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06-12-2019, 09:36 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Port Hardy, British Columbia
Trailer: 2019 5 TA
Posts: 121
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A few questions to 5TA owners
First what do you use for landing gear pads?
Second x-chalks or wedge blocks.
Thanks
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06-12-2019, 10:20 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Trailer: 2017 5.0 TA Sold
Posts: 73
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We use what I call “lego blocks” for the landing gear. Works well for us. We alter the number of Lego’s depending on how much we have to bring the front of the trailer down to be level.
We use the X-chalks and, when necessary, Anderson levellers. Easy peasey to set up.
__________________
Candace and Garry
Sometimes not having any idea where we're going works out better than we could possibly have imagined. Ann Patchett
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06-12-2019, 11:39 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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For landing gear pads we have sand pads attached to the stabilizers, but often use either some LEGO blocks or some homemade blocks that we also carry. If you cut an 8” section off a 4x6 you can then use this as either a 4”, 6”, or 8” block. Make four for a complete set.
Regarding X-Chocks, they are *not* actual keep-your-trailer-from-rolling-down-the-hill chocks. The manufacturer even says so on all their literature. Some people love them for stabilizing their trailer, but IMHO I wouldn’t trust them as an actual safety device. If rolling away is a possibility go ahead and use them...but use some real chocks too.
__________________
💩-p+☕️+n
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06-13-2019, 12:50 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,122
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I have a bunch of lego blocks of a couple different kinds. the orange 'hex' ones like in the above picture are the best. I also have several cap plates for those that provide a smooth surface for the nose jack foot, and for the BAL stabilizer legs. I like to put a lego stack under the nose jack so I don't have to crank it for ever and ever to reach the ground. I have found the BAL stabilizers seem stiffer and steadier when they are more extended and vertical than when they are relatively shallow angle. I've started going around the BAL's twice, drop both rears snug, drop both fronts snug, tweak the nose jack a bit so the weight is evenly distributed, then go over the rear BAL's and the frotns one more time, so they all have approximately equal tension... when I do this, the whole trailer seems better stabilized. my wife and I are both plus sized folks...
ah, here's the caps, https://trilynx.com/products/lynx-cap-4-pack
and the trilinx legoblocks
https://trilynx.com/products/lynx-leveler-10-pack
now, I normally use the red anderson level wedges under one set of side wheels to get my side-to-side level, so I'm only using these trilynx under the jack and stabilizers.
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06-13-2019, 06:12 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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I have a set of wood blocks that I normally use, just a pair of 10"x10"x2" blocks screwed together, one block for each leg. If needed I break out the set of Lego's. In all these trips I've needed the Lego's twice.
I normally use a pair of rubber chocks but carry a single X-chock and use it if I'm parked on much of a slope. I don't notice any trailer bounce or wobble with the stabilizers down so don't use the X for that purpose.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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06-13-2019, 07:20 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 465
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I use Andersen Jack Blocks under the landing gear so I don’t have to extend them as far as without. I have x-chocks but those are strictly for stabilizing, not for chocking. I rely on heavy rubber chocks to keep the trailer in place. They also prevent any landing gear jump or slide when lifting off the hitch.
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06-13-2019, 09:15 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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I use short blocks of treated 6x6 for the front jacks, plastic pads under the stabilizers, X-Chocks between the wheels (and have for 8 years) and either thin plastic blocks or Anderson Levelers under the low side tires. Works great for us.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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06-13-2019, 10:07 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Santa Rosa County, Florida
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 Tow: 2024 Toyota Tundra
Posts: 3,097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sclifrickson
Regarding X-Chocks, they are *not* actual keep-your-trailer-from-rolling-down-the-hill chocks. The manufacturer even says so on all their literature. Some people love them for stabilizing their trailer, but IMHO I wouldn’t trust them as an actual safety device. If rolling away is a possibility go ahead and use them...but use some real chocks too.
Attachment 39791
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Yes. Under any stress the X-Chocks will pop out from between the wheels. I've had it happen twice. The first time I had forgotten the thing was still installed and pulled away; the X-Chock popped out and I didn't even notice. The second time I was parked on a slight hill and it popped out a few minutes after I had unhitched. The trailer rolled several feet forward and nearly hit my truck. The X-Chocks are for stabilization when parked, not to keep the trailer from rolling. Use real wheel chocks for that.
__________________
Mike Lewis
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie-- propane
Photos and travelogues here: mikelewisimages.com
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06-13-2019, 01:23 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Emerson, Manitoba
Trailer: 2016 Escape 5.0TA, 2022 F150 2.7EB
Posts: 1,848
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Greg and Kathy asked about blocks for under the landing gear but discussion somehow ended up on X-chocks for holding trailer. X-chocks vs. wedges was their second question as for stabilizing trailer once dropped I believe. For stabilizing we use X-chocks as well as the rear jacks on sand pads.
