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Old 09-18-2016, 06:46 AM   #11
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From RV Refrigerator Repair 101 https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguid...tor-repair.php


Works on 110 VDC but not on propane, then try this:
  • The first step is to determine if you have a good quality flame. If the flame lights but goes out almost immediately, the thermocouple which acknowledges the presence of a flame may have failed. This device is attached to the main gas valve at the back of the refrigerator and has a tube extending to the vicinity of the gas burner. In most instances, this can be replaced by an owner with some mechanical ability.
  • If the flame stays lit, the next issue is the quality of the flame. Often rust and debris will fall from the vent interfering with the burner system. I personally have experienced this problem twice, causing the burner not to light at all. To fix the problem only requires removing a minimal amount of tin shielding and then vacuuming the area around the burner thoroughly.
  • If the flame fails to light, vacuuming the burner area may clear the port (or jet) of the burner. Worst case scenario, run a very thin wire into the burner orifice to clear debris. Because a small steady flame may not be the proper flame, I recommend cleaning the area with a vacuum in every case of failure.
They have a Utube video showing how to clean the burner.
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:43 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Three years is a long time for a absorption unit to sit, although used via electric, if the trailer was not level that entire time, there could be a lot of issues. Hopefully you can fix them. Another reason to use propane and electric during your trial period to insure they are operational and install screening on your intake vents. Pests are pesky....
If you are speaking to me ,who let their refrigerator sit for 3 years ? Having your refrigerator level is basic knowledge for anyone who has ever owned RV's . Little hard to install screens on the refrigerator vent . Had them on and then found I needed to remove them on refrigerator vent for whatever reason and found refrigerator works much better .must be a reason for vent . Dog flea collar is a lot simpler to discourage spiders . And finally who wouldn't use their electric and gas . 12 volt is useless and always has been . Pat
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Old 09-18-2016, 10:54 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
From RV Refrigerator Repair 101 https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguid...tor-repair.php


Works on 110 VDC but not on propane, then try this:
  • The first step is to determine if you have a good quality flame. If the flame lights but goes out almost immediately, the thermocouple which acknowledges the presence of a flame may have failed. This device is attached to the main gas valve at the back of the refrigerator and has a tube extending to the vicinity of the gas burner. In most instances, this can be replaced by an owner with some mechanical ability.
  • If the flame stays lit, the next issue is the quality of the flame. Often rust and debris will fall from the vent interfering with the burner system. I personally have experienced this problem twice, causing the burner not to light at all. To fix the problem only requires removing a minimal amount of tin shielding and then vacuuming the area around the burner thoroughly.
  • If the flame fails to light, vacuuming the burner area may clear the port (or jet) of the burner. Worst case scenario, run a very thin wire into the burner orifice to clear debris. Because a small steady flame may not be the proper flame, I recommend cleaning the area with a vacuum in every case of failure.
They have a Utube video showing how to clean the burner.
Pardlin my advice was from a RV repairman and was very easy to do especially considering I was on the road . My flame would light and then go out and try to keep starting . He felt it was a blockage from my description . Pat
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:05 PM   #14
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Thanks to each of you for your thoughts. I agree that a blockage in the flue is likely by can't imagine what got in there? Once I do a little more investigating, I'll post my findings. Can't do a trial with 120V since my home owner's association sent me a "Nasty-gram" pointing out that RVs are allowed to be parked anywhere. Looks like I'll have to schedule a night in a local campground for this test.
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:20 PM   #15
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Can't do a trial with 120V since my home owner's association sent me a "Nasty-gram" pointing out that RVs are allowed to be parked anywhere. Looks like I'll have to schedule a night in a local campground for this test.
Rich,
With our HOA we've learned if we bring it over Fri nite or Sat morning when their offices are closed and get it back to storage before Mon morning we never hear from them...
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Old 09-18-2016, 12:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Thanks to each of you for your thoughts. I agree that a blockage in the flue is likely by can't imagine what got in there? Once I do a little more investigating, I'll post my findings. Can't do a trial with 120V since my home owner's association sent me a "Nasty-gram" pointing out that RVs are allowed to be parked anywhere. Looks like I'll have to schedule a night in a local campground for this test.
Good excuse to go camping.....
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:07 PM   #17
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I never thought about the refrigerator needing to be level while stored, only while set up in camp for operating. If unlevel when stored ruins it, some people who purposely do that should take note. There are those who have parked their trailers sloping down to get water off of the middle of the roof where it sits.
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Old 09-18-2016, 02:15 PM   #18
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I think as long as it is not in operation and off it can be unlevel, but it was mentioned that it had been used on 120v for 3 years and perhaps it was not level then?
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Zardoz View Post
Can't do a trial with 120V since my home owner's association sent me a "Nasty-gram" pointing out that RVs are allowed to be parked anywhere. Looks like I'll have to schedule a night in a local campground for this test.
12 volt operation would serve the same purpose, if you are willing to wait longer (lower-power heating element) and have enough battery capacity to handle a few hours.
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:35 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
From RV Refrigerator Repair 101 https://rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguid...tor-repair.php

Works on 110 VDC but not on propane....
That's supposed to be 110 VAC (and really should be 120 V AC). The typo is in the original article - it's not Bob's error.
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