Adjusting Brakes

Edgar · 08-08-2009, 09:46 PM

Hi,

I’m trying to fix my squeaky wheel issue. Reace suggested adjusting the brakes. It’s supposed to be done after 300 miles.

Are we supposed to get a Dexter Manual in the documentation package that explains brake adjustment and wheel bearing greasing? Is it available on-line? Should I contact Tammy?

Adjusting the brakes seems easy. Remove the dust cap. Stick a screwdriver in there to turn the adjustment wheel tighter or loser. Spin the drum and listen for sounds… Any advice from folks who’ve done it? How do you get the drum off (to look for broken springs)?

Edgar
Escape 19’

PGDriver · 08-08-2009, 10:09 PM

Hi Edgar, I found this and was going to adjust mine next week....

Brakes should be adjusted after the first 200 miles
of operation when the brake shoes and drums have
“seated” and at 3000 mile intervals, or as use and
performance requires. The brakes should be adjusted
in the following manner:

1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity
jack stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations
for lifting and supporting the unit. Check that
the wheel and drum rotate freely.
WARNING Do not lift or support trailer on any
part of the axle or the suspension system.

2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the adjusting
slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate.

3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate
the starwheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the
brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the
pressure of the linings against the drum makes the
wheel very difficult to turn.
Note:With drop spindle axles, a modified adjusting tool
with about an 80 degree angle should be used.

4. Then rotate the starwheel in the opposite direction
until the wheel turns freely with a slight lining drag.

5. Replace the adjusting hole cover and lower the
wheel to the ground.

6. Repeat the above procedure on all brakes.
WARNING Never crawl under your trailer unless
it is resting on properly placed jack stands.
Follow the trailer manufacturers recommendations
for lifting and supporting the unit. Do not lift or place
supports on any part of the suspension system.
**Note: Trailer Brake Adjustment procedures courtesy
Dexter Axle.

Bruce Wray · 08-09-2009, 01:36 PM

My plan B -- Tow to trusted local RV shop, get brakes adjusted, pay $42, go camping.

Bruce

Edgar · 08-09-2009, 09:16 PM

Thanks Doug. I looked all over the Dexter website but couldn't find the instructions.

After trying to adjust the starwheel it still squeaked. So I took the brakedrum off to make sure everything was intact. Found the axle bearings for the springtime greasing. Jiggled all the brake parts inside the hub. Looks like it gets lubricated by brake dust. Got it all back together and it was as quiet as the other wheel. Hopefully it'll stay quiet.

Edgar

Sandra L · 08-10-2009, 07:09 PM

Hi all,
Has anyone had a back-up situation wherein the trailer brakes hold and it takes extra force to get the trailer to move? Mine seems to hold then kind of "jumps" when the additional force (by giving more gas) is applied, but once that happens it is OK backing up. It just appears that there is the initial difficulty. I have shut off the "boost" from the Prodigy, but that has made no difference. I as told that the magnetic force is what is keeping it from backing up smoothly. I would welcome comments and advice.

Thanks

PGDriver · 08-10-2009, 08:56 PM

Hi Sandra

I also have a Prodigy, don't use the boost feature our trailers aren't heavy enough.

The reason for the back up problem is you have to put the to vehicle in reverse
and then with your foot on the brake hold down the boost button until the
display shows "r" that locks the brakes off and you can proceed to back up
with no problems.

Hope this helps

Edgar · 08-10-2009, 10:26 PM

Sandra,

It's really interesting how the brakes engage. Figured it out when I opened the brake drum. The mechanical arms and leverage direction of the brakes are designed work soothly in the forward direction but catch and engage very easily in the reverse direction. Doug is right about engaging the brake while putting the tow vehicle in reverse. When you release the pedal slowly the trailer wheel rolls backwards keeping the brake somewhat engaged. It's designed to do this (unfortunately) because of the direction of the engagement arm.

But it won't damage anything so don't worry. The best thing is not to riide the brakes when backing up. Take your foot completely off the brake pedal when backing. Then the trailer brakes will dis-engage faster. Stick shift tow vehicles need not be concerned because your foot must come completely off the brake pedal to back up.

When you re-grease the bearing then remove the brake drum and check it out. Very interesting!

Edgar

Sandra L · 08-11-2009, 09:42 AM

Thanks guys,
That helps a lot. I'm going to take mine in to a local trailer place for the recommended adjustment.

Hokie Escape · 08-11-2009, 09:48 AM

That's my favorite solution too!

Tonny LR · 09-05-2015, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Hi Edgar, I found this and was going to adjust mine next week....

Brakes should be adjusted after the first 200 miles
of operation when the brake shoes and drums have
“seated” and at 3000 mile intervals, or as use and
performance requires. The brakes should be adjusted
in the following manner:

1. Jack up trailer and secure on adequate capacity
jack stands. Follow trailer manufacturers recommendations
for lifting and supporting the unit. Check that
the wheel and drum rotate freely.
WARNING Do not lift or support trailer on any
part of the axle or the suspension system.

