Absorption Refrigeration Protective (ARP) Controller??? - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-23-2017, 09:00 AM   #1
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Absorption Refrigeration Protective (ARP) Controller???

I saw this article on RVDailyReport.com

I know it's more a press release kind of thing, but do yoi think the device has value?

ARVP offers solution to fridge fires | RV Daily Report
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Old 07-23-2017, 09:13 AM   #2
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I believe a owner/member here has already installed one?
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Old 07-23-2017, 09:17 AM   #3
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See here We installed a refrigerator protection device
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:16 AM   #4
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Absorption Refrigeration Protective (ARP) Controller???

Thanks Jim!
It appears from the comments that the new large fridges, like there one I'll have in my 5.0 TA already have dinner kind of over temperature shutoff device.
Rich
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:33 AM   #5
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We installed one, it is fairly easy to do. We attached the controller to the back of the refrigerator with velcro. Our refrigerator is the 5 cubic foot RM2554.
Why we installed it was to lower the risk of damage to the refrigerator and to hopefully increase its lifespan..
There are a few items that do not come with the kit. If you order the fan option you will need a 1 or 3/4 inch stainless steel hose clamp to attach the sensor. And you will need plastic tie wraps and a handful of fiberglass insulation.
The fan option works very well, the fan is set to come on at 120 F and off at 105F. And unlike the stock fan if you hold a wet finger at the upper vent you can feel the airflow. Also the fan does not have that high pitch whine that my wife finds annoying. The stock fan in ours never seemed to turn off so I leave it switched off. If we run into a situation where we need addition airflow I can turn it back on.
The ARP itself is set and forget. I have been checking a lot to see how it is doing and found while we were up in Franklin NC it shut the refrigerator down twice. There are some steep hills around there and lots of stop and go traffic. So we probably were way off level a few times.

There are a lot of other features to it that I did not need or may play with later. The only changes I made were to choose setting 4 for the fan temperature and changed the boiler temp to Fahrenheit.
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:42 AM   #6
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Thanks Jim!
It appears from the comments that the new large fridges, like there one I'll have in my 5.0 TA already have dinner kind of over temperature shutoff device.
Rich

Yes the larger fridges have a thermal disc and thermal fuse that will shut the fridge down if it overheats. Mine does not have any protection. The advantage to the ARP is if the boiler overheats, it shuts the unit down for 10 minutes then tries it again. Yours shuts it down and does not react as quick from what I have read.
I was originally debating installing a thermal fuse as it was a lot cheaper to do and decided to install the ARP controller instead.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:36 AM   #7
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fridge 21

is the fridge on21 different from the 19 .i thought we had that thermal fuse for overheating . I did not realize having fridge on, driving in mountains could cause overheating? jim from fl.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:37 AM   #8
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What's that expression, "I'm from Missouri" I read the PR hype and I'm not really convinced that I have to rush out and buy one.

It's my understanding that the older fridges needed more attention to being level than the newer ones. As for being damaged because of parking with the trailer over 6* off level, really, 6* means your coffee cup might slide off the table. In our style of travel, which is mostly stop, sleep, go we rarely detach or use the stabilizers. I might use a 2 x 10 under wheels on one side to get level to the "good enough" stage. But as for being 6* off level, never. As for being damaged by steep highway grades, well, of mountains, we've seen a few.

Anything that gives peace of mind is a good thing. But I'm just not that concerned about situations raised in the PR material.

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Old 07-23-2017, 11:50 AM   #9
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is the fridge on21 different from the 19 .i thought we had that thermal fuse for overheating . I did not realize having fridge on, driving in mountains could cause overheating? jim from fl.
Yes, the standard refer in the 21 is larger and has 2 doors, the stock one in the 19 is smaller with a single door. The larger one is available as an option. Five cubic foot vs 6 cubic feet, both 3 way.
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:08 PM   #10
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... As for being damaged because of parking with the trailer over 6* off level, really, 6* means your coffee cup might slide off the table. ...Ron
Not sure, that's why I'm asking, but doesn't that whole 6 degrees within level rule-of-thumb apply only to compressors (in whatever device) that are oil lubricated?
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Old 07-23-2017, 12:11 PM   #11
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Not sure, that's why I'm asking, but doesn't that whole 6 degrees within level rule-of-thumb apply only to compressors (in whatever device) that are oil lubricated?
No, in this case, it refers to older style fridges where the circulation of refrigerant was, for lack of a better word, stalled by being off level. A techie might phrase it differently.

