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Old 10-04-2014, 03:40 PM   #81
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
If you upgraded to a 21' then maybe they can install the bigger refer before the two halves are joined, like they do with the bathroom enclosure.
Yeah, see post #71. I still think that'd be an issue in building out the interior, even on a 21. The fridge would have to be moved around alot, and anyone who's done construction in tight spaces knows it's a pain in the *** to do that. If it needed replacing in the future, it'd have to be torn apart to remove it. Not a biggie I suppose if it was going to be discarded anyway, but then the replacement would be limited to less than 22" width again.
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:42 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy View Post
Wow, I guess I'm surprised and then I'm not. Getting the size right can be a stumper. Only by running back and forth between the 19 and the 21 did we make our choice. Anyway, enjoy your trip to Chilliwack and remember. Seattle traffic sucks. Skiman wrote to me something about white knuckles on 405. Loren
Yeah, flying into Vancouver midweek, mid day, then driving to Chilliwack. Traffic shouldn't be too bad.
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:55 PM   #83
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As Dometic and Waeco seem to be linked or Waeco is part of Dometic, it would be interesting to know how ETI would view installing a Waeco unit.
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Old 10-04-2014, 03:55 PM   #84
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Maybe this will help. It is a listing of all the specs on Novakool units with sizes.

http://www.novakool.com/products/two...al2013_001.pdf

I noticed that the little brother of the R5810 model you were interested in is the R4500, 4.3 cuft and will fit. Take a look.
Steve, based on some of the feedback other folks have received from Reace, I think the NovaKool is a non-starter. That is unless, you want to install it yourself. I'll ask about it while I'm at ETI, but right now it doesn't look good.
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Old 10-04-2014, 04:10 PM   #85
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As Dometic and Waeco seem to be linked or Waeco is part of Dometic, it would be interesting to know how ETI would view installing a Waeco unit.
Worth a look. The CR140 is about 4.8 Cubic feet, and is only 20.66" wide. It's also Tropical rated.
From the Dometic site: Products - Dometic

And from the Waeco site, same fridge: WAECO CoolMatic CR 140 | My-Caravanning by Dometic GROUP
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Old 10-04-2014, 08:09 PM   #86
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Worth a look. The CR140 is about 4.8 Cubic feet, and is only 20.66" wide. It's also Tropical rated.
From the Dometic site: Products - Dometic

And from the Waeco site, same fridge: WAECO CoolMatic CR 140 | My-Caravanning by Dometic GROUP
I noticed that it will also slide right into the opening made for a Dometic 4.3 and fit well...very slight trim work around the unit once installed; exactly the same width, 0.6" shorter in height and 2.3" shallower in depth...a perfect slide-in replacement for the 4.3.
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Old 10-04-2014, 08:10 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Steve, based on some of the feedback other folks have received from Reace, I think the NovaKool is a non-starter. That is unless, you want to install it yourself. I'll ask about it while I'm at ETI, but right now it doesn't look good.
Please ask Reace what he thinks of Nova Kool and why. I surely would like to know since I'm considering a purchase.
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:41 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by Loren & Cathy View Post
Wow, I guess I'm surprised and then I'm not. Getting the size right can be a stumper. Only by running back and forth between the 19 and the 21 did we make our choice. . Loren
So on what did you pick the 21'?
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Old 10-04-2014, 10:45 PM   #89
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Hi Jim! 2 extra batteries is only 130 more pounds in the trailer. I had 4 up front in the box and pulled 2 out to try boon-docking with only 2. I can put the other 2 back in easily. If I go with the DC refer I will add the 2 back but may put them on the back bumper to keep the tongue weight down. However, the rear bumper on the 19' is too close to the trailer to put batteries in a box inside the bumper outline. If I did I would cut the bumper off and move it back a few inches then reattach it with steel platforms inside the outline for the batteries. I would probably run 4 gauge cable back up front. I'm not too worried about balancing amp loads because they are normally so small, however, I would probably take the rear set of batteries offline when I ran my 2500 watt inverter.
Steve, the four batteries were not there when you picked up, were they? Were you actually overweight with them up there? Are you able to run everything on solar with them without a problem?
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Old 10-04-2014, 11:24 PM   #90
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Steve, the four batteries were not there when you picked up, were they? Were you actually overweight with them up there? Are you able to run everything on solar with them without a problem?
I bought the 19 with 2 six volt batteries and added the other two myself. The drawback is that the tongue weight goes up a lot. I ran like this for 2 years with 2 solar panels with no problem but I wanted to try to run without a weight distribution hitch so I took two batteries out and added heavy coil springs and air lifts to my Honda Pilot and it pulls the 19 fine and level (no sag) without the extra batteries. Adding the 2 batteries will add 1/2 of sag to the back of the Honda. I'll put them back if needed.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:20 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
I bought the 19 with 2 six volt batteries and added the other two myself. The drawback is that the tongue weight goes up a lot. I ran like this for 2 years with 2 solar panels with no problem but I wanted to try to run without a weight distribution hitch so I took two batteries out and added heavy coil springs and air lifts to my Honda Pilot and it pulls the 19 fine and level (no sag) without the extra batteries. Adding the 2 batteries will add 1/2 of sag to the back of the Honda. I'll put them back if needed.
So then, opinions please: with an F-150 (non 4WD) and all 4 batteries in the bottom of the storage box, will I be better off with a WDH? ETI is of the opinion that a WDH is not needed when towing a 19 with an F150, but I would be adding 130 lbs to the tongue weight.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:26 AM   #92
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So then, opinions please: with an F-150 (non 4WD) and all 4 batteries in the bottom of the storage box, will I be better off with a WDH? ETI is of the opinion that a WDH is not needed when towing a 19 with an F150, but I would be adding 130 lbs to the tongue weight.
The basic point of a WD system is to relieve excessive rear axle load by shifting it to the front axle and trailer axle. How heavily will the F-150's rear axle be loaded? If you know the loads before adding the trailer, this is easy to calculate.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:32 AM   #93
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Steve, I am supposing you considered putting those two batteries in one of the benches. Back bumper is not the greatest since that could be more unstable than having them on the front. I take it you don't want to use a bench. One of the benches instead would help out the possible overweight situation.

