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Old 11-18-2014, 02:24 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
The stuff Myron calls "junk too good to throw out" and I call "resource materials"

Getting rid of 126 degree waste heat has to be a benefit. Great work and good solution for hooking up the flue.

Ron
Thank you, There was a person who extended his in an early thread that inspired me too. Thinking HotFishTacos but maybe a nice fellow from Tennessee?

It takes a village ...
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:30 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Mel,
I'm wondering if the bottom locale of the intake will not have the same effect as the open MaxxFan on the roof has, you may have a reverse pressure situation and the draw may be affected. Perhaps if you turned the vent cover forward to scoop air into the intake while moving?
Then again the faster you go the more air, do you want that to happen? Or is it already facing forward, hard to tell from the pictures?
The simple answer I believe is that I have sealed the 'chimney' top to bottom with sealing tape, silicon, sticky foam, etc. so any positive or negative pressure should not get into the trailer living area.


I just realized the last paragraph is saying I should have blocked off the upper area (seen in my pictures with the plastic conduit for supports). It should be down at refrig top.

I tried to meet or exceed this:

Proper installation requires one fresh air intake and one upper
exhaust vent. The ventilation kits shown in this instruction
manual have been certified for use with the refrigerator
models listed in the Table. For approved vents and refrigerator
vent options, see Pages 12 -16. The ventilation kits must be
installed and used without modification. An opening toward
the outside at floor level in the refrigerator compartment must
be provided for ventilation of heavier-than-air fuel gases. The
lower vent of the recommended kits is provided with proper
size openings. The flow of combustion and ventilation air
must not be obstructed.
The lower side vent is fitted with a panel which provides an
adequate access opening for ready serviceability of the
burner and control manifold of the refrigerator. This should be
centered on the back of the refrigerator.
When installing the refrigerator, the installer must block the
space between the storage cabinet and the top of the
refrigerator, otherwise heat will become trapped in this
space, making the top of the refrigerator hot, thus reducing
the efficiency of the unit.
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Old 11-18-2014, 02:40 PM   #63
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Any concern with the air that enters through your new bottom vent getting sucked out the side vent when the trailer is underway ?
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Old 11-18-2014, 04:55 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by NJ Joe View Post
Any concern with the air that enters through your new bottom vent getting sucked out the side vent when the trailer is underway ?

Good question. I won't really know until we take a long trip south in February. Hopefully I have built in the ability to make changes to optimize this air system.

I have thought a lot about the aerodynamics of the top and bottom vent. Some people complain of poor operation on the road and I wondered if there may be some backflow in the stock system.

We have hauled our trailer maybe 900 miles so far and always with the propane turned on with a digital thermometer inside that reads outside. Whenever we stop I have been looking at the temperature obsessively and I don't see any significant changes. I definitely see changes in ambient temperature will change frig temp and increase or decrease the 'power' (1-5 bars) to compensate.

That being said, I built the air box right inside the lower vent so I could fool around with the fan mount angle and design. The 'texas fan' was mounted up in the vent system at a location you would have to cut into the upper vent screen, or pull the refrigerator, to service.

The air box is simply a wooden box that I can slip in a piece of wood, or metal straps, to mount fan(s), create a baffle, or whatever. I was happy to find a protected area of 'disturbed air' for the lower pickup. IF air is sucked out the side vent but it doesn't affect the refrigerator temperature I don't care.

I have sealed all joints with tape, silicon, etc. to insure the air system is 'closed' from the living area. I would hope the Dometic top vent is designed to 'draw' air up the chimney and my additional lower vent should not increase the lower supply to greater then the upper outflow.

If the 3 air vents work unpredictably for any reason I can always add an aluminum sheet deflector to break the draw, but my guess is this will work better then what I had.

Mel
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:12 PM   #65
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How warm does it get where you are headed?
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Old 11-18-2014, 05:53 PM   #66
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Yes, I wonder if you will get any negative air pressure or venturi effect with the air blowing across the bottom under floor vent opening while under tow and sucking air out vs into the unit. In other words a poor chimney draft.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:12 PM   #67
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I believe that any movement of air displacing heat from bottom to top and vice versa would be an improvement on the OE poorly designed and improperly installed refrigeration system.
Mel, I admire your initiative !
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:16 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klem View Post
I just realized the last paragraph is saying I should have blocked off the upper area (seen in my pictures with the plastic conduit for supports). It should be down at refrig top.
Yeah, as in this drawing -- where they've added insulation wool to the top of the fridge:
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:03 PM   #69
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How warm does it get where you are headed?
We'll be spending some time in the south southwest, bouncing along the border (US-Mexico). Hopefully 'hot'
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:45 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Yes, I wonder if you will get any negative air pressure or venturi effect with the air blowing across the bottom under floor vent opening while under tow and sucking air out vs into the unit. In other words a poor chimney draft.
See what you think of this 'logic'...

The air under the trailer should be turbulent (like an airplane with flaps down) and the top should be faster (like the smoother top of a wing). And the top vent should be designed by Dometic to draw air. The side is quite smooth too but the vent is smaller then the top. At this time I can only assume the air is moving up ... but with the weird performance reports I'm not sure.

Add some heated air off the coils on the back of the frig and it wants to rise ...

I almost sized the lower vent 6" with less obstructions but chose 4" with screen and cover based on my intuition.

Combined with the centrally located airbox I can balance the air flow if needed.

I've spent a bit of time around aircraft but honestly it's a WAG. (wild ass guess) Ideally I should have a fully compliant installation with the larger LS300 side vent. I'm sure it would work better then what I have. But I can't wait any longer for the tooth fairy to fix my refrigerator, we're heading south and Irma loves her fresh fruits and vegetables chill'n in the frig.

Thanks for your thought provoking questions, I'll be pulling the frig one more time to implement a few improvements you all have suggested.

Mel
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