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Old 07-23-2017, 12:17 PM   #12
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No, in this case, it refers to older style fridges where the circulation of refrigerant was, for lack of a better word, stalled by being off level. A techie might phrase it differently. Ron
If the refrigerant is under pressure, it seems that it would always go from an area of higher pressure to an area of lower pressure. So I'm not sure how or why it would "stall" when simply a few degrees off kilter. I obviously need to read/understand more about refrigeration!
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:16 PM   #13
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If the refrigerant is under pressure, it seems that it would always go from an area of higher pressure to an area of lower pressure. So I'm not sure how or why it would "stall" when simply a few degrees off kilter. I obviously need to read/understand more about refrigeration!
Yup, maybe "stall" isn't the right word, maybe "separate". There's lot's written about it in the past. But, with the newer fridges, it doesn't seem to be as critical.

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Old 07-23-2017, 01:20 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Yup, maybe "stall" isn't the right word, maybe "separate". There's lot's written about it in the past. But, with the newer fridges, it doesn't seem to be as critical.

Ron
Hi: Ron in BC... In my former Boler life, we used to refer to it as "Burp the fridge". Sometimes it was as extensive as remove the fridge and turn it upside down for 24 hrs and re install it!!! Alf
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:26 PM   #15
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Okay, so I'm sure there are other videos out there on how absorption refrigeration works, but this short one (2:27) seems to explain: 1) why being somewere near level is important, and 2) why the freezer compartment cools down faster and lower than the refrigerator compartment.
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Old 07-23-2017, 01:50 PM   #16
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From the Dometic service manual.

IMPORTANCE OF LEVELING A
REFRIGERATOR
In an absorption refrigerator system, ammonia is liquefied in the finned condenser coil at the top rear of the refrigerator. The liquid ammonia then flows into the evaporator (inside the freezer section) and is exposed to a circulating flow of hydrogen gas, which causes the ammonia to evaporate, creating a cold condition in the freezer. When starting this refrigerator for the very first time, the cooling cycle may require up to four hours of running time before the cooling unit is fully operational. The tubing in the evaporator section is specifically sloped to provide a continuous movement of liquid ammonia, flowing downward by gravity through this section. If the refrigerator is operated when it is not level and the vehicle is not moving, liquid ammonia will accumulate in sections of the evaporator tubing. This will slow the circulation of hydrogen and ammonia gas, or in severe cases, completely block it, resulting in a loss of cooling. Any time the vehicle is parked for several hours with the refrigerator operating, the vehicle should be leveled to prevent this loss of cooling. The vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls). When the vehicle is moving, the leveling is not critical, as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level, keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing.

When this loss of cooling happens circulation stops. The boiler then starts to heat up. But I suppose that is harmless.

And while I am at it. I remember someone either here or another site I frequent had to buy the orifice after they lost it and was shocked at the price. According to the service manual here is why it cost so much.
So note to self, do not lose the orifice

Orifice
The Dometic orifice is a brass alloy with a man-made ruby pressed in the center that has been laser-beam drilled in a spiral pattern. The orifice is cleaned by using an alcohol based solvent. Soak the orifice for approximately 1 hour and allow to air dry. Donít insert anything in the center of the orfice it will harm the man-made ruby. Donít use an air nozzle to blow thru the orifice as the ruby could be moved. Never over or under size the orifice on a Dometic refrigerator.
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Old 07-23-2017, 02:20 PM   #17
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Thanks all! Lots of good info.
Rich
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