I would not use X-chocks for ensuring trailer didn't roll but with a 5.0TA there's much less chance of that happening anyway since there's so much weight on the landing gear. However I usually have rubber chocks under wheels when I unhook. I once unhooked in my driveway and watched our old 5.0 slide back about six inches even with landing gear down.
With the 5.0 Alf gave me the blocks he used under the landing gear. It saves having to drop them as low and it looks more secure. I built blocks for the 5.0TA. Each is made with four by fours, two attached together on the bottom with one centred on the top. I put handles on them to make it easier to pick up in the truck bed or from under the landing gear.
__________________
Adrian (and Beth)
We are all travellers in the wilderness of this world, and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend.
Robert Louis Stevenson
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06-13-2019, 06:51 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Naugatuck, Connecticut
Trailer: 2017 50 TA, 2016 F150, 2.7 Ecoboost
Posts: 1,056
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I carry a milk crate with cut sections of 2x6 for both the landing gear and stabilizers. Usually stack 3 or 4 high on the landing gear, seems more stable when you don’t extend them real far. For leveling side to side I use Anderson Levelers.
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06-13-2019, 07:05 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,122
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all that wood gets heavy. I like the TriLynx lego blocks because they are so light
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06-14-2019, 08:13 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Naugatuck, Connecticut
Trailer: 2017 50 TA, 2016 F150, 2.7 Ecoboost
Posts: 1,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
all that wood gets heavy. I like the TriLynx lego blocks because they are so light
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Probably right, you might have to move up to a F350....😂
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06-14-2019, 12:12 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Emerson, Manitoba
Trailer: 2016 Escape 5.0TA, 2022 F150 2.7EB
Posts: 1,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
all that wood gets heavy. I like the TriLynx lego blocks because they are so light
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Maybe I'll go for an F-250 next time. While getting oil changed at the dealer today I looked at a few trucks, the F-250s are no more than the F-150s, and full tow package with brake controller is included in all.
I wondered why John you said this about light blocks but then realized it's because of all the heavy stuff you carry
__________________
Adrian (and Beth)
We are all travellers in the wilderness of this world, and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend.
Robert Louis Stevenson
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06-14-2019, 12:59 PM
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#14
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,122
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its more that I carry my lego blocks in my storage bin, which has a max weight, plus my hands and wrists get somewhat arthritic at times, and while I can still lift heavy stuff, its often hard to manipulate into position. the stacked lego blocks are also not going to slide apart
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06-14-2019, 01:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,532
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The two 6x6 blocks I use under our jacks are way more solid than the plastic blocks of which I broke a few because they couldn't handle the weight. Real easy to grab outta the truck box for placement too.
For a couple decades I used wooden 6-10" long planks for under wheels and stabilizers and finally went to the Lynx blocks for ease of storage and lighter weight. and am glad I did.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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06-14-2019, 01:40 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Olympia wa, Washington
Trailer: 5.0TA 2017
Posts: 2,255
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i use wood blocks under the landing gear and wedges behind front / back of tires I use plastic leveling blocks to level if needed. i have lots of other stuff Anderson leveler/ x chocks but i never use them it seems stable enough.
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06-14-2019, 02:50 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Lanesboro, MN, between Whalan and Fountain, Minnesota
Trailer: 2016 Bigfoot 25RQ - (2018 Escape 5.0 sold)
Posts: 2,153
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A few trailers ago we purchased an Andersen jack block.
We now use this under one of our legs and six lego blocks under the other. Of course we wedge our tires to prevent the trailer from moving.
Enjoy,
Perry
__________________
Those who know everything use pens. Intelligent people use pencils.
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06-14-2019, 05:02 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emers382
Maybe I'll go for an F-250 next time. While getting oil changed at the dealer today I looked at a few trucks, the F-250s are no more than the F-150s, and full tow package with brake controller is included in all.
I wondered why John you said this about light blocks but then realized it's because of all the heavy stuff you carry
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Hi: emers382... The only would I carry now is on my shoulders. Then I guess you could say I am a "Block off the old chip". Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
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06-14-2019, 05:46 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
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After seeing them under Tom's (tdf-texas) 21, I purchased a set of Fastway One Step Chocks. I probably only needed one since I use it on the ground side of the trailer, and the other side is often on Anderson Levelers.
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06-14-2019, 06:37 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: WALNUT, California
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA The Glass Inn
Posts: 229
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A question to all using Anderson Levelers. Did they fit as purchased? When we picked up our 5.0 T.A. in May the first night at KOA in Lynden pulled out the shiny new Andersons they did not fit!! They were to long to fit between the tandem axles! What to do? I broke out a saw and cut off about 1 inch. They worked great after alteration.
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