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Old 09-05-2015, 04:25 PM   #11
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There are no rubber dust caps on the adjusting slots on newer 19 ft trailers, look for open slots.
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Old 09-05-2015, 04:54 PM   #12
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Hello Roberto,
Thanks for the info. I will try to look thru the two opening slots on the bottom of the brake backing plate. I did look at one opening and saw the the spring, but no adjusting wheels. I will check the other opening tomorrow.

Tonny LR
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:28 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
Hello Roberto,
Thanks for the info. I will try to look thru the two opening slots on the bottom of the brake backing plate. I did look at one opening and saw the the spring, but no adjusting wheels. I will check the other opening tomorrow.

Tonny LR
The adjusting wheel is almost impossible to see. You must feel for it and it is low in the slot. Interesting on our 15, the wheel is in the forward slot on the driver's side and in the rear slot on the passenger side. (Just did this two days ago.)
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:35 PM   #14
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Although I'd encourage you to use a small flashlight and get in close and wiggle around until you see the adjuster. I think once you see it it's easier to visulise what's happening as you do your adjustment. Once you get that "feel" for it you'll be able to easily do it in the future without being able to see it.

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Old 09-05-2015, 07:23 PM   #15
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Adjusting brakes

Once you feel the wheel with the tip of your adjusting tool or screwdriver you can start to flip it a couple of notches at a time. Thewheel, riding across the spring, will make a noise like sproing sproing sproing and shortly your brake drum will be tight to the shoes. From there you back it off ( go the other way) till it just barely hits the high spots on the drum which is probably not perfectly round.'when you spin the wheel. It will now make a sound like,'Ching Ching Ching as it hits the high/low spots. This should be be about right to now apply the brakes and stop the wheel from spinning, when you spin it by hand. It's a bit of an I exact science but you'll get the hang of it. Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:28 PM   #16
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It will now make a sound like,'Ching Ching Ching as it hits the high/low spots. This should be be about right to now apply the brakes and stop the wheel from spinning, when you spin it by hand. It's a bit of an I exact science but you'll get the hang of it. Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
Dave
Dave, thanks a ton for posting this explanation. I adjusted my brakes after 300 miles and, at the time, didn't know about the "high spots." That's exactly what I heard, and decided it must be okay, but "imperfectly round" didn't occur to me. Makes complete sense, and now I have more confidence next time I adjust (due now!). Thanks again!
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:34 PM   #17
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Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
Dave

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Old 09-05-2015, 07:43 PM   #18
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Thank you everyone for the input. I am now confident as to how to adjusting brakes, and will feel very comfort with the result when I hear the proper noises.
I appreciated everyone's responses.

Tonny LR
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:48 PM   #19
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Drums and shoes

Back when I was coming up, all the brakes were drum and shoe type. Heck I remember my Dad adjusting mechanicals on some old cars out of the 20s that were still in service. Anyway; it was common to get the drums turned on a brake lathe then to smooth them up and get them round. Some shops would also grind the new shoes to "arc"'them to the drum for maximum contact. That was a full brake job in those days. Late 50s and early 60s. A lot of the lathes were made in my home town of Cedar Rapids. Can you imagine the asbestos those guys sucked into their already World War II damaged lungs?
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:51 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Hi Sandra

I also have a Prodigy, don't use the boost feature our trailers aren't heavy enough.

The reason for the back up problem is you have to put the to vehicle in reverse
and then with your foot on the brake hold down the boost button until the
display shows "r" that locks the brakes off and you can proceed to back up
with no problems.

Hope this helps
I used to always do this but found at the worst possible time that the boost button does not seem to be all that robust. When leaving the North Oregon Coast at 5:30am one Sunday morning, planning to drive home to BC, I found that the button would not work any more and to make matters worse the controller was stuck on "r". Had to drive all the way home with no trailer brakes as nothing was open and we needed to get home by noon ...... not fun especially through Seattle. Now I just pull the cord before reversing.

Barry
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