-2014, 12:12 AM   #11
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Well, let's do a survey. How many people find the screws are one turn loose and how many find that they are tight? We might find that they are all loose, which may indicate a reason for being one turn loose.
In the meantime, I'm going to try to figure out why my 5 cu. ft. fridge, which has been turned on elec. for two days is suddenly as warm as the inside of the trailer ( even though the food inside feels cold ). It could be that my wife didn't properly close it while loading it, or it could be that the indoor/outdoor thermometer I'm using has gone goofy.
I switched it over to propane, just to confuse matters even further. Within 20 minutes the thermometer indicates 35 degrees.
I'll just have to finish this six-pack and check again later.
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Old 09-06-2014, 07:23 AM   #12
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I removed our fins to get access to the hole for the thermistor wire (6.7). Our screws were all loose as well. With all the sticky thermally conducting grease between the tubes and backside of the fin assembly, I don't know how much difference it would make to tighten them. I'm beginning to think they were intentionally installed that way OR the grease squeezed out over time resulting in the screws effectively loosening. There are probably one or two people at the Dometic factory who would really know the answer. So I snuggedbour up but wouldn't call them tight.
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:10 AM   #13
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6.7 tinkering

Next morning at 6 a.m. went out to wash the trailer, 74* oat and 78* inside. Freezer 0*, fridge is 32*. I opened the door a couple of times to check mechanical gauge against the remote and the second time at 7:30, still 0 and 32 with out side temp up to 78*
I checked the screws and they varied, mostly tight with one a single turn and a couple a half turn to snug them up.
Checking for leaks at the door a week or so ago, fridge was 30+, trailer 78* and using a IR temp unit there was a consistent 72* at the door seal.
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:08 PM   #14
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Hi Parker,
As for tightening I found this:

New Page 1

You must apply thermal mastic to the coils of the cooling unit that contact the aluminum fins of the refrigerator. After the mastic has been applied, install the aluminum fins to the cooling unit. Be sure to well tighten the screws that mount the fins. There are brackets for the screws below the surface of the foam. You should see the screws slightly pull the area around them inward. Getting the fins on tight with mastic is critical. Failure to do so will cause cooling problems in the lower box. You should also put mastic on the freezer coils, before installing the freezer plate later. The next step is to apply about a half inch bead of sealer "Silicone or Latex Caulk" around the edge of the foam block and place the cooling unit into the refrigerator.
------------

My guess is they are loose from the compound being squeezed after install and the thermal movement.

On telecommunications equipment we torqued the bolts, I never saw the sheet metal type screws on the series 8 units so I wouldn't want to guess. I tightened them 'firmly' ...
Mel
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Old 09-06-2014, 01:20 PM   #15
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Interesting perspectives!

The Golden Path To Refrigerator Happiness

Vanagon

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Old 09-06-2014, 02:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Hi Parker,
As for tightening I found this:

New Page 1


Mel
Thanks, Mel. Good read!
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:54 PM   #17
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AES - tricking it to only use propane -

I disconnected the red 12vdc (wire nut big and small wire together that was on the heater + lug) from the heater element AND unplugged the AC power cord.

That forces AES to go directly to propane. I've read the AES can get flakey so this insures I am running 100% propane for testing.

Good way to troubleshoot AES too, by forcing in a mode.
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
AES - tricking it to only use propane -

I disconnected the red 12vdc (wire nut big and small wire together that was on the heater + lug) from the heater element AND unplugged the AC power cord.

That forces AES to go directly to propane. I've read the AES can get flakey so this insures I am running 100% propane for testing.

Good way to troubleshoot AES too, by forcing in a mode.
Is there an advantage to doing it this way as opposed to setting the mode to "gas"?
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:59 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
In the meantime, I'm going to try to figure out why my 5 cu. ft. fridge, which has been turned on elec. for two days is suddenly as warm as the inside of the trailer ( even though the food inside feels cold ). It could be that my wife didn't properly close it while loading it, or it could be that the indoor/outdoor thermometer I'm using has gone goofy.
I switched it over to propane, just to confuse matters even further. Within 20 minutes the thermometer indicates 35 degrees.
I'll just have to finish this six-pack and check again later.
Glen, I have found on the 5 cu ft fridge that the switch that controls the mode (electric, gas or off) is finicky. In our case we thought the fridge was off but was still operating in the 110V mode. These fridges don't have an indicator light to tell you if the fridge is in fact on.
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:10 PM   #20
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Glen, no matter what you find out, do what any self respecting man would do...blame your wife.
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