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Old 04-15-2015, 07:59 AM   #201
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Klem,
Great summary and observation. I have always tried to keep mine on 3 and the range for freezer has been -1 to 8 degrees (f) and the refer from 36-42 (F). When filling the refer and the temp rises. I turn it up to 4 for a couple of hours and then reset back to 3, sometimes even #2. There is one member here who keeps their freezer out all the time and I believe has had good results. Alf discovered a halfway measure, you can pull the freezer partially out, still close the door and it should let some of the colder air to escape downward.
Maybe some more observations from others with this maneuver. I always felt keeping it on #5 was ineffective.
This good news may persuade those with the single door to consider before switching to the dual door set up.
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:02 AM   #202
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Klem,
You had your unit recently serviced? What did they do exactly?
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:39 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
...Has anyone used their 6.7 single door like this:
Leave the thermistor, and everything else, mounted in the factory location.
Use temp setting at 3 bars only. (39-41F)
If the refrigerator isn't cool enough pull the freezer compartment out.

In a nutshell, regardless of power source keep it running at 3 bars and remove the freezer compartment above 80 F...
I have posted a couple times in the past that our 6.7 cu ft fridge has performed well for us in our 2013 Escape 19', even during a very hot (90-110°F) 2014 mid-July trip through SW USA (WY,UT, AZ, NM, CO). On that trip, the fridge spent more than about 2/3 of the time on propane at camp sites (the remainder on 120V AC), and was also on propane during driving. The resistor and all of the fridge settings were unchanged from the stock factory locations/settings. I don't recall ever changing the fridge temperature setting during the trip. It was probably at 3 for the entire trip. We did not take out the freezer. We enjoyed chilled drinks, frozen icecream, freezies, etc the entire trip.
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Old 04-15-2015, 09:42 AM   #204
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Maybe that is the secret, "set and forget about it" on #3.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:34 AM   #205
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Klem would you say to leave thermistor in it' s original place , remove freezer if over 80 , and keep temp at 3 also for the 4.3 ? Pat
Yes, and buy a small separate freezer if you want ice cubes on a hot day

In my testing simply pulling the freezer compartment when the frig gets wimpy (as designed) gives the frig significant extra cooling.

I am assuming your 3 setting is close to 40 f.

I believe yOu are setting it at the sweet spot for performance above the S/N climate class it's rated for with the freezer installed.
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Old 04-15-2015, 11:41 AM   #206
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Klem,
You had your unit recently serviced? What did they do exactly?
I will post pictures and more explanation soon. In a nutshell it was rebuilt but that is limited due to the smaller tubing of the series 8 frigs.

And I have a new fan, boiler/fan monitoring and additional airflow so I can see if I can extend the range with the freezer in place.
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:22 PM   #207
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Moving the thermistor - in my testing it changes the 'coupling' to the cooling unit but the temperature set point remains the same.

Changing the coupling results in the cooling unit running longer or shorter periods but in the end the temperature is no different. In the present location it runs shorter duration more times and is more accurate. Decoupling from the fins (further away') results in longer on cycles and wider temperature swings from the bar setting.

Fiddling with the thermistor on a microprocessor controlled frig like the series 8 is like moving your thermostat somewhere else in your house to change the temperature .. It only reflects the place it's at, it doesn't improve the performance of you heating/cooling.

It does change where the temp is sensed. From my tests the location is fine. The temp steps down predictably and cycles often to maintain the set temp when the cooling unit is in it's operating range.

To me ... The series 8 was designed to eliminate fires first ... And work as a frig second.
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Old 04-15-2015, 12:37 PM   #208
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Originally Posted by Klem View Post
Moving the thermistor - in my testing it changes the 'coupling' to the cooling unit but the temperature set point remains the same.

Changing the coupling results in the cooling unit running longer or shorter periods but in the end the temperature is no different. In the present location it runs shorter duration more times and is more accurate. Decoupling from the fins (further away') results in longer on cycles and wider temperature swings from the bar setting.

Fiddling with the thermistor on a microprocessor controlled frig like the series 8 is like moving your thermostat somewhere else in your house to change the temperature .. It only reflects the place it's at, it doesn't improve the performance of you heating/cooling.

It does change where the temp is sensed. From my tests the location is fine. The temp steps down predictably and cycles often to maintain the set temp when the cooling unit is in it's operating range.

To me ... The series 8 was designed to eliminate fires first ... And work as a frig second.
Thankyou Klem for explanation . We moved the thermistor on Reace 's suggestion . We have found it doesn't help at all . Another ? What about more insulation on frig itself and in the cabinet . From my memories older units were very insulated . And I found in Dometic papers to make sure there was insulation on frig itself and cabinets . I am not sure if this is concerning these series 8 's too .Any help is appreciated . Not afraid to remove refrigerator and insulate if it will help also . We will put thermistor back in it's spot .Freezer is the hard one . Guess if push comes to shove will remove in our California hot temps .
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Old 04-15-2015, 06:14 PM   #209
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Insulation - I added some on the top and sides but after looking it over I think it could only help 'slightly'. I say that because when you open the door there is so much cold air dumped out of the box .. Which is replaced with cabin air.

I expect the flue extension and fan modifications to help considerably. I will post an explanation and photo soon.
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Old 04-15-2015, 08:48 PM   #210
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.....I say that because when you open the door there is so much cold air dumped out of the box .. Which is replaced with cabin air.....
You have a valid point. Years and years ago, on FiberglassRV, a member.. Pete Dumbleton made this exact point. He created a vinyl pass-through, like you see in grocery stores.. vinyl that hangs down with slits. He could open the door to his frig and grab something through the slit, without causing the cold air to "dump." Something to consider for those folks camping in hot, hot weather.
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