Will be interested to see what you end up with. I like the idea of the four batteries and more solar. And no generators.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:35 AM   #94
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Actually, according to what I think Reace told me, only 100 more lbs. is supposed to be put in the box beyond the two batteries.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:41 AM   #95
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The basic point of a WD system is to relieve excessive rear axle load by shifting it to the front axle and trailer axle. How heavily will the F-150's rear axle be loaded? If you know the loads before adding the trailer, this is easy to calculate.
Yes Brian, I fully understand the purpose of a WDH. Without the extra two batteries, the tongue weight should be in the 360-370 lb range. adding two batteries brings the tongue weight up to 490-500 lbs. That won't be 'excessive' according to the capacities published by Ford. It's probable that a WDH is still not 'needed' even with the two extra batteries on the tongue, but my question was more along the lines of 'would I feel a positive difference' rather than 'is it needed'.
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:42 AM   #96
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Actually, according to what I think Reace told me, only 100 more lbs. is supposed to be put in the box beyond the two batteries.
Good point - everything has a load limit. Did Reace mention whether this was a limitation of the box structure, or of how much load should be placed in that position on the tongue?
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Old 10-05-2014, 12:49 AM   #97
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Yes Brian, I fully understand the purpose of a WDH. Without the extra two batteries, the tongue weight should be in the 360-370 lb range. adding two batteries brings the tongue weight up to 490-500 lbs. That won't be 'excessive' according to the capacities published by Ford. It's probable that a WDH is still not 'needed' even with the two extra batteries on the tongue, but my question was more along the lines of 'would I feel a positive difference' rather than 'is it needed'.
I think the answer depends on how much other load is also on the rear axle: 500 lb of hitch weight and an empty box will feel different from 500 lb of hitch weight and half a ton of gear in the box with the rear suspension at its limit. A truck with roughly even load distribution between front and rear axles will feel different from one that is significantly rear-heavy. That's why I was wondering about the load before adding the trailer.
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Old 10-05-2014, 05:15 AM   #98
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rbryan4,
You can always add a WDH later if you get much rear end sag or feel the front end wander. I had an Equalizer WDH on my last trailer, 3700 lbs, 600+ lbs on the tongue. I needed it when I had a Ranger which sagged something awful. When I went to a GMC 1/2T I no longer needed it for the WD, but used it anyway just for the sway control it provided.
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:36 AM   #99
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I don't think the 100lb limit on the box is a concern. That's intended as a limit for loose stuff that might move around while braking or cornering -- fiberglass just isn't strong enough to take that kind of abuse. But I assume the batteries are fixed in place and rest on the frame. (at least in our 19 with a single battery, the battery can't shift around -- I've never looked to see how it's held in place though).
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Old 10-05-2014, 10:44 AM   #100
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Steve, I am supposing you considered putting those two batteries in one of the benches. Back bumper is not the greatest since that could be more unstable than having them on the front. I take it you don't want to use a bench. One of the benches instead would help out the possible overweight situation.

Will be interested to see what you end up with. I like the idea of the four batteries and more solar. And no generators.
2 years ago, when I wanted to put two more batteries in I noticed that the heavy wooden, glassed-in support in the bottom of the front box was long enough for 2 more batteries. Moving them back to the benches wouldn't lower the weight very much and would have required sealed boxes and cutting through the trailer for venting. I didn't consider that a good option. I know I went over the specified weight limit in the front box but I'm an engineer and looked it over carefully and saw no problem. I then ran that way camping over 2 dozen times for two years without a problem so so I know it works. However, if I put the 2 batteries back they are more than likely going on the rear bumper. Since I am at around 3800 lbs total weight and 420 lbs tongue weight, putting 130 lbs on the rear bumper will in no way affect stability.
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