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Old 08-19-2014, 04:33 PM   #41
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Don't apologize...all suggestions/comments welcome! In this case, on one of the CPAP machines, we were able to get an indicator light on the CPAP transformer (?) but apparently not enough juice to actually turn the CPAP on....and the fit seemed ok and we repositioned it and jiggled it around to see if there was a problem with the fit. Perhaps there is a minimum voltage required before the machine can fire up...
I just looked on my outlet and it specifies a maximum of 8 amps. Does your machine draw more than that? As to devices that fit it, I used 12 v chargers for all computer stuff; the tv and an Endless Breeze by Fantastic. All of them work fine but all draw way less than 8 amps.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:40 PM   #42
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Indeed...that's the best route but how in the heck do you get the wiring from the back of the trailer to the front of the trailer without hanging exposed wiring from the walls/ceiling?!?!
We just looked at the back of the fuse box...holy cow! Unless there is some magic way to get in there it looks like you have to disconnect a whole lot of scary stuff to get expose the back of the fuse box. We are exploring a tap off the landing gear wiring now. Will post pictures and questions in a few minutes.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:51 PM   #43
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8 amps @ 12VDC = 96 watts; is there a sticker on the CPAP with a wattage? Most car-type 12V lighter sockets are rated at 10 or 15 amps........
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:54 PM   #44
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Fran and Dave, since you have an '08 5.0 it is probably alot like our 2010 5.0 in that it has a 2 way fridge. We have 110 outlets at the foot of the bed on each side. Can you go into the closet and cupboard and install a 12v outlet at the foot of the bed next to the 110 outlets. We have an overhead light under the cupboard on the passenger side. That would be a 12V source. You may be able to remove some of the trim over the bed opening to get to the closet on the drivers side. Any piece of trim with those buttons on them have screws underneath and can therefore be temporarily removed.

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Old 08-19-2014, 04:56 PM   #45
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Fran and Dave, since you have an '08 5.0 it is probably alot like our 2010 5.0 in that it has a 2 way fridge. We have 110 outlets at the foot of the bed on each side. Can you go into the closet and cupboard and install a 12v outlet at the foot of the bed next to the 110 outlets. We have an overhead light under the cupboard on the passenger side. That would be a 12V source. You may be able to remove some of the trim over the bed opening to get to the closet on the drivers side. Any piece of trim with those buttons on them have screws underneath and can therefore be temporarily removed.

Mark
Thanks - we tried to do exactly that - used the light by the door and went through the cabinet over the pantry, but the CPAP's apparently did not get enough juice to fire up that way. We were able to get a phone charger to work on the outlet we added that way, but not the CPAP machine.
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Old 08-19-2014, 04:57 PM   #46
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8 amps @ 12VDC = 96 watts; is there a sticker on the CPAP with a wattage? Most car-type 12V lighter sockets are rated at 10 or 15 amps........
This is what the CPAP manual says:
"DC Power Consumption: 12 VDC, 6.67 A"
The other CPAP is 5 A.
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:00 PM   #47
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I had 12V drops installed in all overhead cabinets for adding lighting; didn't think about it being a source for CPAP power at the time......but it could be for future build sheets filler-outers..........
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Old 08-19-2014, 05:57 PM   #48
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OK, here is the wiring for the landing gear...we'd like some help in sorting out where we should splice in 12v wiring for the CPAPs.

There is a 2 rocker switch panel for the landing gear which we unscrewed from the wall. One rocker for each landing gear. Behind the panel, for each rocker switch, there is a connector box with 4 terminals...2 terminals on top and 2 terminals below. Thus there are a total of 2 connector boxes and 8 terminals in all.
The top two terminals on each box are wired with a yellow and red and yellow and red in that order reading from the hatch opening towards the interior of the hatch.

The bottom two terminals are a little more complicated.
The first bottom terminal on the first box has a black wire going to the first bottom terminal on the 2nd box. Where that black wire goes into the 2nd box, it is joined by another black wire from inside the wall.
The 2nd bottom terminal on the first box, has a black and a red wire coming from inside the wall.
The 2nd bottom terminal on the 2nd box has a single black wire coming from inside the wall.
Note that the Red and Yellow pairs of wires seem to go to the top of the landing gear mechanism for each side of the trailer.

We THINK that the wires we want to splice into are the black & red pair coming into the first box, bottom, 2nd terminal.
I've attached drawings of the wiring (crude) and some photos.
I also included a photo of the back of our fuse box...we are really not anxious to try and undo all of that to get in and add a new line!
And thank you to everyone for your continued input and advice!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg back of converter box.jpg (187.4 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Overview of wiring.jpg (169.5 KB, 8 views)
File Type: jpg View from above.jpg (288.4 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg view from underneath.jpg (199.6 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Bottom Terminals.jpg (114.8 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Top Terminals.jpg (131.7 KB, 6 views)
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:04 PM   #49
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Because push-on spade terminals are used, you can pull them off and check for incoming 12V+ from the battery to the switches with a meter or test light. You may (or may not) have a local ground available, though. You'll want to measure between ground and the terminal you pull off.
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Old 08-19-2014, 06:52 PM   #50
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They are Atwood units:
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/...%203.14.08.pdf

The wiring colors match the Atwood direct drive wires.

I *think* you have the correct wires. To at least partly verify this:
1) Voltage between the 2 you want should be 12V (bottom 2 - box 1)
2) Voltage between the corresponding ones on the other box should also be 12V (bottom 2 - box 2) and the polarity should be the same
3) Look at the front of the fuse box - you should have 1 or 2 fuses for the jacks.
IF 1 Remove it, voltages in steps 1 and 2 above should be 0
IF 2 - remove 1 - one set of voltages should be 0, the other should be 12, replace 1 and remove the other - the voltages should now be 12 and 0.

This is not a complete test but if it checks out I would go for it.

I suggest you plug the outlet directly to the spades (remove from switch noting which goes where) and see if the CPAP works.
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