2. Remove the adjusting hole cover from the adjusting
slot on the bottom of the brake backing plate.

3. With a screwdriver or standard adjusting tool, rotate
the starwheel of the adjuster assembly to expand the
brake shoes. Adjust the brake shoes out until the
pressure of the linings against the drum makes the
wheel very difficult to turn.
Note:With drop spindle axles, a modified adjusting tool
with about an 80 degree angle should be used.

4. Then rotate the starwheel in the opposite direction
until the wheel turns freely with a slight lining drag.

5. Replace the adjusting hole cover and lower the
wheel to the ground.

6. Repeat the above procedure on all brakes.
WARNING Never crawl under your trailer unless
it is resting on properly placed jack stands.
Follow the trailer manufacturers recommendations
for lifting and supporting the unit. Do not lift or place
supports on any part of the suspension system.
**Note: Trailer Brake Adjustment procedures courtesy
Dexter Axle.

Hello Doug,
I have a 2014 Escape 19 Ft trailer. I am having difficulty locating the adjusting slot covered with rubber dust cap on the bottom of the brake backing plate. Does the newer Escape come with self adjusting electric drum brakes?. Thanks.

Tonny LR

Roberto · 09-05-2015, 03:25 PM

There are no rubber dust caps on the adjusting slots on newer 19 ft trailers, look for open slots.

Tonny LR · 09-05-2015, 03:54 PM

Hello Roberto,
Thanks for the info. I will try to look thru the two opening slots on the bottom of the brake backing plate. I did look at one opening and saw the the spring, but no adjusting wheels. I will check the other opening tomorrow.

Tonny LR

techfan · 09-05-2015, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

Hello Roberto,
Thanks for the info. I will try to look thru the two opening slots on the bottom of the brake backing plate. I did look at one opening and saw the the spring, but no adjusting wheels. I will check the other opening tomorrow.

Tonny LR

The adjusting wheel is almost impossible to see. You must feel for it and it is low in the slot. Interesting on our 15, the wheel is in the forward slot on the driver's side and in the rear slot on the passenger side. (Just did this two days ago.)

Ron in BC · 09-05-2015, 05:35 PM

Although I'd encourage you to use a small flashlight and get in close and wiggle around until you see the adjuster. I think once you see it it's easier to visulise what's happening as you do your adjustment. Once you get that "feel" for it you'll be able to easily do it in the future without being able to see it.

Ron

Iowa Dave · 09-05-2015, 06:23 PM

Once you feel the wheel with the tip of your adjusting tool or screwdriver you can start to flip it a couple of notches at a time. Thewheel, riding across the spring, will make a noise like sproing sproing sproing and shortly your brake drum will be tight to the shoes. From there you back it off ( go the other way) till it just barely hits the high spots on the drum which is probably not perfectly round.'when you spin the wheel. It will now make a sound like,'Ching Ching Ching as it hits the high/low spots. This should be be about right to now apply the brakes and stop the wheel from spinning, when you spin it by hand. It's a bit of an I exact science but you'll get the hang of it. Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
Dave

drpaddle · 09-05-2015, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

It will now make a sound like,'Ching Ching Ching as it hits the high/low spots. This should be be about right to now apply the brakes and stop the wheel from spinning, when you spin it by hand. It's a bit of an I exact science but you'll get the hang of it. Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
Dave

Dave, thanks a ton for posting this explanation. I adjusted my brakes after 300 miles and, at the time, didn't know about the "high spots." That's exactly what I heard, and decided it must be okay, but "imperfectly round" didn't occur to me. Makes complete sense, and now I have more confidence next time I adjust (due now!). Thanks again!

Ron in BC · 09-05-2015, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Two new Webster words, sproing sproing sproing and Ching Ching Ching.'and boom you're there.
Dave

Ron

Tonny LR · 09-05-2015, 06:43 PM

Thank you everyone for the input. I am now confident as to how to adjusting brakes, and will feel very comfort with the result when I hear the proper noises.
I appreciated everyone's responses.

Tonny LR

Iowa Dave · 09-05-2015, 06:48 PM

Back when I was coming up, all the brakes were drum and shoe type. Heck I remember my Dad adjusting mechanicals on some old cars out of the 20s that were still in service. Anyway; it was common to get the drums turned on a brake lathe then to smooth them up and get them round. Some shops would also grind the new shoes to "arc"'them to the drum for maximum contact. That was a full brake job in those days. Late 50s and early 60s. A lot of the lathes were made in my home town of Cedar Rapids. Can you imagine the asbestos those guys sucked into their already World War II damaged lungs?
Dave

barry · 09-05-2015, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PGDriver

Hi Sandra

I also have a Prodigy, don't use the boost feature our trailers aren't heavy enough.

The reason for the back up problem is you have to put the to vehicle in reverse
and then with your foot on the brake hold down the boost button until the
display shows "r" that locks the brakes off and you can proceed to back up
with no problems.

Hope this helps

I used to always do this but found at the worst possible time that the boost button does not seem to be all that robust. When leaving the North Oregon Coast at 5:30am one Sunday morning, planning to drive home to BC, I found that the button would not work any more and to make matters worse the controller was stuck on "r". Had to drive all the way home with no trailer brakes as nothing was open and we needed to get home by noon ...... not fun especially through Seattle. Now I just pull the cord before reversing.

Barry

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